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View Full Version : Finished Valve adjustment tonight



Felixdacat
05-22-2006, 08:49 PM
Got home from work and decided to finish the adjustment. Good news is the engine is quiet, the bad news is it still idles like crap. It idles at a consistent 800 rpm, no fluctuation in tach. replaced vacume hoses 1 by 1, made sure all electrical connections were tight. double checked everything. I think it might be the torq converter. Something just seems like it is out of balance. Any Ideas steering me in the right direction would help. Thanks in advance

AllGo'n'Show
05-22-2006, 09:45 PM
What procedure did you use for your valves? Looking at doing mine soon when the new gasket comes from Bavauto.

For ideas on rough idle?
Pull your spark plugs, how do they look?
Pull your wires, they look corroded? I'd say take a resistance reading but we don't have any stock new wires to compare them too.
Might also be your distributor or the rotor in your distributor, pull it off and see if you see any cracks or arcing in the casing.

If in doubt, replace, all those parts are probably alot cheaper then replacing the torque converter.

You can check compression as well, might cause a slight rough idle if your loosing compression in one of the cylinders. Lookup the proper way to do the compression test but in a jiffy, take all the spark plugs out, test each cylinder, record each result, now put a couple of drops of motor oil in the cylinders, test and record again, will help tell if the rings are shot. If they are still showing a difference in compression, take it somehwere for a leak down test, basically pushes air into the cylinders and out of whatever is leaking/broken, example, rings, you will hear in dipstick, valves, you will hear in valve cover/valve area, so on and so forth.

joshua43214
05-22-2006, 11:12 PM
I am not sure I follow. You say it idles at 800 with no fluctuation. Can you please be more specific as to what the problem is?

Vibration when you drop the car in drive? you probably need engine or transmission mounts.

Felixdacat
05-23-2006, 08:36 AM
I do apologize. The rough idle is while in park. While sitting at a light in drive, slight vibration. Did tune up on car a couple of months ago. Didn't change the wires though. To understand better, The car acts as though it has cams, and crank out of a modified chevy roadster.

Rustam
05-23-2006, 10:56 AM
I do apologize. The rough idle is while in park. While sitting at a light in drive, slight vibration. Did tune up on car a couple of months ago. Didn't change the wires though. To understand better, The car acts as though it has cams, and crank out of a modified chevy roadster.

evap purge valve good?

joshua43214
05-23-2006, 11:33 AM
Check the motor and tranny mounts. when they start to fail, you will get vibration in the passenger compartment.

Put the car in drive and hold the brake, have an assistant very slightly jack the engine up, then the tail shaft of the trans. all you are trying to do is take the load off the mounts, not raise the engine or trans by any large amount. if the vibration lessens or goes away, the end raised has bad mounts.

Bad engine and tranny mounts are a very common cause of vibration especialy on automatic cars.

Replace engine mounts in pairs for best results.

Felixdacat
05-23-2006, 05:23 PM
thanks guys I'll do this repair next. Never been changed

632 Regal
05-23-2006, 07:37 PM
if the valves are too tight it could also add to the confusion.

mamilapon
05-23-2006, 09:12 PM
Duct between your Idle control valve and throttle body?

Derek A.
05-24-2006, 04:59 AM
m30 does sometime sound like its got a chevy lt-1 cam in it - especially the older e28 cars.

The best thing I found that smoothed out the ide was the installtion of newer design fuel injectors.

Did you try spraying carb cleaning around all the vac lines to see if you get a fluctiation in idle speed ?

Felixdacat
05-24-2006, 02:40 PM
I checked all the valves 3 times. Had to reset a couple. .012 is what they are all set at. The duct between the Maf, and throttle is good. I need to do the carb cleaner check though. This weekend I will be replacing timing chain, oil pump chain, guides, and tensioners., and will be changing motor and trans mounts also. The mounts sound like they will be the culprits. When in drive and the brake is applied it adds tension to the engine and trans, not allowing them to vibrate too much. Everthing you guys mentioned will not be overlooked, and will help me out greatly. Thanks again all. updates when work is completed.