Have done repairs, car won't start ....

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Hi All,

I had a broken timing chain guide, opened her up (540 1994) - timing chain covers and lower sump cover. Now fixed .....

Have put everything back together, set the camshafts with the timing blocks and locked in TDC, etc. Did everything I thought I was supposed to do, put all the bolts back in their places, no spares left afterwards .......

:( and the sucker sounds like it wants to start but just won't.

I have tested the following:
1. Ignition coils;
2. Crankshaft position sensor;
3. Main relay;
4. Engine coolant temp sensor;
5. Intake air temp sensor;
6. Throttle position sensor;
7. Air flow sensor;
8. Fuel Injectors; and
9. Idle speed control valve.

Don't have oxygen sensors.

When I just keep winding the starter she seems to build up momentum like she's going to start but then there'll be a little blast and all the zing is gone, back to just being turned over with the starter.

I'm pulling my hair out here. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I searched the forum but am bit lost for keywords other than "starting" "not starting", etc.

Regards
Richard

[Hallmark]

My wifes car wouldn't start yesterday. No codes, turned over fine, just wouldn't start. About a year ago my other E34 had a noisy fuel pump so I changed it out, but when I changed it I kept the old fuel pump since it was still working when I took it out. Sure enough...

When the key is in pos. 2 you should be able to hear the fuel pump in the trunk or right rear wheel well. A normal pump will make a quiet but obvious "buzz".

FWIW

[632 Regal]

I cant hear my pump at all. I would do a compression test on it and see whats up there, you could have the cams off a tooth or 2 which would cause this.

[Tiger]

Did you change the chain? I think you are off on timing.

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Yeah I'm thinking that I may have the cams off a tooth or two as Regal has suggested which would give me what Tiger is suggesting but I was reeeaaaallllyyy sure I had the cams set real tight with chains in position with the chain tensioner adjuster. etc.......
Anyways, I checked for a fuel pump and there was none but I never recall any buzz before. So I held my foot flat on the gas while turning the engine overand I get the usual smell of too much fuel so I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is ok.

Now I'm taking head covers off again and will test the timing again and report back....... For the life of me I don't know why I enjoy this ..... have been missing my V8 and now I just want it back...

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Will the compression test show that my timing is out ? .... Valves opening and closing at the wrong times will give me low compression ?

[Bill R.]

case it should be popping back out the intake manifold and in the exhaust..



Will the compression test show that my timing is out ? .... Valves opening and closing at the wrong times will give me low compression ?

[632 Regal]

eeesh...that could also bent the valves. Hopefully its just a couple teeth off and thats it.

Have you checked if your getting spark?


case it should be popping back out the intake manifold and in the exhaust..

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yep, spark and fuel, no knocking of valves on piston tops

[632 Regal]

sounds like a nasty case of checking the cam timing.

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am opening up and checking .....

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I'm more than a little frazzled!!

Opened up guts and checked both camshafts on both sides with crankshaft and all my settings were spot on. So I thought maybe I should be able to hear my fuel pump and went and tested. After initially tracking the wrong relay (two similar relays) and getting all excited because at least I've now found problem with open circuit between relay and fuel pump fuse, I discovered the correct fuse and the reason why I don't hear the fuel pump buzzing is because the DME only switches the relay when you turn the engine over with the starter. After forcing the fuel pump relay closed I could hear both the fuel pump and the electronic box fan......

So now I'm up the creak without a paddle. Any other ideas other than dragging a dealer mechanic to my house ?

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Apologies with the mumbling :( I tracked the wrong relay, found the RIGHT relay and found nothing wroing with the fuel pump or wiring :( .

Timing is as set with BMW special tools to lock camshafts and flywheel in TDC.

I pulled spark plugs and they're wet with fuel which means no firing ??
But when I pull a plug and insert it into a distributor and turn the engine over, I get spark on the plug. So when will I get a spark and fuel but no explosion ?

:( :(

[TWISM]

I guess you also had your sparks out? With the bobines?
Have you put your bobines back on the right sparkplugs?

Had the same failere with an 318iS.
Bobine for sparkplug 1 was put on sparkplug 2 etc.

He wants to start, but it doesn't...
Sometimes you have the idea that he's firing up, but then it goes dead again.

[TWISM]

Apologies with the mumbling I tracked the wrong relay, found the RIGHT relay and found nothing wroing with the fuel pump or wiring :( .

Timing is as set with BMW special tools to lock camshafts and flywheel in TDC.

I pulled spark plugs and they're wet with fuel which means no firing ??
But when I pull a plug and insert it into a distributor and turn the engine over, I get spark on the plug. So when will I get a spark and fuel but no explosion ?

:( :(

Read my other post...;)

It sounds to me your sparktiming is wrong, caused by wrongly inserted bobines.

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EXACTLY !!! What the hell is a bobine ????

[TWISM]

EXACTLY !!! What the hell is a bobine ????

I meant the ignition coil... Bobine is the word for it in dutch *shame*

Check if your ignition coils are connected to the right wire. ;)
And you have the right ignition coil to the right sparkplug.

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Thanks TWISM, that's what I thought so I've just gone and checked. I numbered each ignition coil and three were in the wrong order, I switched them back (cause I wrote numbers on them before I took them out) but still the same result.

Turning the engine over now I hear a definite difference when I take the foot of the gas, just engine turning over mechanically if gas pedal not depressed, some firing when pressed down.

Something with the firing but I can't find out what.

TWISM: What you mean "Check if your ignition coils are connected to the right wire" ? The connectors are all fixed sets aligned in the housing which gets pushed onto the fuel injectors. Maybe I'm thinking I cannot put them in the "wrong way" when it's possible ?

[TWISM]

Thanks TWISM, that's what I thought so I've just gone and checked. I numbered each ignition coil and three were in the wrong order, I switched them back (cause I wrote numbers on them before I took them out) but still the same result.

Turning the engine over now I hear a definite difference when I take the foot of the gas, just engine turning over mechanically if gas pedal not depressed, some firing when pressed down.

Something with the firing but I can't find out what.

TWISM: What you mean "Check if your ignition coils are connected to the right wire" ? The connectors are all fixed sets aligned in the housing which gets pushed onto the fuel injectors. Maybe I'm thinking I cannot put them in the "wrong way" when it's possible ?


I just checked ETK and the wiring can't be wrong on the ignitioncoils...

What have you dismounted further??

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I just checked ETK and the wiring can't be wrong on the ignitioncoils...

What have you dismounted further??
1. removed plugs, ignition coils, cylinder head covers;
2. Cam shaft covers - two top and one common bottom;
3. Found broken timing chain guide;
4. removed lower oil pan;
5. Found oil pump loose bolts (stretched beyond belief) - replaced oil pump;
6. Re-assembled in reverse order.

Checked all sensors as listed in my first post. :(

Regards
Richard

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No compression on two cylinders, all six the others are too low.

In opening up I did not remove the cylinder heads to try and save on cost and time. The cylinder head gaskets also include the timing chain chamber and as such the gasket gets exposed when you remove both upper and lower timing chain covers. Seems I may have damaged these in the repair.:( :( :( :(