Auto tranny trouble in cold?

[amarentic]

Over the past week, the tranny light has come on during cold starts in the morning (-5 degrees Celcius) in my 1992 e36 325i 4DR. The tranny would skip 1-2-3 and go right into 4th? After driving like this to my coffee stop, I would come out the tranny light would be off and the tranny would catch all gears properly. This went on for 5 days until one morning (this tuesday = really cold), the tranny light was on all day long and no 1,2, or 3?

Immeadiately I took it to my old Scot Bimmer specialists (old dealer guys) and they said probably low fliud. Left the car over night they scanned the error code, checked the fliud and it was two "cups" low = not the problem. The error code came up as "transmission pressure" but what does that mean? Even they didn't know!

The car was kept indoors that night and when he test drove it in the morning, it ran fine? But after being left outside all day the problem came back, no 1, 2 or 3?

There are no leaks and fluid is proper and they don't know what to do? Anybody out there have any ideas? Please advise ... I miss my car! Thanks!!!

[Bravo10000]

Over the past week, the tranny light has come on during cold starts in the morning (-5 degrees Celcius) in my 1992 e36 325i 4DR. The tranny would skip 1-2-3 and go right into 4th? After driving like this to my coffee stop, I would come out the tranny light would be off and the tranny would catch all gears properly. This went on for 5 days until one morning (this tuesday = really cold), the tranny light was on all day long and no 1,2, or 3?

Immeadiately I took it to my old Scot Bimmer specialists (old dealer guys) and they said probably low fliud. Left the car over night they scanned the error code, checked the fliud and it was two "cups" low = not the problem. The error code came up as "transmission pressure" but what does that mean? Even they didn't know!

The car was kept indoors that night and when he test drove it in the morning, it ran fine? But after being left outside all day the problem came back, no 1, 2 or 3?

There are no leaks and fluid is proper and they don't know what to do? Anybody out there have any ideas? Please advise ... I miss my car! Thanks!!!

I am having the same issue...or I was, rather, and am now having it again. I was having all sorts of shifing problems, but no transmission light (I think I have a "simpler version" of the on-board computer, not that I could read it in German anyway).

I took my '92 325i 4 door to our local "self help" garage for a look when it started doing this, as I had owned it exactly 2 weeks at that point. The seller told me that he'd had the transmission serviced just before I bought it (warning lights, anyone?). With the tranny good and warm, I lifted the car and opened the check plug (no dipstick, which still baffles me). Fluid did come out...so I replaced the plug, dropped the car and started it. After going through the gears slowly, I re-raised the car, opened the plug and filled the pan the best I could (a creative process without a pump, since the plug is flat on the bottom of the pan - I actually cut a hole in the fluid bottle lid and "squirted" the fluid in by squeezing the bottle). After dropping the car, everything was wonderful again for the next two months.

Recently, we've had a cold snap, and the tranny started acting up again. I have no leaks, so I am confused by this myself. I surrendered and took it to a shop, and they are quoting me 2400 Euro for a rebuild (I gave $3K for the car!). I guess I assumed that buying a German car in Germany would be a little less expensive to maintain (wrong!).

I've read some things in other forums about speed sensors causing this problem...with intermittent electrical problems, I don't know if the diagnostic computers will catch everything or not.

I spoke to the mechanic today, and I'll be out of commission 3-4 weeks. They told me that my tranny was a 5HP18 (A5S 310Z), but my 325i is not, to my knowledge, an M3. Like an idiot, I did not use the dealer, so this dealer removed/shipped my transmission for diagnosis and possible rebuild. I'm not sure how they can diagnose all the high-tech circuitry and preclude any of those parts being my problem.

Anyone know for certain what tranny should be in this car? Is is a 1992 325i 4 door automatic, with an electric switch for "3-mode" operation (Sport, Economy and Traction, I think).

Thanks!

[amarentic]

I am having the same issue...or I was, rather, and am now having it again. I was having all sorts of shifing problems, but no transmission light (I think I have a "simpler version" of the on-board computer, not that I could read it in German anyway).

I took my '92 325i 4 door to our local "self help" garage for a look when it started doing this, as I had owned it exactly 2 weeks at that point. The seller told me that he'd had the transmission serviced just before I bought it (warning lights, anyone?). With the tranny good and warm, I lifted the car and opened the check plug (no dipstick, which still baffles me). Fluid did come out...so I replaced the plug, dropped the car and started it. After going through the gears slowly, I re-raised the car, opened the plug and filled the pan the best I could (a creative process without a pump, since the plug is flat on the bottom of the pan - I actually cut a hole in the fluid bottle lid and "squirted" the fluid in by squeezing the bottle). After dropping the car, everything was wonderful again for the next two months.

Recently, we've had a cold snap, and the tranny started acting up again. I have no leaks, so I am confused by this myself. I surrendered and took it to a shop, and they are quoting me 2400 Euro for a rebuild (I gave $3K for the car!). I guess I assumed that buying a German car in Germany would be a little less expensive to maintain (wrong!).

I've read some things in other forums about speed sensors causing this problem...with intermittent electrical problems, I don't know if the diagnostic computers will catch everything or not.

I spoke to the mechanic today, and I'll be out of commission 3-4 weeks. They told me that my tranny was a 5HP18 (A5S 310Z), but my 325i is not, to my knowledge, an M3. Like an idiot, I did not use the dealer, so this dealer removed/shipped my transmission for diagnosis and possible rebuild. I'm not sure how they can diagnose all the high-tech circuitry and preclude any of those parts being my problem.

Anyone know for certain what tranny should be in this car? Is is a 1992 325i 4 door automatic, with an electric switch for "3-mode" operation (Sport, Economy and Traction, I think).

Thanks!

Hey Bravo10000, my Scotchmen bimmer specialists have seemed to have figured out my problem. Apparently all it need was a tranny flush and new fliud AND filter ($286.35 CDN taxes in). Apparently the filter was the original from 92 and the fluid was more than likely the original fluid as well (I've owned my car since 2000 and have put on more than 200,000 km on it and NEVER touched the tranny).

Over time things do break down filters, fluids, etc. and they just need replacing. In all my years with my baby i have never had to open up the engine or tranny for anything mechanical - seals/gaskets occasionally (this being the first for the tranny and they found no metal shavings in my pans)

One piece of advise from the Scotchmen @ Thorold Imports - the tranny fluid level is to be checked with the BMW scanner from a cold start only and the plug is to be pulled out ONLY once the tranny temp is @ 35 degrees. This allows for proper fluid expansion to give an accurate reading. This could be total BS but I trust these guys with my baby and they have NEVER let me down - they are all semi-retired and live and breath old bimmer's!

By the way, I've thought about the dipstick dilemma too, according to the Scotchmen, it's to stop idiots from over filling the tranny and blowing the seals - it actually makes sense because I've done it myself when is was 16!

Hope this helps?

[Bravo10000]

Hey Bravo10000, my Scotchmen bimmer specialists have seemed to have figured out my problem. Apparently all it need was a tranny flush and new fliud AND filter ($286.35 CDN taxes in). Apparently the filter was the original from 92 and the fluid was more than likely the original fluid as well (I've owned my car since 2000 and have put on more than 200,000 km on it and NEVER touched the tranny).

Over time things do break down filters, fluids, etc. and they just need replacing. In all my years with my baby i have never had to open up the engine or tranny for anything mechanical - seals/gaskets occasionally (this being the first for the tranny and they found no metal shavings in my pans)

One piece of advise from the Scotchmen @ Thorold Imports - the tranny fluid level is to be checked with the BMW scanner from a cold start only and the plug is to be pulled out ONLY once the tranny temp is @ 35 degrees. This allows for proper fluid expansion to give an accurate reading. This could be total BS but I trust these guys with my baby and they have NEVER let me down - they are all semi-retired and live and breath old bimmer's!

By the way, I've thought about the dipstick dilemma too, according to the Scotchmen, it's to stop idiots from over filling the tranny and blowing the seals - it actually makes sense because I've done it myself when is was 16!

Hope this helps?

Well thanks!

Incidentally, though, I did take it for a "full service" fluid change/flush, but that didn't solve my issue at all. Mine has 160K kilometers on it. When I checked my fluid the first time, I did get the temp to between 30-50 Celcius as recommended...

One other thing, though - I read that these transmissions were designed to have "lifetime fluid"...a bit of an optimistic approach, I think...but I suppose we'll see what happens once mine is opened. I'll be certain to post the results.

I've read about and experienced some of the quirks with this model that I'll pass on. The "lock it twice" electric door lock issue among them, which I am also having - that isn't a real big deal. I also have a warning coming up on the trip computer telling me "Bremslicht Electrik - Betriebsanleitung" - translates to brake lights, but they seem to be working fine. I guess the original brake light switch on the brake pedal can be problematic. Then there's an occasional coolant leak - I think my radiator is cracked on the top, and lucky me, it is plastic on the top so no brazing to fix it. It leaks down just far enough to warn me at startup, then the warning goes away. Lastly, I think I have a worn wheel bearing on the front right - a little louder when turning left, and it doesn't stop when I brake.

Overall the car runs great, these other issues are relatively minor and I'll fix most on occasional weekends.

[Bravo10000]

Hey Amarentic -

Looks like I get the car back this week - finally - and the good folks at the repair shop told me something interesting.

The 5HP18 that was delivered in my 325i apparently has a history of tranny problems that are attributed to an undersized transmission oil pan. This low amount of fluid has been said to contribute to early/inordinate wear. He tells me that this is at least one big reason that the BMW automatics see so many problems at 100-130k miles. I thought it was a bit strange, but it starts to make sense when I hear that (a) you had issues at a mere 2 cups low, and (b) a half-quart seemed to temporarily resolve my issues (same amount by my math). Of course, he was passing this information on from a separate shop that does trannys exclusively, and being here in Germany, I presume that the lion's share of their experience is with Bimmers and Benzs.

To my dismay, this ended up being a complete rebuild - costing me as much as the car is worth. The rebuilt tranny, however, is being delivered with an aftermarket "performance" pan. A little late in the game, maybe, but thought I would pass it on anyway. I don't know if the transmissions vary between US/Euro spec'd BMWs (mine is German specs), so it may or may not apply. I also don't know if it will affect ground clearance - I'll give 'er a look when I get it back.



Hey Bravo10000, my Scotchmen bimmer specialists have seemed to have figured out my problem. Apparently all it need was a tranny flush and new fliud AND filter ($286.35 CDN taxes in). Apparently the filter was the original from 92 and the fluid was more than likely the original fluid as well (I've owned my car since 2000 and have put on more than 200,000 km on it and NEVER touched the tranny).

Over time things do break down filters, fluids, etc. and they just need replacing. In all my years with my baby i have never had to open up the engine or tranny for anything mechanical - seals/gaskets occasionally (this being the first for the tranny and they found no metal shavings in my pans)

One piece of advise from the Scotchmen @ Thorold Imports - the tranny fluid level is to be checked with the BMW scanner from a cold start only and the plug is to be pulled out ONLY once the tranny temp is @ 35 degrees. This allows for proper fluid expansion to give an accurate reading. This could be total BS but I trust these guys with my baby and they have NEVER let me down - they are all semi-retired and live and breath old bimmer's!

By the way, I've thought about the dipstick dilemma too, according to the Scotchmen, it's to stop idiots from over filling the tranny and blowing the seals - it actually makes sense because I've done it myself when is was 16!

Hope this helps?

[JonE]

[QUOTE=Bravo10000]Hey Amarentic -

Looks like I get the car back this week - finally - and the good folks at the repair shop told me something interesting.

The 5HP18 that was delivered in my 325i apparently has a history of tranny problems that are attributed to an undersized transmission oil pan. This low amount of fluid has been said to contribute to early/inordinate wear. He tells me that this is at least one big reason that the BMW automatics see so many problems at 100-130k miles. I thought it was a bit strange, but it starts to make sense when I hear that (a) you had issues at a mere 2 cups low, and (b) a half-quart seemed to temporarily resolve my issues (same amount by my math). Of course, he was passing this information on from a separate shop that does trannys exclusively, and being here in Germany, I presume that the lion's share of their experience is with Bimmers and Benzs.

To my dismay, this ended up being a complete rebuild - costing me as much as the car is worth. The rebuilt tranny, however, is being delivered with an aftermarket "performance" pan.

Have them send the old pan back to you so you can compare them...

[Bravo10000]

Just heard something from my (soon to be former) mechanic that makes no sense to me.

My mechanic calls me about my 92 325i, I have had it in the shop for 7 long weeks now. They've rebuilt my tranny completely, said the clutch was destroyed by driving in "limp home mode". The cause, as he stated, puzzles me. I had the ghost brake light OBC message concurrently, on and off, but my tranny was "limping" even when I had no "check engine" light.

He tells me that one of the ignition coils going out may have caused my transmission problem? I've read plenty of posts about the ignition coils in the 92 E36, but nothing that ties it to transmission problems! Does this make any sense at all to anyone else? Granted, I am more of an old school shadetree mechanic, and even then I didn't get too far beyond the basics...but can these really be wired that tightly together? Or is just a local national trying to give the the American a cold, hard one?

Equally as troubling is his statement that he can't isolate which coil is going out, and trying to sell me all 6 at 68 Euro (about 85 bucks) each - or saying that I'll have to wait until he can get a coil to test with, subbing out one by one until he finds the bad one. Sounds like BS to me - weigh in? Aren't these just wires, basically?

[shogun]

Your car does not have a CEL light, this is only for U.S. specification cars, as it was required by the environmental regulations.

If you have a tranny problem in Germany, go straight to a ZF repair shop instead to a dealer. The BMW dealer just sends it to ZF for repair and just marks up his commission.
There are also plenty of remanufactured transmissions available in Germany.
Here are some 5HP 18 for around 1000 EURO with 6 months warranty
http://stores.ebay.de/AUTO-SB_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ2QQtZkm

Used parts you will find here
http://search.ebay.de/BMW-E30_Auto-Motorrad_W0QQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompareQQcoentryp ageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfcclZ1QQfclZ4QQfromZR10QQ fsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQga10244Z10425QQsac atZ9800
You also can ask on the German E30 board if someone has spare parts available you need.
http://e30-talk.com/index2.php?
For sure someone understands English if you do not speak German

Coils:
Aren't these just wires, basically?


It is not that easy, you need an osciliograph for that to read the curves.
Go to a Bosch shop, they are specialized in electrics/electronics and have the equipment to test them, and they also have coils, as they usually are made by Bosch.

[Bravo10000]

Your car does not have a CEL light, this is only for U.S. specification cars, as it was required by the environmental regulations.

I do have a light on the console...an amber light that just says "Check". I worked on the trunk wiring harness yesterday, and I think my bogus brake light warning is resolved...but I still have the "lock 'em twice" door lock issue.

If you have a tranny problem in Germany, go straight to a ZF repair shop instead to a dealer. The BMW dealer just sends it to ZF for repair and just marks up his commission.
There are also plenty of remanufactured transmissions available in Germany.
Here are some 5HP 18 for around 1000 EURO with 6 months warranty
http://stores.ebay.de/AUTO-SB_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ2QQtZkm

Thanks! Wish I had asked this 2 months ago - I have now paid double for this car. He ended up selling me used coils and replacing the valve cover gasket. I am handy enough to do this stuff, but lack the facilities as home and my landlord is crazy about his pavestone driveway. We have a really nice "auto hobby shop" at three different bases in town, I suppose I could have done the work there.

Used parts you will find here
http://search.ebay.de/BMW-E30_Auto-Motorrad_W0QQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompareQQcoentryp ageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfcclZ1QQfclZ4QQfromZR10QQ fsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQga10244Z10425QQsac atZ9800
You also can ask on the German E30 board if someone has spare parts available you need.
http://e30-talk.com/index2.php?
For sure someone understands English if you do not speak German

You mentioned the E30 board? I thought the 92 325i that I am driving was an E36? Or am I just reading too much in to this?

Coils:

It is not that easy, you need an osciliograph for that to read the curves.
Go to a Bosch shop, they are specialized in electrics/electronics and have the equipment to test them, and they also have coils, as they usually are made by Bosch.

Yep - he gave me the old coils, and they are Bosch.

Thank you for your reply, I am sure that I'll bug you again in the near future...

[Bravo10000]

Your car does not have a CEL light, this is only for U.S. specification cars, as it was required by the environmental regulations.


I do have a light on the console...an amber light that just says "Check". I worked on the trunk wiring harness yesterday, and I think my bogus brake light warning is resolved...but I still have the "lock 'em twice" door lock issue.


If you have a tranny problem in Germany, go straight to a ZF repair shop instead to a dealer. The BMW dealer just sends it to ZF for repair and just marks up his commission.
There are also plenty of remanufactured transmissions available in Germany.
Here are some 5HP 18 for around 1000 EURO with 6 months warranty
http://stores.ebay.de/AUTO-SB_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQpZ2QQtZkm .

Thanks! Wish I had asked this 2 months ago - I have now paid double for this car. He ended up selling me used coils and replacing the valve cover gasket. I am handy enough to do this stuff, but lack the facilities as home and my landlord is crazy about his pavestone driveway. We have a really nice "auto hobby shop" at three different bases in town, I suppose I could have done the work there.


Used parts you will find here
http://search.ebay.de/BMW-E30_Auto-Motorrad_W0QQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompareQQcoentryp ageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfcclZ1QQfclZ4QQfromZR10QQ fsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQga10244Z10425QQsac atZ9800
You also can ask on the German E30 board if someone has spare parts available you need.
http://e30-talk.com/index2.php?
For sure someone understands English if you do not speak German.

You mentioned the E30 board? I thought the 92 325i that I am driving was an E36? Or am I just reading too much in to this?


Coils:

It is not that easy, you need an osciliograph for that to read the curves.
Go to a Bosch shop, they are specialized in electrics/electronics and have the equipment to test them, and they also have coils, as they usually are made by Bosch.



Yep - he gave me the old coils, and they are Bosch.

Thank you for your reply, I am sure that I'll bug you again in the near future...

[Ohtori]

Bravo10000,

Your 5HP 18/A5S 310R tranny is a 5-spd, unlike the THM-R1/A4S 310R 4-spd here in Canada/US; Europe and Japan got the 5-spd in 1992.

Just for the record, using the 7 digit code you can decode the meaning to this:
A-Automatic trans.
5-Number of forward gears
S-Overdrive
310-Maximum torque rating (Nm)
Z-Manufacturer code letter (Z for ZF, R for General Motors PowerTrain, J for Jatco).

My 325i also exhibits the same symptom you describe; the brake warning light, 'lock it twice', and I've got a leaking coolant overflow bottle (only if you fill it to the top). I've had the brake warning light come on and off without doing anything---it was even present in the test drive when I bought it in Oct. 2005. I finally got around to checking it, and the bulb seemed fine---but after getting repeated warnings, I closely inspected it to find that there was a broken filiment! It seems that it would reweld itself together and work as the distance between the break was a fraction of a millimeter. I also get a licence plate light warning, but it only affects the right light. It seemed to self correct and the resistance of the wiring seemed fine, as well as the bulb holder and the bulb itself. Except when I removed what seemed to be a factory wire that some attached to the brown ground wire and then to the body, it doesn't work anymore. I replaced the light to make sure it wasn't a bad bulb, but it didn't make a difference. Further investigation of the trunk wiring is in order.

About the 'lock it twice', that started this winter after the lock seemed to get stiff and hard to operate. A little lubrication freed up the lock, but it seemed to make it sensitive to locking. I found that if you return the key slowly to the vertical position from locking that it doesn't unlock and require the second attempt. I guess it's wear in the mechanism that's making it sensitive.

And after working on the cooling system (more than once), I noticed that refilling the coolant bottle to the top as required causes the top part of the bottle to weep coolant, until the system self-bleeds and the coolant level goes down and it stops. I guess there must be a bad seal between the top cover in the bottle.

And one question; if you have a '92 325i, how can the production month be 11/90? Don't you mean 11/91?

[Bravo10000]

Bravo10000,

And one question; if you have a '92 325i, how can the production month be 11/90? Don't you mean 11/91?

Nope - it's right on the German "title book". My presumption is that they built it in '90 to sell in '91 as the new '92 model (just as you can start buying 2007 models very soon, but they may have actualy been built in late '05). That's just my guess, it threw me off as well.


I've had the brake warning light come on and off without doing anything---it was even present in the test drive when I bought it in Oct. 2005.

Apparently, the brake light switch in many BMW models from this era have been problematic, 3 and 5 series alike. There's plenty about it here and on the roadfly forums. Read on at http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e36/7418421-3.html.


About the 'lock it twice', that started this winter after the lock seemed to get stiff and hard to operate. A little lubrication freed up the lock, but it seemed to make it sensitive to locking. I found that if you return the key slowly to the vertical position from locking that it doesn't unlock and require the second attempt. I guess it's wear in the mechanism that's making it sensitive.

I have read a lot about this on the forums...the trunk lock seems to be the central fault. Check for a broken wire under the left rear trunk hinge (the harness is in a rubber conduit that you'll have to cut open to get to), paying close attention to a blue/white wire. If the wires don't fix it, then the problem is likely a faulty microswitch in the trunk lock. I spliced my wires (and so had the previous owner), but that did not solve the issue. I'm just not worried about it enough to bother with microswitches, so for now, I just lock 'er twice...

[Ohtori]

Actually, replacing my bulb cured the brake light warning problem (it really was a broken filament), and today my licence plate light warning has self-cured, even after multiply starts! This warning always lit up on start for the last week, ever since I tried solving it and removed the 'mystery wire' mentioned before.

Thanks for the tip about the rear trunk lock, as I have noticed some irregularities in locking a couple of times, like having all the doors locked and the trunk still open, or opening the trunk and the doors don't unlock. But at this time, I don't think I'll do any surgery on the trunk wiring harness, as it's not a nuisance yet.