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Jay 535i
04-18-2006, 12:09 PM
I'm going to try to do a valve adjustment myself as soon as I find some time, and I'm not 100% clear on the part about spinning the crank with a wrench, which the Bentley manual calls for. There are no pics of that part of the procedure, so I'm not really sure what to turn, or what kind of wrench I'll need.

Also, the Bentley manual recommends removing the fan shroud, but I read in another thread that there was a way to avoid that hassle.

Can anybody clear this up for me? I can just see myself there, 60 minutes into the job, unable to turn the crank and having to give up. :(

Thanks in advance.

Blitzkrieg Bob
04-18-2006, 12:31 PM
a big wrench to turn the crank clock wise. I did this from underneath.

or

use a remote starter to bump the starter motor as needed.

It hooks up to a couple of pins (forget the #s 14-17-19 ???) in the big black plug data/interface thing-a-ma-bob.

athflying79
04-18-2006, 12:40 PM
Since I have recently done this both ways I'll tell you what I think.

First I didn't do it how the Bentley describes. If you can get a hold of a 32mm open end wrench (has to be VERY thin....I had to grind one down to get it to fit), you can use it to turn the engine over by using the fan nut. I was changing the spark plugs anyway, so mine were out and don't think this method is possible without taking them out as there will be to much compression to overcome. This way you have easy access and do not have to remove the fan and shroud. The downside is you still turning by hand and you have to take the plugs out.

The second time around I made a remote starter (search BillR's posts and you'll find how to do it). It took less than 5 minutes to do, cost less than $8 and saved an immense amount of time and labor....and will continue to do so in the future. You don't have to worry about rotating the engine the wrong way. It is also useful in making sure the oil spray bar is working properly and can even be used to reset the service lights. Basically it's better in every conceivable way than doing it manually.

Edit: BlitzkriegBob got me by 9 minutes and the pins are 14 and 11. I wrote it on the bottom of my starter so I didn't have to look it up all the time.

joshua43214
04-18-2006, 12:42 PM
Remove the plugs for all but the last item option.

If you have a manual trans, put it in 5th gear and roll it arround, that was how I was taught and it works fine, gives fairly good control too.

If your alternater belt is tight, you can put a wrench on its nut and roll the engine over that way.

You can wrap a rag arround a pair or 16" chanel locks and turn the crank behind the pulleys.

you can use a pulley wrench on the front pulleys.

You can reach past the fan and get a socket wrench on the crank nut, but its tight, it only takes a moment to remove the fan shroud, if your careful you can save the rivets, use quick ties as a quick fix to get on the road again if you break them. the fan should spin right off with a quick rap with your palm on the wrench unless it was over tightened, but even if the is fan tight, removeing the shroud will help. Basicaly just put a socket and a short extension on a wrench and turn the center nut on the crank, you may be able to use a deepwell instead of an extension.

Or you canuse a remote starter to bump the enigine over, do this with the plugs installed.

calmloki
04-18-2006, 01:02 PM
"If you have a manual trans, put it in 5th gear and roll it arround, that was how I was taught and it works fine, gives fairly good control too."

I concur - make sure you have enough room fore and aft of the car to roll the car and engine through the adjustment sequence. Hint: the car doesn't really care if it goes forward or back when in gear.

mamilapon
04-18-2006, 01:18 PM
Mate, this is how i have been doing it:
1 Undo the fan nut with a few sudden jerks CLOCKWISE.
2 Pull the two top clips retaining the rad shroud
3 Remove the shroud and the fan at the same time.
4 Remove the spark plugs.
5 Grab a 36mm socket and a ratchet wrench.
6 Make sure you've got the correct direction of rotation
7 You're in business!!

schnell944
12-02-2006, 01:12 AM
sorry to ressurect this old thread, but you rotate the fan nut clockwise when facing the front of the car, correct?

Ross
12-02-2006, 10:51 AM
Yep, LH threads on it.

Ross
12-02-2006, 10:57 AM
I've done with the remote starter and without. Getting the cam in exactly the right spot is tough using the starter motor, plus I once caught a fingertip between the cam and head while feeling for the lobe to come around. Had to have a bit of a lay down after that one.
With the plugs out and a tight belt I use the fan nut now.

schnell944
12-02-2006, 04:11 PM
Ok, so, I have my 32mm open wrench...ready to turn the engine with it...except it is too thick and the pully bolts get in the way. Would it be safe to just remove the pully bolts to gain access and turn the engine? I'd rather not grind the wrench if I don't have to. Perhaps I could leave one pully bolt in so everything turns together and and I don't have the problem of matching the holes again later. Could this put too much stress on that one bolt? I only have a rotary sander here, not a proper grinder. From reading the Haynes manual it looks like the fan doesnt simply come off with a bolt in the front but is held on there by the fan nut...which brings me to another question: If I am rotating the engine by the fan nut and it loosens by turning it clockwise, won't I possibly loosen the fan nut during the engine turning process? Or does it require a sharp whack to become free? sorry for the anal questions....just want to get everything right.

**also, while I was poking around in there trying to find a bolt on the front of the fan assembly(this is how my '72 2002 is set up) I pried a sort of flap on the front of the fan up a bit. I then saw that it wasnt covering a bolt but was attached to a sort of pin with a spring beind it and then realized that it was probably some part of the fan clutch assembly. Is there any potential that I did some damage to the fan clutch by prying this part a little? What exactly is that part of the clutch assembly, anyway? I need to switch out of 2002 repair mode and realize that things are a little more sophisticated on the 5er, lol.

Robert K
12-02-2006, 11:22 PM
Every time I adjust the valves on my 1991 535i, I always check the plug gaps too. Once the plugs are out, I put a leather glove on my right hand, reach down from the passenger side to the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine, and pull it up to rotate the engine. With the plugs out, it is very easy to turn the engine over by hand. It's also easy to watch the cam lobes so that you stop exactly when both valves are fully closed. I've used this method for years now and have never needed any wrench, nor had to take the fan and radiator shroud out. Give it a try.

Grace and peace,

Robert K
1991 535i (with fresh Zaino today!)

schnell944
12-03-2006, 12:43 AM
interesting. I'll have to try that out. Maybe then I'll be able to return my $25 wrench! Since I haven't dealt with the harmonic balancer before, what am I looking for? Why do more people not do it this way inseat of using those big, expensive wrenches? I'm assuming you also turn the HB clockwise. thanks!

p.s. your Zaino'd car must be happy

Ross
12-03-2006, 02:16 AM
If you remove the bolts the pulley comes off. Leaving one in may work but you will need to reinstall it and remove another every revolution.
Turning it clockwise does loosen it but not likely with the plugs removed.
The spring on the fan clutch is the thermostatic control, not a good idea to pry at it.
Grind down your wrench or buy a thin one. Sounds like you may want to replace that fan clutch now anyway.

clhorton
12-03-2006, 07:09 AM
Using the leather glove and your hands is a great way to rotate the engine. I used this method when I installed my new 4hp22. It did kinda get painful at some point though. But a lot easier getting a special tool

Robert K
12-03-2006, 02:59 PM
The harmonic balancer is the large round plate-like piece behind the main crank pulleys. It has notches in it's outer edge for the crank position pickup to read. When I do my valves, I just take the air filter housing and associated tubes off. Gives you a lot more room to work and reach the plugs. That will also give you room to reach down and grab the harmonic balancer. I agree that tools can make it easier. But I tend to buy single use tools I HAVE to have...not ones I can do without.

P.S. My Zaino'd car is VERY happy! In fact, it asked if we could go for a drive today. I said, "Sure, why not." Gotta go!

Grace and peace,

Robert K
1991 535i