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NY535iManual
04-14-2006, 04:26 PM
Ok, so.... I finally got my A/C fixed. New heater control valve, new drier, new switches. Yay for cold air. HOWEVER, now my high beams don't work (even though the in-dash hi beam indicator light comes on), and when the car is off the in dash monitor shows a "key in ignition" message. This stays lit even when I use the key (which is obviously NOT in the ignition) to lock the car. Has anybody faced this particular gremlin before, or do I just have to start looking for grounds?

Any thoughts are much appreciated.

Thanks,

Armando

Kalevera
04-14-2006, 04:41 PM
Search, baby. Many people around here, me included, are tired of answering questions that have been beaten into the ground.

Best, whit

NY535iManual
04-14-2006, 05:20 PM
Whit - I of course searched, but this problem seems different from the usual low beam LKM problem that various different searches turned up. (Searching "Key in Ignition" doesn't turn up any relevant response that I found). Does the same LKM re-solder fix work for the hi-beams? Are the hi-beams grounded to the AC switches perhaps? Not trying to be lazy, just looking for help.

Thanks,

Armando

Blitzkrieg Bob
04-14-2006, 05:25 PM
Was the switch a direct replacement or "fixed" in some way?

I fried a n A/C switch once trying to replace the bulb, and it made the dash lights and headlights act wierd.

Paul in NZ
04-14-2006, 09:47 PM
lkm operates the high beams too in fact my lkm problem took out ALL my headlights at 60 mph in the middle of the night halfway round a sweeper

NY535iManual
04-16-2006, 04:48 PM
So, a little time with a multimeter and a wiring diagram has at least (seemingly) diagnosed my problem, if not solved it. Apparently, my lazy shade-tree PO had a problem with the A/C switches & didn't want to replace them, so he hard-wired the switch in the "on" position, using the hi-beam harness (!!!!) for juice. When my shop replaced the A/C switches and related wiring (I categorically refuse to ever work on A/C systems, as they have a unique way of causing explosive frustration), it seems they inadvertently opened the hi beam circuit but left it with no way to close, ergo no hi-beams unless the worn (and un-capped!) hi-beam wiring happened to rub up against the body in such a way that would let it ground. Its amazing what POs will do...

Incidentally, the LKM looked just fine when I pulled it but just in case I've ordered a fully rebuilt one. ($90 on ebay, with 3 year warranty, so this beats playing with soldering irons as far as I'm concerned.)

I'm not sure if or how this led to the "key in ignition" message, but I guess I'll tackle that next. I have a rebuilt control board sitting on my desk ($120, 2 year warranty, also ebay) so perhaps this will solve the problem, which could be related to a short in the board that presently kills my battery if the car sits for more than 2 days...

Javier
04-16-2006, 05:10 PM
Apparently, my lazy shade-tree PO had a problem with the A/C switches & didn't want to replace them, so he hard-wired the switch in the "on" position, using the hi-beam harness (!!!!) for juice.


Javier

Kalevera
04-16-2006, 05:22 PM
Absolutely the case. I worked on a similarly hacked E32 two or three weeks ago -- headlights were wired in a parallel circuit using, of all things, monster cable speaker wiring.

Armando, I owe you an apology. I'm sorry that I fired off the **** cannon based on the assumption that a search wasn't performed. We've been getting a lot of new people who occasionally don't get netiquette and simply expect answers with no apparent attempt to help themselves.

It seems like you've solved the lighting issue. The check control message is cluster or ignition switch related. One thing I would do before installing another cluster is to remove the current one and visually check all of the joints. Cracked solder is common and a quick reflow of a connection is an easy fix.

best, whit

Jr ///M5
04-16-2006, 05:29 PM
This opens discussion for something just a little bit beyond your beams not working correctly.....

What makes you think your mechanic did the rest of his work right? Just because the A/C works right now....doesn't mean it will work a little later down the road. I mean if he'll bypass a switch because he doesn't understand it's function, using another circuit altogether, can be dangerously expensive to you. I would wonder about his mechanical ability to do the rest of the A/C work? Just what kind of shortcuts did he take now that could end up costing you over and over again.

Jr

Javier
04-16-2006, 05:30 PM
worse permanent damage to the car.

Javier

NY535iManual
04-16-2006, 09:21 PM
Whit, no worries man, I completely understand.

Jr, you've hit the nail on the head as far as I'm concerned. Besides getting the AC fixed, I had a new drive shaft, CSB and guibo installed as well, and I'll be damned but the car came back the first time with the two middle doughnuts missing, AND the clamp thats just behind the muffler totally loose. And this is from a VERY reputable shop... (And let me tell you about the "Little Garage" in New York, which supposedly changed the valve cover gasket & did the valves, but clearly did NEITHER. Oh, and they advised that the front seals were "pissing" oil and needed to be replaced, even though this is kind of the natural state for M30s...)

My father had his own shop & raced sports cars for 30 years (IMSA GTU, SCCA, etc.). Before my e34 I had never taken ANYcar to a shop, but living in Manhattan means I have nowhere other than a parking lot to fiddle with my car. Honestly, this is why I don't trust any shop - If you do it yourself, you just care more I guess. Now if only I could swing a three bay personal garage with a lift...

My car is now at my parents place in Florida, and I've been going over it like a dog on a bone (my "to do" list is now 1.5 pages long).