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View Full Version : left rear brake caliper jammed in place...



pong
10-21-2006, 11:23 AM
i really dont know what happened... on my way back home, i noticed that i somehow couldnt accelerate...

i stopped and checked what could be wrong, i then saw my left rear tire smoking... the left rear caliper jammed while on brake position...

what could have happened there?

i tried bleeding it, but no fluid came out of the screw, tried the main line to the caliper... still no fluid...

what do i do now? i blocked of the line and m running on 3 brakes :p

angrypancake
10-21-2006, 11:45 AM
your caliper froze. you gotta replace it.

632 Regal
10-21-2006, 12:37 PM
sometimes the rubber line swells inside and will block the fluid from releasing.

Super90
10-21-2006, 10:39 PM
I would replace/rebuild the caliper and the brake line. Then, do the same thing on the other side. IIRC, rebuilt calipers are really cheap compared to some other cars I own, so a rebuilding yourself is not likely worth the time. Brake lines are a no brainer if you have the system open on that corner anyhow. A pretty easy job on the 5er.

pong
10-26-2006, 07:57 AM
ok... got the piston out...

it seems that the boot and the o-ring seems to be ok...
it came out slowly as i pushed shop air into the system...

how easy is it supposed to go out? will it just shoot out...
or will be pushed slowly...

Ross
10-26-2006, 08:07 AM
The piston should pop right out. Also be sure the caliper slides freely on the mounting boltsso the brake doesn't drag.
An internally collapsed brake hose can restrict fluid flow back to the master cyl. causing a drag also, but not likely enough to lock a wheel.
Get a new or rebuilt caliper and lube the slide bolts with silicone grease and you should be fine.

pong
10-26-2006, 08:19 AM
it moves slowly... it does not really pop out quickly...

btw, whats in the rebuilding kit?

the boot and an o-ring only?

Ross
10-26-2006, 08:28 AM
Yes other than machining the bore that's all thats needed, okay a bleeder screw too.
Chances are from your description the bore is badly corroded and beyond a home rebuild. Deep pitting from rust will prevent a proper seal removing enough material to get past the pitting will also cause sealing problems or even a piston to rock in the bore.
If you see any corrosion in the bore at all replace it for ~$50 and be done, the seals will cost $10-15 and you will spend time f'ing around and make a big mess.