Is my rebuild finished... [Archive]

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chris_e34

07-10-2006, 07:14 PM

http://shmuck.u37.neureal.com/M60/

so i got the timing chain free, it seems as though the chain made it through being jammed with minimal damage. bad news is that with that chain whipping around it broke a few guides and snapped the left most guide (bolts to the block) clean off. pictures posted above. if i put everything back together in this condition will i have problems?? im devastated that i put so much time and money into this project, only for it to be ruined in the assembly process...

this is a continuation of this thread....
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=23771

the way i got the chain free, was i dropped the oil pan for the final few nuts of the timing case cover. once i had access to the jam it was easy to push the chain out, while turning the crank backwards. of course hammers,mallets and dowels were used to force it out while turning the crank.

chris_e34

07-10-2006, 07:18 PM

21 and 19 are the releavnt parts to what snapped off the block...http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3335&stc=1&d=1152558155

yaofeng

07-10-2006, 07:25 PM

I am pessimistic about your situation when something on the block broke like that. But I have never venture that far on a V8. Perhaps someone who has can cheer you up with a good news?

632 Regal

07-10-2006, 07:45 PM

Chris, heres the good news... your not drunk and cant sleep at night wondering if the engine is gonna snap all the valves in half because you didnt want to replace broken chain giudes.

Bad news: You drink yourself to sleep and forget all about the broken stuff and remember it the first time it fires up.

:D

yaofeng

07-10-2006, 08:07 PM

http://shmuck.u37.neureal.com/M60/

so i got the timing chain free, it seems as though the chain made it through being jammed with minimal damage. bad news is that with that chain whipping around it broke a few guides and snapped the left most guide (bolts to the block) clean off. pictures posted above. if i put everything back together in this condition will i have problems?? im devastated that i put so much time and money into this project, only for it to be ruined in the assembly process...

Maybe you can now find a 540 alusil to drop it in to get the power you always wanted but can only dream of? Perhaps this is a blessing in disguise?

Ross

07-10-2006, 08:08 PM

Now you know what you're dealing with at least. So a few more parts and you learn something new.
Do like regal632 says and drink now. I will do same as a gesture of support.

chris_e34

07-10-2006, 10:49 PM

LOL

yea i was thinking that exact same thing...the 4.0 liter m60 sounds real nicccceee... as far as knowing what i am dealing with...i shouldnt of put my girlfriend in charge of turning on the radio...then the engine wouldnt of cranked, and i would be posting pics of my progress rather than bitching. haha, a couple of weeks and il order the 4.0 m60.

chris_e34

07-10-2006, 10:52 PM

unless someone has one for sale??? or a crashed 540...lol. i think its mroe likely for someone to have a 3.0 m60, if someone has either please let me know...all i really need is the block...my heads are fine. but il take whatever is available...thanks for all of your support.

joshua43214

07-10-2006, 11:18 PM

I will add this to the horror stories I have heard over the years of not disconnecting batteries.

Pull the front cover, toss the block in the truck, and drive it over to a good welder and have the block fixed. It can be tig welded back together. Its not the end of the world, just a major pain in the ass.

Really sorry about your luck

632 Regal

07-10-2006, 11:31 PM

ok Chris...bad news.

You can swap the blocks, but...you'll need the 540 trans (wont bolt up to the flywheel as far as I know) and ecu and trans computer. You might be able to get away with the little 530 rear gears (Phisically smaller and weaker) but youll have to mess around with welding different ends on the drive shaft to fit the rear end flange, so might as well get the 540 rear end and brackets...oh yeah, and the bigger brakes in front and the back. probably missed something here but theres a nice shopping list for ya.

So as far as I can see the bolt bosses are broken off the block right? If so you have 2 choices, rip it out and have it welded back on OR get another short block 3.0. You might be able to pull the cover and get someone that does portable welding to come over and buzz them bungs back on for you. I wouldnt guess it would be much more than a hundred bux or so.

Good luck man!

unless someone has one for sale??? or a crashed 540...lol. i think its mroe likely for someone to have a 3.0 m60, if someone has either please let me know...all i really need is the block...my heads are fine. but il take whatever is available...thanks for all of your support.

Toomas

07-11-2006, 12:41 AM

You might be able to pull the cover and get someone that does portable welding to come over and buzz them bungs back on for you. I wouldnt guess it would be much more than a hundred bux or so.

I tought that the aluminium will rust through pretty much instantly when you weld it in air...

632 Regal

07-11-2006, 01:03 AM

shielding gas.

I tought that the aluminium will rust through pretty much instantly when you weld it in air...

Triton540i

07-11-2006, 03:28 AM

yaofeng

07-11-2006, 07:17 AM

Now you have the front of the car open, it is a perfect situation to wheel out the old drive train and wheel in the new one. You don't need an engine lift. A dolly will do the job. We can negotiate a good price for my 540 auto transmission when I finish the 6 speed conversion.

yaofeng

07-11-2006, 07:20 AM

chris_e34

07-11-2006, 07:50 AM

HEY, HEY, HEY!!!!! Since you have the oil pan off, can you take a good snapshot of the oil pump?!?!?!!?!? I've been thinking about removing my pan to see if the bolts are coming loose, but I just wanted to see where the oil pump was in relationship to the bottom of the pan! The Bentley and the RealOEM.com site don't really show the oil pump the way I need to see it and that's the way YOU have it!

If you could.... please (pretty please... please, please, please) send it to me in an E-mail along with a link to it in another posting... I would be SO thankful for your help!!!!

Most Sincerely,
-Eric
TechnoBMWPresident@gmail.com or estonbach@gmail.com

it is currently 8:51 am where i live. when i get off of work at 5 i will take some pics and post for you.

thanks for the offer on the auto trans, but i only drive manual. il keep everyone posted on what i end up doing. :)

Now you have the front of the car open, it is a perfect situation to wheel out the old drive train and wheel in the new one. You don't need an engine lift. A dolly will do the job. We can negotiate a good price for my 540 auto transmission when I finish the 6 speed conversion.

Ross

07-11-2006, 08:11 AM

Got a look at your pics last night just before everything went blooey.Looks pretty grim but there are guys who can stitch those bosses back on, provided they are in one piece, or even if not if you are really determined.
Don't give up. Ther are threads remaining in the bottom of the holes so maybe a little judicious welding and a little less tension on the NEW chain and you will be down the road hugely satisfied that you win.
Time now to capitalize on the guilt the GF is feeling.
Good luck and fight the good fight!

fin

07-11-2006, 09:01 AM

I will chime in on the welding suggestion.

It can be done. With the right equipment/welder, this is a snap.

Especially with threads remaining in the block. Thread the bolt into the stud and then into the block, then weld. It that cannot be done, find where the stud is deformed, file that part down and try again.

The worst case scenario would be if the threads were all bunged up and using a bolt to align the parts isn't possible. In that case, the welder could weld the stud back on and then weld the bolt hole up, re-drill the hole and tap it for the proper size.

Easier than writing more checks for updating engines/transmissions/electronics etc.

And if you are going to do that. Might I suggest a V-12? In for a penny, in for a pound.........

Good luck,

Fin

franan

07-11-2006, 09:12 AM

hi i have a issues with my car refuse to turn off after i removed the key from the ignition do you have any idea is a 1990 535i with 98k on it one owner thanks anyway.

632 Regal

07-11-2006, 10:59 AM

uhh...no
hi i have a issues with my car refuse to turn off after i removed the key from the ignition do you have any idea is a 1990 535i with 98k on it one owner thanks anyway.

632 Regal

07-11-2006, 11:01 AM

I used to have a Mattel Spin Welder
With the right equipment/welder, this is a snap.

chris_e34

07-11-2006, 11:29 AM

thanks ross for your pm. since i have a block that is already done for, i am going to attempt to fix it myself (with help from a friend) i have never welded before, but i have many friends who do on a regualr basis. none of them in the auto world...is there anything out of the ordinary i will need, or need to know before attempting to weld the alumminum block. i would imagine its a very sensitive job , but would a standard welder do the trick? welding is not my forte, so excuse the ignorance here... anyone with any knowledge on this please help me get the right stuff together before i bring my buddy over to help weld this ****er back on. what i may end up doing is renting a welder and tackling this tonight. also its been covered on this board many times, even on this threads parent thread...but im still not able to get this damn bolt off...http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/j/3.png #7

themain problem is locking the krank so i can spin the bolt out....

yaofeng

07-11-2006, 12:18 PM

In your other thread I attached a picture using a drift to lock the flywheel to the block at No. 1 piston TDC. That you must do first. With the flywheel locked, a cheater bar can then be employed to loosen the crank bolt.

Bill R.

07-11-2006, 12:42 PM

wire feed welder for aluminum but its not going to do the kind of job you need for this. You need to tig weld it. And to develop the skill to tig weld well takes time and practice. You'd be much better off pulling the motor and taking it to a good tig welder and having it done. Preheating will be needed also. edit, Let me rephrase this, there are people out there who are welders who can arc weld, then there are people who can gas weld, then there are people who can wire feed weld. Then there are people who can tig weld well... Tig welders are the brain surgeons of the welding field. Not just any schmoe who can weld a bead can tig weld well. Its much cheaper to pay somebody good to get it done right without screwing up the block.

thanks ross for your pm. since i have a block that is already done for, i am going to attempt to fix it myself (with help from a friend) i have never welded before, but i have many friends who do on a regualr basis. none of them in the auto world...is there anything out of the ordinary i will need, or need to know before attempting to weld the alumminum block. i would imagine its a very sensitive job , but would a standard welder do the trick? welding is not my forte, so excuse the ignorance here... anyone with any knowledge on this please help me get the right stuff together before i bring my buddy over to help weld this ****er back on. what i may end up doing is renting a welder and tackling this tonight. also its been covered on this board many times, even on this threads parent thread...but im still not able to get this damn bolt off...http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/j/3.png #7

themain problem is locking the krank so i can spin the bolt out....

JKBe30m3

07-17-2006, 06:39 PM

I am almost finished with my 3.0 to 4.0 swap. It all started when I was racing a buddy of mine's mustang on the expressway and I went to shift into 4th at about 100mph and It somehow went into 2nd gear. The rear wheels locked up and spun the engine to what must have been like 11,000 rpms. I limped home embarrassed and the rest is history. I always wanted a 540 or at least the power of one. Now I have the power and lower insurance premiums :) Let us know how it goes. I have a now intimate knowledge of the 3.0 to 4.0 swap so if you have any questions or need any parts/tools feel free to send me a message.

yaofeng

07-17-2006, 07:33 PM

I admire your candiness. Wow, 11,000 rpm! That must be something.

Did you get a 6 speed?

JKBe30m3

08-20-2006, 03:19 PM

No, I stuck with the 5-speed for the time being. I do hav eone proble now. The throttle seems to stick all the time and the pedal isn't stuck nor is the cable. I just installed a 540i chip in my 530i ecu and I don't know if that could be the problem. Also my check engine light blick when under acceleration above 1/2 throttle. Any ideas as to why. Can I check the codes if the light isn't on all the time?

grave77

08-20-2006, 03:49 PM

it should be a relay in the back that causes this, it happened with me before but the guy fixed it for me didn't explain enough ... mean while check the DME relay.

grave77

08-20-2006, 03:53 PM

I can suggest that you strip off the block and try to fix the broken part you snapped. That's if this is the only part of the block broken. it might be very hard to get a block only for a 530i, maybe easier if it was a 540i.

in Dubai there are piles, but your on the other face of the earth. I can't help up more.

edit: if you still have the broken part from the screw that snapped you can weld it at somebody uses Argon arch welding. it's how they weld aluminum parts and cracked heads.