Peake & Other Scan/Reset Tools

[JMI]

Besides Peake is there other Scan/Reset tools that can be recommended?
I'm tired of throwing parts at my idle/stall problem and figure the smart thing to do is get a diagnostic tool.

Also, any opinions on OBDII devices?

Thanks

Jim

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

There are PC/Laptop software interface type kits out there too, and of course more expensive pro systems.

for $149.00 the peake reader would probably be a good buy to avoid the dreaded & expensive "calculatus eliminatus "of all the sensors during a problem.

[Jr ///M5]

Jim there were several tests and reviews of the different kinds and types of code readers in a recent issue of Roundel. The bottom line was that the Peak Code Reader tool was strictly specific for BMW use and was probably the least expensive of the group to purchase for the home mechanic. But like Bob suggests there are others out there, Actron comes to mind, but then the prices start to go up as you get into units that use graphs and real time measurements for fuel and ignition readings.

The laptop interface type were not too expensive, considering the capabilities, if you don't count the cost of the laptop....

[JMI]

A dumb question:
Does the Peake Tool also display the "stomp test" codes or any transmission related codes? I'm confused about what codes a 1989 535i BMW puts out and the ports to plug into to get them.

Thanks again,

Jim

[Jr ///M5]

The Peake Code Tool will plug into the diagnostic port. The round screw off cover right above the brake fluid reservoir. Basically you will get the same codes as the stomp test will provide. It will only read one transmission code. Keep in mind that this is still just a code reader and not a machine like they have at the dealer that reads HVAC, Transmission, Hair Color and the Future.

I ended up buying a Peake Research Tool because of the E39, and I needed a way to read the codes and reset the engine lights. I never used one for the E34, just depended on the stomp test and the Bentley manual. You really should buy a Bentley manual.

[shogun]

I have the PEAKE also. But for your 1989 built year the faults it can read are very limited. Here is a download by production year what is readable.
http://www.peakeresearch.com/manual.htm

PEAKE only reads recorded faults, not online, and just emission related like the stomp test as sais before.
But it is better than guessing and helps.

[JMI]

Thanks for all the replies and information. There is a particular reason for my interest in a scanner. I’m having an idle problem and have tried the “stomp test” on many occasions but have ALWAYS gotten the code # 1444 – No Code. I thought a scanner might get around that.
My idle problem has caused many stalls but the “Check Engine Light” has done nothing more than flicker for a split second as the engine stumbles. It never stays lit. My question about the “stomp test” is this: Does the “Check Engine Light” need to stay illuminated for a code to be present that can be read?

TIA

Jim

[Alexlind123]

Once the check engine light comes on, a code is stored and can be read using the stomp test.

[Jr ///M5]

The fault must be stored in the computer in order for the reader or the stomp test to work.

The Check Engine light will illuminate upon an emissions problem, such as an oxygen sensor failure. But here's the twist, suppose you have a leak in the air intake runner. The computer is designed to compensate for minor leaks and adjusts the fuel and timing to adjust for such leaks. So your leak gets worse until something like the oxygen sensor throws a fault code because of excessive air entering the system. The stomp test or a code reader won't tell you about a leak in the system, it will only identify the faulting sensor.

Point is, make sure all your connections and hoses are good and tight and you don't have any tears in your airboot beyond the Air Flow Meter causing unmetered air to enter your system causing a false fault.

Since you still get a 1444 code, it means that the emissions system is still within the parameters according to the computer and a fault has not yet been stored.

Your idle problem should be identified first. Tell us more about when it does it. Warm engine or cold, at first startup or after an extended run period. Does it do it all the time or just intermittantly?

We have to determine if it's a fuel problem, spark problem or air problem, it could be a sensor problem such as coolant temperature sensor or a crank position sensor being dirty or caked with deposits. Condition of the plugs, rotor and cap, fuel filter, and air filter should be checked along with the condition of all vacuum hoses and air boots before getting into the AFM, Coolant temperature, Crank angle, or any other contributing device is checked or condemned.

Any and all information is important when making a diagnosis.

[JMI]

Thanks M5

The car: 1989 535iA 126,000 miles

The symptoms: Happens mostly at idle (about 700 rpm). Warm or cold. The engine will start to stall, rpm dropping off, and then will surge momentarily to about 1100 rpm and then settle back to 700 rpm. Sometimes it will completely stall. I can usually prevent this surge/stall by slightly stepping on the accelerator.
There appears to be no regular pattern when this happens except maybe when slowing quickly.

Recently was running about 110 MPH and for first time the engine started missing. Not bad but missing just the same. 80 MPH no problem

I've replaced the distributor and rotor, new plugs, new ICV valve, tested the AFM, ECT sensor, TPS, CPS, spark plug wires using the methods/values from Bentleys. All resistances/continuity were normal. Adjusted valves and added the improved banjo bolts.

The CPS was covered with gunk and I clean it off but not sure if I did a through job of it. I will revisit that job soon. Also checked for air/vacuum leaks, did not find any but am considering getting all new hoses in case there is something I am not seeing.

I have tried running the engine and wiggling the sensor wires from the different ones looking for an intermittent ground/short. Have not done a complete job of it and will look at that again.

I check the ignition coil. Can’t remember exact readings but they were around 9,000 ohms (slightly high) and less then 100 ohms (way low but can’t believe that is the problem).

Have not checked the O2 sensor yet, but it has less then 20,000 miles on it.

I'm thinking it could be a fuel problem. Will be checking the pressure(s) in the next day or so.

Jim