BMW e36....need tips on what to look out for when buying

[M-power]

Hi,

I am planning to buy '97-'99 BMW E36 (either 323i, 325i or 328i) within the next few months and I was wondering if someone could briefly give me some tips on the usual problems, what to look out for in terms of engine, electronics, transmission, suspension, steering and so on.

The reason I am asking this is because BMW repairs are usually very expensive so I am trying to minimise any problems that may arise.

Thanks

[winfred]

id go for the 328 if you want a 96 and up e36 for the extra power, cooling systems are pretty much crap by now and could use replacing to avoid roasting the engine, the electric air pump is a horrible design, the cyclonic valve under the intake and it's related plumbing is a check engine light/drivablity problem waiting to happen. id vote for a 95 m3 as one of the better e36s, it has the old better style intake system without all of the crap that the obdII cars get and will throw less check engine lights and when it does it will be a actual problem, the factory sound system is better in the 95 and older cars, so is the knob style hvac system controls, plus you get the better m3 brakes, posi diff and cool seats all on a package that doesn't really cost much more then a couple year later 328

[M-power]

Wow man.....I didn't expect so many flaws by BMW. Thanks for that, I'll pay special attention to plumbing, cooling and pumps.

As for the M3....well its a dream for now, I can not afford it at this stage....the closest thing to M3 would be 328i, so I'll look out for those.

[vroombimmer]

Hi im also looking to buy an E36 maybe 93-96 318is would these be same sort of things to look for?

is there an FAQ on this site that shows what to look for when buying an E36

[winfred]

about the worst thing on up to 95 318s that happens is the timing chain guides break and trash the valves if you ignore the rattle at start up too long, the later obdII cars have much the same annoyances, pcv problems (but easyer to fix) shitty electric air pump, more expensive less reliable hvac controls, people seem to destroy 318s with greater efficiency then 325s, a much greater percentage of 318s that come though my shop are horrible pieces of ****


Hi im also looking to buy an E36 maybe 93-96 318is would these be same sort of things to look for?

is there an FAQ on this site that shows what to look for when buying an E36

[Traian]

people seem to destroy 318s with greater efficiency then 325s, a much greater percentage of 318s that come though my shop are horrible pieces of ****

May be 318 drivers just see them as more disposable.
I would check all the electrical and power accessories, usually something doesn't work. Also, if you find one where the shifter isnt' a SSK and doesn't feel like a wet noodle, I'd say you've found a very well maintained car. They sound and drive really great when they're tight.

[M-power]

Thanks everybody for the replys, just one thing though......can you rephrase the parh about the shifter and the 'wet noodle' and the SSK transmission, I didn't quite understand you.

Thanks

[winfred]

id guess he was talking about a slap worn out shifter or a boy racer aftermarket unit


Thanks everybody for the replys, just one thing though......can you rephrase the parh about the shifter and the 'wet noodle' and the SSK transmission, I didn't quite understand you.

Thanks

[///M-Power 3\\\]

Some of the bigger issues:

1) Subframe Tear
2) Sway bar mounting points
3) Radiator neck cracking
4) Crappy ball joints
5) Automatic Trans (if it seems to rev high in reverse its going)
6) Water Pump/Thermostat housing (ask when its been replaced)
7) All OBD-II Crap get a 93-95 325i/is 328's have more problems
8) Interior wear, door panels etc

[paul p (chi-town)]

Some of the bigger issues:

1) Subframe Tear
2) Sway bar mounting points
3) Radiator neck cracking
4) Crappy ball joints
5) Automatic Trans (if it seems to rev high in reverse its going)
6) Water Pump/Thermostat housing (ask when its been replaced)
7) All OBD-II Crap get a 93-95 325i/is 328's have more problems
8) Interior wear, door panels etcMy experiences.
1 - Haven't looked, i'm afraid.
2 - Fine
3 - Standard 50-100K mile BMW issue, replaced. *
4 - Yes, and replacements bad after 10K miles!!! All metal update fitted, me likey (BMP or BavAuto can't remember) *
5 - Stick (seriously you'd get a slushbox?!?)
6 - See 3 *
7 - 92 no prob
8 - I've got a cloth/plastic interior that has not been abused, but still........falling headliner, c'mon.

* These items are a simple fact of life with an e36, no way round it. You may find one where these things have been replaced. But then, was it done preventively or after an 'incident', and what were the consequences (the only way to check pump is w/ a receipt). On the other hand, these repairs are within the realm of an amateur mechanic.
All that said, if one too many times you've found yerself saying "this e34/39 handles great......for it's size/weight", then there is no better place to appreciate the joys of the M50 family of engines.

”Hang up & Drive!” (http://homepage.interaccess.com/~motria/pablosgarage.html)
94 BMW 530iT&A 130K, ‘Helga’ ( for sale *sniff* )
92 BMW 325i 130K, ‘Rolf’ ( he’s baaack *whoohoo* hers *sigh* )
91 Volvo 745T 194K, ‘Thor’ ( 13 psi *smirk* no power steering *grunt* )
93 Datsun NX2000 172K ‘Carla’ ( alive & thumpin *uNfff!* )
85 Toyoda MR2 126K ‘Jerry’ ( so fresh and so clean, clean *grin* )
"Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin.