MB Quart installation woes

[Jon K]

I am trying to install MB Quarts here (3 ways) and I have a 1992 525i. I am going to use my headunit as the amp for right now. I have the Alpine CVA-1004 lcd unit. What I need to do is either run new wires (don't really want to do this because the factory are more than adequate) or use existing wiring. However, the wiring color-codes seem to change EVERY YEAR. I was already @ www.bmwe34.net for the color scheme but it didn't match my harnesses. If there is anyone with a bentley manual who can supply me 1992 525i (specifically 1992) color schemes please email me or IM me.

jkensy@comcast.net

oomxpxoo02 on AIM

Thanks!

[Paul in NZ]

between the head unit and speaker location and or factory amp to trace the wires....very long arms or a mate would be handy tho.........

[AZ_Jason_S]

I am trying to install MB Quarts here (3 ways) and I have a 1992 525i. I am going to use my headunit as the amp for right now. I have the Alpine CVA-1004 lcd unit. What I need to do is either run new wires (don't really want to do this because the factory are more than adequate) or use existing wiring. However, the wiring color-codes seem to change EVERY YEAR. I was already @ www.bmwe34.net for the color scheme but it didn't match my harnesses. If there is anyone with a bentley manual who can supply me 1992 525i (specifically 1992) color schemes please email me or IM me.

jkensy@comcast.net

oomxpxoo02 on AIM

Thanks!

Maybe you should just run new wires, if you are using the HU for power. Its probably no more difficult than tapping into the existing system. The wire run would be short as opposed to all the way to the trunk and back to the front. You could place your X-Overs behind the kick panels. Are you replacing rears also? If so, you can run the wires in the channels below the doors, next to the seats. Its really pretty easy. The only other factor is, are you planning on adding outboard amps later? Then you may want the X-Overs in the trunk, but I would still consider new wires. I tapped into my system originally. I had no problem with the wiring diagrams. However, my system evolved from the factory HU w/ Outboard amps to an aftermarket HU w/ outboard amps. Originally tapping into the OEM harness made sense. Now I have new wires run to the fronts, OEM on the rears.

[Jon K]

Maybe you should just run new wires, if you are using the HU for power. Its probably no more difficult than tapping into the existing system. The wire run would be short as opposed to all the way to the trunk and back to the front. You could place your X-Overs behind the kick panels. Are you replacing rears also? If so, you can run the wires in the channels below the doors, next to the seats. Its really pretty easy. The only other factor is, are you planning on adding outboard amps later? Then you may want the X-Overs in the trunk, but I would still consider new wires. I tapped into my system originally. I had no problem with the wiring diagrams. However, my system evolved from the factory HU w/ Outboard amps to an aftermarket HU w/ outboard amps. Originally tapping into the OEM harness made sense. Now I have new wires run to the fronts, OEM on the rears.

I know running wires isn't all that difficult, however the OEM wires are of good gauge and are twisted and run exactly where they need to be to avoid cross-talk. My stereo right now consists of an Alpine CVA-1004 LCD headunit with RCA outs to my subwoofers, RCA Video/Audio inputs to the head from the trunk for my X-Box and power inverters and everything between. I plan on getting an expansion processor/module that will allow me to run each (front and rear) channel over RCA connections when I will get stand alone amplifiers, but for now I am doing it this way because I don't want ot pull the car down to run wires. Running wires to the tweeters is a REAL pain in the ass due to the door panels. If anyone has a reliable diagram please let me know.


The wire run would be no shorter because you cannot mount the cross overs behind the kick panels. They're too large, but also, they are tuneable and need to be accessible. Removing kick panels to adjust dB is a bit ridiculous.

[mrbmw1]

Jon have some one use an old speaker and test each set of wires because i had the same problem with the wire diagram but for the most part its pretty accurate.
94 540i
6.5 Boston Acustics
5.5 Fosgate seperates
4-Volfanhag 1000w 12's YEAH LOTS OF OVER KILL
1600w Volfanhag 4 ch BUT HITS LIKE A MACK TRUCK
2- 1000 Volfanhag 2 ch & CLEAR AS A BELL

[ryan roopnarine]

scan those out tonight and post them here.

[AZ_Jason_S]

I assumed you were using the dash for tweeters, not the pillar. the bmwe34.net wiring description was correct for me. Is it wrong at the HU, the stock amp, or just completely wrong?

Worst case, since you are using an aftermarket HU, and (I assume) eliminating the BMW amp, you could use whatever wires you want at the HU, and splice them to the correct speaker wires in the trunk. You should be able to determine the colors of the speaker wires because you are removing the old speakers right? You have 4 pairs of speaker wires at the HU, they should be identifiable as speaker pairs because, there should be pairs of one color except one will have a brown stripe, the other maybe a red stripe (some other color stripe) or no stripe. Splice these to your speaker wires, which you will know when you pull the old speakers. Does this make sense, or am I not helping? Is power, ground and illumination a problem too?

[AZ_Jason_S]

If you use one of the HU adapters made my Schocshe, you can just plug into the factory harness at the HU. It will match correctly, you just splice it to you HU harness. After you have that, you will know what colors are what speakers in the trunk because the adapter should be a known quantity....

[Jon K]

Jon have some one use an old speaker and test each set of wires because i had the same problem with the wire diagram but for the most part its pretty accurate.
94 540i
6.5 Boston Acustics
5.5 Fosgate seperates
4-Volfanhag 1000w 12's YEAH LOTS OF OVER KILL
1600w Volfanhag 4 ch BUT HITS LIKE A MACK TRUCK
2- 1000 Volfanhag 2 ch & CLEAR AS A BELL



TO ALL THOSE USING 6.5" SPEAKERS... HOW?!?!?!


I am having a HARD time (to say the least) determining how to mount these MB Quart 6.5" speakers into the 5.25" kick panels. Please guys, I am trying to complete by the weekend... I have cross overs wired entirely... I need more info!


Also, is it possible to bridge a factory head unit? I am not going to run rear speakers and was wondering if it was possible to bridge front and back left and front and back rights together.... yay or nay?


Again, how are you guys getting the 6.5" into the 5.25"?

[Tiger]

Cut the hole into your panel... surface mount it. Easy job with a tin snip and some saw.

Do not bridge your head unit... if you want to use it... just hook it up as normal.

[Jon K]

Cut the hole into your panel... surface mount it. Easy job with a tin snip and some saw.

Do not bridge your head unit... if you want to use it... just hook it up as normal.


Nah, no cutting for me. Its behind the dead pedal, that wouldn't work. I got creative... as usual.


http://www.thesecretnine.com/jk/mbs/mounts/IMG_0991.jpg
http://www.thesecretnine.com/jk/mbs/mounts/IMG_0989.jpg

[AZ_Jason_S]

You can't bridge HU's. They don't have the space for the circuitry nor the heat sink neccesary to disipate the heat. Also, you should make some adapter rings out of some MDF or Hardboard for your speakers. Your speaker should be solidly mounted. That plumbers strap you used will allow the speaker vibrate and compromise your sound quality. The best way to mount those is in some custom kick panels. If you don't want to cut your oem kicks, I doubt you will want to fab the custom kicks.

These are pics of mine in progress, they are further along now. However, I am still positioning my speakers and they still require alot of finish work. They look pretty rough in these pics. The upside of these is, you get the tweeter in the same plane as the mid. This eliminates phasing issues between the 2 speakers. Also, the kick panel is the best location to get as close as possible to equi-distant speakers. You can aim them up towards the cabin, instead of at your feet. Finally, you create a solid enclosure that will help boost your mid-bass response. I also run a second set of tweeters on my dash to raise the soundstage. I attenuate those speakers with the rear channels of my HU. I currently have my rears speakers disconnected. If you get interested, search sounddomain.com forums for custom kick panels you can really learn alot. Did you get your wiring sorted out?

BTW, I lost my dead pedal, but I have 2nd sets of OEM kicks with another set of speakers. If I want the dead pedal back for a long trip, I can just swap the kick panels. Though, I have never done it.....


http://www.members.cox.net/jasons7/kicks/kick1.JPG
http://www.members.cox.net/jasons7/kicks/kick2.JPG
http://www.members.cox.net/jasons7/kicks/kick3.JPG
http://www.members.cox.net/jasons7/kicks/kick4.JPG

[Jon K]

You can't bridge HU's. They don't have the space for the circuitry nor the heat sink neccesary to disipate the heat. Also, you should make some adapter rings out of some MDF or Hardboard for your speakers. Your speaker should be solidly mounted. That plumbers strap you used will allow the speaker vibrate and compromise your sound quality. The best way to mount those is in some custom kick panels. If you don't want to cut your oem kicks, I doubt you will want to fab the custom kicks.

These are pics of mine in progress, they are further along now. However, I am still positioning my speakers and they still require alot of finish work. They look pretty rough in these pics. The upside of these is, you get the tweeter in the same plane as the mid. This eliminates phasing issues between the 2 speakers. Also, the kick panel is the best location to get as close as possible to equi-distant speakers. You can aim them up towards the cabin, instead of at your feet. Finally, you create a solid enclosure that will help boost your mid-bass response. I also run a second set of tweeters on my dash to raise the soundstage. I attenuate those speakers with the rear channels of my HU. I currently have my rears speakers disconnected. If you get interested, search sounddomain.com forums for custom kick panels you can really learn alot. Did you get your wiring sorted out?

BTW, I lost my dead pedal, but I have 2nd sets of OEM kicks with another set of speakers. If I want the dead pedal back for a long trip, I can just swap the kick panels. Though, I have never done it.....


http://www.members.cox.net/jasons7/kicks/kick1.JPG
http://www.members.cox.net/jasons7/kicks/kick2.JPG
http://www.members.cox.net/jasons7/kicks/kick3.JPG
http://www.members.cox.net/jasons7/kicks/kick4.JPG


I did get the wiring sorted out. The way i have rolled the plumbing wrap, the speakers have extremely little, to what i consider zero give.