Auto leveling suspension

[tony_ed]

Hello to all, I'm Tony_Ed, and i've just joined this fantastic forum. You people certainly seem keen to help each other out from what i've read:D , so i'm hoping you'll help out an english beemer driver too. I've searched through the prevous postings for info on the auto leveling suspension "honest guv", but havn't found the answers i need, hence a new posting.....Right then, my 525 failed its MOT yesterday because of leaking fluid around the "auto leveling sensing valve" as the nice tester man called it. I've had a look and sure enough there is some fluid dripping from this unit. I cleaned it off and went for a drive, making ure that i hit every speed hump that i could find (not difficult in england!) had a look after my little drive and sure enough, there was more fluid slowly dripping down:( . Not sure whether the leak is from the flexy pipe or the unit at this point, It'll be unbolted this thursday when i have a day off. My question is, are there any seals in these units that can replaced or am i going to have to remortgage to raise the several hundred pounds that the main dealers are asking for a replacement? All help greatly appreciated on this 1 gents.

[632 Regal]

you can run it through www.realoem.com and see what seals and stuff can be replaced ahead of time and have them on hand. Theres not too many people running the self leveling on here but I have see posts about leakage.

http://www.bimmernut.com/wwwboard/e34/si.html

Bookmark that link...it is your friend! Heres what it turned up for me:
http://www.google.com/search?q=self+leveling+leak&btnG=Google+Search&domains=www.bimmer.info&sitesearch=www.bimmer.info

[tony_ed]

Thanks very much for those links, I'll give them a good going over.

[cmk]

I've got a slow leak in mine as well where the regulator arm attaches to the valve.
(the seal on 6 where 1 attaches)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HC91&mospid=47387&btnr=33_0352&hg=33&fg=50

As far as i know there are no (designed) servicable parts on the valve.

[Jr ///M5]

The valve block is major expensive to replace, check all the connections good for leaks. Most of the time the fittings are VERY well tightened down and you can end up ruining them trying to tighten or loosen them without the right tools.

When the shocks themselves start leaking, it's a sign of blown accumulators. They act as a cushion between the extremely high pressures of the system and the hydraulic valves in the shocks.

The metering block is under high pressure all the time, so be careful as you work around the plumbing. Also remember to check the canister under the hood and only put in the type of fluid it specifies.

I've never heard of anyone taking their metering block apart to change the seals or o rings or whatever it's got inside, but at over $300 for a replacement, you can damn well bet I'd be taking the thing apart.

[tony_ed]

I will certainly be checking all the plumbing in the hope that its a pipe leaking and not the valve itself. BMW want £202 incl vat for the unit alone. it had crossed my mind though, what if I disconnect the linkage arm from the anti roll bar. Would that stop the leak as the unit is no longer under pressure, and how would the suspension react? I've done some checking on 525 model specs, and it looks like only the SE's and above had this auto leveling setup anyway. Any comments?

[tony_ed]

Well, I had a go at getting the regulating valve off. What a sodding nightmare:( . You need to be a contortionist just to get your hands round the exhaust and rear axle onlt to find that the hydraulic hoses attached to the valve housing are seized. I gave up after the better part of a day laying under the motor, and found a local garage to do the deed. Cost me £411 for parts and labour in all:) . £240 cheaper than BMW quoted me. It did also cost me a 2 hour wait in the local A&E dept however, I put my shoulder out:( . Still, by advise for anyone interested in doing this themselves......either have a hydraulic lift on hand to get the motor to a decent height whilst you work on it and a blow torch to help free the seized/corroded pipes or pay someone else to do it. if I'm faced with this again, I'll do the latter.

Big thanks to all that gave me help & advise