Sorry if i'm annoying everyone with excessive

[Bill R.]

posting this weekend, but I'm sick and bored so i'm posting... I have a cabriolet waiting for me tomorrow though so i won't be around to bug anybody then.

[Jr ///M5]

You could come here and we would "freeze-dry" those germs right out of you....and get some shoveling exercise too!

[Gayle]

Bill

I love it that someone else does that too, especially someone of your stature. When I am on a detailing binge or some other work binge, I end up having to comment on everything, and then I get embarrassed at being a post whore. This thread makes my day.

[Bill R.]

have been talking about the "heart attack" snows you guys are getting..
I had to turn the fireplace on last night here, it was a frosty 38f




You could come here and we would "freeze-dry" those germs right out of you....and get some shoveling exercise too!

[Dash01]

First, I'm sorry you're sick. Try this: Double shot of tequilla, some honey, and lemonade in a mug. Microwave piping hot. Stir and drink in front of the fire, preferably in company of a good dog. Repeat as necessary. Add Mexican food with jalopenos if really sick.

Now for the question: 5/16" bolts are seized in the aluminum thermostat housing of my old Ford. (Actually it's the alu. intake manifold flange that mates with the alu. thermostat housing.) The heads sheared off, despite plentiful PB Blaster, etc. and counter-torquing. I suspect electrolitic reaction fused the steel bolts to the aluminum housing. Easy-out not an option, since it would risk breaking off and compounding the problem. I've tried drilling out the bolt shafts with cobalt bits, which hardly do anything, even with cutting fluid appliedl. Diamond ball bits on Dremel tool work much better, but not well enough. I have not (yet) tried heating the work with a propane torch, for safety reasons. What sort of bit would be best to drill out the cat. 5 steel bolt shafts? Other ideas?

[Bill R.]

sounds like yours have, since grade 5 is usually not that bad to drill... then I would go with your second idea of a dremel but I use a dumore flex shaft instead that will take 1/4 inch shank carbide grinding ball mills. The dremel will have the same result ,it will just take a lot longer and a lot more patience. I think your right about it being electrolytically fused to the aluminum and you'll probably be grinding it out completely and helicoiling or tapping oversize




First, I'm sorry you're sick. Try this: Double shot of tequilla, some honey, and lemonade in a mug. Microwave piping hot. Stir and drink in front of the fire, preferably in company of a good dog. Repeat as necessary. Add Mexican food with jalopenos if really sick.

Now for the question: 5/16" bolts are seized in the aluminum thermostat housing of my old Ford. (Actually it's the alu. intake manifold flange that mates with the alu. thermostat housing.) The heads sheared off, despite plentiful PB Blaster, etc. and counter-torquing. I suspect electrolitic reaction fused the steel bolts to the aluminum housing. Easy-out not an option, since it would risk breaking off and compounding the problem. I've tried drilling out the bolt shafts with cobalt bits, which hardly do anything, even with cutting fluid appliedl. Diamond ball bits on Dremel tool work much better, but not well enough. I have not (yet) tried heating the work with a propane torch, for safety reasons. What sort of bit would be best to drill out the cat. 5 steel bolt shafts? Other ideas?

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

one of the least annoying posters.

I know I always go straight to your reply on any question, and bypass all the Regurgitaters and misinformation masters

[632 Regal]

I can usually drill out any hardened steel bolt bits left in. that aluminum/steel superglue effect is awesome, too bad it didnt work on oil pumps and banjo bolts :D drill it the best you can cause you wont be able to remove it by turning as you mentioned. Once I drill them out softof accurate, I pick the threads out a little at a time, they are definetly bonded. Last one I did took about an hour just to pick the threads out.

edit: sure them bits your using are sharp?

[632 Regal]

I wondered why you were posting more... hope you feel better in your cold snap of 38 degrees...sheesh.

for colds, actually for the past few years I have been taking biocyanidins (1x a day) 1000mg vit C (2x) and grape seed (2x) had two colds in the interum and those were gone in a day. When I feel a cold comming on I double up on these. Havent needed a doc in 4 years.

ps, Bill, did you ever see snow in real life? (videos and movies dont count).


posting this weekend, but I'm sick and bored so i'm posting... I have a cabriolet waiting for me tomorrow though so i won't be around to bug anybody then.

[Traian]

Your posts are great!

[shogun]

If you are too bored, help out here
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/e32/page/0


BTW: I just 'borrowed' your fan clutch info for there :D

[winfred]

ditto on the sharp bits, cobalt bits usually blaze through just about everything short of serious hardened steel, remember cobalts are a low speed bit and will burn out at average drill speeds, a cordless drill is about ideal, just watch for bit walk that it doesn't get out of hand and get your hole too off center to use with a helicoil.

on colds what i've found working for me the last couple years i alternate 2k mg of vitamin C and a couple multi vitamins in the mornings, C's one morning and multi's the next, since i've started doing that when i eventually do catch something i whip it's ass in short order, while everybody around me is dieing with the **** i just have the snots a couple days.

weather, supposed to hit 28 tonight and tomorrow night and 25 tuesday night, glad after a month with no heat the bastard finally came and fixed the heat pump, **** i hate heat pumps, especially this mongoloid air to ground weird bastard, next house i am building the system from scratch myself

[Jr ///M5]

Heat pumps suck....thermo heat pumps suck too....it's safe to say that all heat pumps suck.

Build a fire and burn something winfred...stay warm.

[winfred]

i've got 3 fire places and they all suck, literally, they exchange whatever heat that's in the house for smoke and a little radiant heat (another wonderful design, i don't think they got something right like flue size or the deflector plate or something), that's displaced by the cold air that gets in when you open the door for more wood, the one in the living room i made better with a snazzy set of doors a couple years ago but i still don't think it's worth the bother, mom seems to like it though


Heat pumps suck....thermo heat pumps suck too....it's safe to say that all heat pumps suck.

Build a fire and burn something winfred...stay warm.

[Zeuk in Oz]

posting this weekend, but I'm sick and bored so i'm posting... I have a cabriolet waiting for me tomorrow though so i won't be around to bug anybody then.
Sorry to hear you are unwell Bill. Post away to your heart's content - always worth reading. :)

38F huh ?

I think what you need is a few weeks in Oz at the moment - 110F the other day and more sunshine than you can cope with !

We do have cars that need fixing here as well you know ! :D

[Jon K]

Bill don't feel bad it's officially 30 degrees here. I have a headcold (have for about a week now) and an ******* room mate who goes home on weekends, comes back and in the first 2 mins of getting in goes, "Its hot as **** in here..." and turns the A/C on. What he doesn't know, is that the best he'll get is "FAN" because I desoldered the switch for the compressor. If he weren't moving off campus in a week and a half, I'd have jumpered that A/C switch to ****ing heat.

[ryan roopnarine]

huh? what's all this vita-veeta-vegemin nonsense people speak of. one of the completely unexpected side effects of going off of meat was that i don't get colds for longer than a day or two (or if its the two week flu, i just feel a little icky as opposed to vomiting my guts out like my friends or roomates). also, i can eat shiiite that would give normal people food poisoning and just get a 12 hour 'gastro' affliction:D

[Evan]

nice fiero, jeff (jealousy made me do it)

[Evan]

bill, your posts are always a good read... ive read dozens of them at a time

[Dash01]

sounds like yours have, since grade 5 is usually not that bad to drill... then I would go with your second idea of a dremel but I use a dumore flex shaft instead that will take 1/4 inch shank carbide grinding ball mills. The dremel will have the same result ,it will just take a lot longer and a lot more patience. I think your right about it being electrolytically fused to the aluminum and you'll probably be grinding it out completely and helicoiling or tapping oversize


I bought cobalt bits and tried them--hardly make a dent. Then, tried diamond ball bits on my Dremel, with cutting fluid. That hardly makes a dent, either. So, I think the grade 5 steel in the sheared off bolt has hardened and fused with the aluminum intake manifold into which it was screwed.

Now, I'm wondering about two possibilities:

1. Use a plug-cutter type bit, sorta like but smaller than a hole saw used to cut holes in wood or steel doors to put the doorknob assembly in. Diamond hole saws are commonly sold on eBay, in various sizes, for cheap. A ~3/8" plug cutter bit would effectively use the 5/16" steel bolt shaft as a pilot, cutting the softer aluminum from around its circumference. Perhaps this cutting action could be supplemented by using an acid that eats up aluminum. (I forget what type of acid that I used once to dissolve aluminum that had fused onto a steel crankshaft from the alu. connecting rod on a seized lawnmower engine. It cleaned that fused alu. right off the crankshaft and left it looking brand new.) Anyway, the softer alu. has got to be a lot easier to cut than the hardened steel, and the alu. would have to be tapped out for helicoil installation.

2. Since electrolitic action apparently fused the alu. to the steel in the first place, could reverse current also reverse the process? In other words, is electroplating reversible? This steel bolt has been in the alu. manifold in close proximity to coolant water, for years. One theory holds that the combination is, in effect, a battery with electolisis. So, is that rapidly reversible?

[Ross]

Drilling them out is best bet. Sharp bit, LOTS of pressure, oil and very slow speed on the drill.

[ryan roopnarine]

well if billiam jefferson rickard comes back to the thread..do you have any thoughts on the bg oil flushing machine as a service. i wanted to take the impala to someone to end this crap with the sludge.

[632 Regal]

open er up and power wash it with hot water then brek out the brushes and wire brushes...sounds fin either way, you have air faire?

well if billiam jefferson rickard comes back to the thread..do you have any thoughts on the bg oil flushing machine as a service. i wanted to take the impala to someone to end this crap with the sludge.

[ryan roopnarine]

open er up and power wash it with hot water then brek out the brushes and wire brushes...sounds fin either way, you have air faire?


so, i'm trying to pressure wash the oil pan and valve cover gaskets, then use brushes on the side walls of the sump and valvetrain areas? can i use solvent anywhere with the brushes? do i flush it out with motor oil? thanks.

[Bill R.]

there is still sludge in the motor? I'm alway hesitant to use all of these various motor flushes... anytime you wash away the oil film on a moving part your far more likely to cause damage to the bearings or the surface of the moving part. If its actually sludged then i would prefer a mechanical means to clean most of it out. Not a pressure washer,

Id just pull the pan and see how much sludging is actually there and clean out the bottom of the block with brushes ,scrapers etc using some spray solvent to get most of the heavy crud out. And clean up the oil pickup if clogged, then pull the valve covers and see how much crud is in the top of the heads,

These areas and the valley cover are the only areas where sludge builds up. On the moving parts and oil passages i would just continue to run high detergent oil to clean it out gradually.





well if billiam jefferson rickard comes back to the thread..do you have any thoughts on the bg oil flushing machine as a service. i wanted to take the impala to someone to end this crap with the sludge.

[ryan roopnarine]

i'm pretty certain that its sludge. the valvetrain looks like it has the typical sludge colored stain. the first time i saw the chocolate powder looking stuff dripping/oozing down the oil filter stud, i assumed it was some kind of one-off anomaly. every time since, i've left a piece of white cardboard under the stud, and a small mound of poorly mixed nesquick powder looking substance forms on top of it. its unlike any other used oil i've ever seen. i'm hesitant to use flushing chemical in anything, hence me changing the oil in this thing every 500-1k miles in the hopes that the ooze stopped. i want it to stop, but (ideally) i'd also want the owner to just go ahead and consider suing the chevy dealership for not changing the oil after changing the gasket, so i probably won't disturb any parts until he rules out taking legal action.

[Dash01]

For sludge test, why not take a biopsy? Drain the oil into a container, remove oil level sensor from the bottom of the oil pan, and reach in there with your finger or a loop of coathangar wire and see what you have.

I figured mine must surely be sludged, but the head and oil pan were actually pretty decent and had no goo. Replace oil sensor. Pour ~1 qt. of ATF in the engine, plus enough of your old oil, and run under no load for a few minutes til she warms up, then change oil and filter.