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Kibokojoe
01-11-2007, 08:57 AM
I am having a problem with the wires in the heater blower circuit overheating. I have pulled the blower and it still spins but only about one revolution by hand. Is this typical or do I have a problem? Anyone ever pulled one of these motors apart and rebuilt it? The squirel cages are a press fit and seem pretty fragile. Also the motor does't appear to be rebuildable.

The sword was replaced last summer.

I also notice that the car always blow hot air but I believe this is a stuck heater valve.

I just bought this car so I am a newbee to BMW's but I know how to turn a wrench.

Let me know

Thanks

Morgenster
01-11-2007, 11:25 AM
Only blowing hot air would definitely mean stuck heater valve unless voltage is constantly zero on it's terminals. So check voltage there first.

What do you mean with being able to 'turn the blower motor one revolution by hand'?

Kibokojoe
01-11-2007, 01:43 PM
Only blowing hot air would definitely mean stuck heater valve unless voltage is constantly zero on it's terminals. So check voltage there first.

What do you mean with being able to 'turn the blower motor one revolution by hand'?

I mean when I spin the squirel cage by hand it only rotates about one revolution.

I now have the motor apart and am inspecting the parts. I have pulled the bearings which were more or less stuck on the shaft. I polished the armiture shaft and they now spin nicely. One question though are the bushing suppose to spin within themselves. It looks like the bushings are made in two pieces. An outer and and inner race. Are these suppose to spin? Because they do not.

Ross
01-11-2007, 02:31 PM
Replace the motor, even if you've freed it up and polished the shaft it won't last long. Unless you don't mind doing it again.

Kibokojoe
01-12-2007, 09:54 AM
Replace the motor, even if you've freed it up and polished the shaft it won't last long. Unless you don't mind doing it again.

Where is a good place to purchase one?

Ken

632 Regal
01-12-2007, 10:12 AM
http://www.autohausaz.com/

Ross
01-12-2007, 11:42 AM
2nd that. Just bought an MB one w/o the cages for $85 from there. Genuine Bosch, worked fine.

Bill R.
01-12-2007, 11:55 AM
BMA and i get the parts the next morning typically
Here (http://www.bmaparts.com/epcvsoapimc.epc?cookieID=1ZP0PHD2N1ZP0PHMQQ&drillid=8&subcatid=801059@@Heater&clientid=bmaparts)

193 online price and Patrick usually sells it cheaper to me than that, compared to 199 from autohausaz.com




http://www.autohausaz.com/

Kibokojoe
01-12-2007, 01:00 PM
2nd that. Just bought an MB one w/o the cages for $85 from there. Genuine Bosch, worked fine.

I have contacted them about get the motor only. The cages I have are just fine. Did you have any problems matching the new shaft to the old cages?

Bill R.
01-12-2007, 01:08 PM
get those old cages on and off ;)




I have contacted them about get the motor only. The cages I have are just fine. Did you have any problems matching the new shaft to the old cages?

Ross
01-12-2007, 05:57 PM
Here's the deal with buying the motor only. The cages are plastic and old so you need to be very careful.
My experience went like this, MB in my case, but essentially same thing.
The cages are an "interference" or press fit and the shaft has likely rusted to complicate matters. Perhaps I was just lucky but it worked for me with some patience.
The cages are on tight but one is always tighter than the other so by roating them in opposing directions I was able to break one free. Use penetrating oil and wipe off whatever rust you can from any part of the shaft extending past the cage. By working it back and forth while puliing GENTLY I was able to wiggle one off. Now a vise grip on the shaft of the side you just removed the cage from and repeat the process.
It's a bit of time and I wouldn't bother if it were a paying job, but as it was my own car and the difference in price for the motor with and w/o the cages was BIG the time spent was worthwhile.
Good luck,
Ross

Kibokojoe
01-13-2007, 09:51 AM
Here's the deal with buying the motor only. The cages are plastic and old so you need to be very careful.
My experience went like this, MB in my case, but essentially same thing.
The cages are an "interference" or press fit and the shaft has likely rusted to complicate matters. Perhaps I was just lucky but it worked for me with some patience.
The cages are on tight but one is always tighter than the other so by roating them in opposing directions I was able to break one free. Use penetrating oil and wipe off whatever rust you can from any part of the shaft extending past the cage. By working it back and forth while puliing GENTLY I was able to wiggle one off. Now a vise grip on the shaft of the side you just removed the cage from and repeat the process.
It's a bit of time and I wouldn't bother if it were a paying job, but as it was my own car and the difference in price for the motor with and w/o the cages was BIG the time spent was worthwhile.
Good luck,
Ross

Ross I managed to drive mine off using a flat round punch and a modified wrench that slid over the shaft and supported the bottom of the cage. I sprayed the shaft with PB Blaster and after a couple of good wacks it they dropped off. Thanks for the input

Ken

Kibokojoe
01-13-2007, 08:16 PM
2nd that. Just bought an MB one w/o the cages for $85 from there. Genuine Bosch, worked fine.

Ross where did you buy your motor only?

Thanks

Ken

Kibokojoe
02-19-2007, 04:53 PM
Ross
You said you got a MB replacement motor for the heater what is mB?

Thanks

cfsboy@sbcglobal.net


Ken


Here's the deal with buying the motor only. The cages are plastic and old so you need to be very careful.
My experience went like this, MB in my case, but essentially same thing.
The cages are an "interference" or press fit and the shaft has likely rusted to complicate matters. Perhaps I was just lucky but it worked for me with some patience.
The cages are on tight but one is always tighter than the other so by roating them in opposing directions I was able to break one free. Use penetrating oil and wipe off whatever rust you can from any part of the shaft extending past the cage. By working it back and forth while puliing GENTLY I was able to wiggle one off. Now a vise grip on the shaft of the side you just removed the cage from and repeat the process.
It's a bit of time and I wouldn't bother if it were a paying job, but as it was my own car and the difference in price for the motor with and w/o the cages was BIG the time spent was worthwhile.
Good luck,
Ross