95 540i - best bang for the buck

[Loppy]

Yes, I searched for an hour and nothing was specific to my general question. so please, help a newb out. Stoked I found the site, you guys kick ass.

Subject: I just picked up a 95 540i with sport seats, 6 speed manual. It was super clean and everything works, no issues. She idles smooth as glass. There is a little rumble between 2000-3000 rpm, but is smooth under and over that. I'm suspecting a vaccum leak, prolly the PCV. no big deal. she has 149K miles on her and it's been a California car all its life. I'm 3rd owner. Clean Carfax.

A. what problems should look for? what seems to be problematic on this car?

B. What performance mods would you do? I'm thinking cat back exhaust, airbox and chip. I want a little more go, yet keep reliability in tact.

Appreciate any input. Ive had an old 87 535 for years. This is a whole new ballgame!

[angrypancake]

welcome... thats a good find, post some pics!

[hakwuzhere]

Im not terribly technical... but do a search on Nikasil and Alusil.. that should be the first place to look... most people will also reccomend you have a leakdown test done (dunno what it is! but thats what I read!).

Oh, and pics.... TTIWWOP!

[BlueM60]

Congrats Loppy, Ive also got a 95 540i, mine is slushbox though, but I absolutely love the car. Like you said your in a different ballgame now with an E34 AND a V8. If you keep intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets on it, it will run for a long time and be leak free. Post some pics whenever you can. Ive got pics of mine but for some reason cant post them..
-Ben

[SRR2]

It's probably not worth getting all worked up about the Nikasil issue at this point. If the engine is running well, as yours seems to be, your car has dodged the bullet. The way to keep it that way is to make sure you use low sulfur gas. Good luck however trying to determine how much sulfur is in the gas available to you with the post Katrina revenue enhancement ^w^w formulation requirements relaxation program. There was a BMW program to replace nikasil engines with alusil but that's long since expired.

As far as a chip goes, there's not a whole lot of options there. The engine is already running close to optimum so there's not a lot of room for electronic tweaks. Do NOT mess with the airbox. Not one of the aftermarket suppliers of "cold air intakes" (which you already have) has ever shown certified, independent verification of any power increase.

IMO, if you'd like a bit more exhaust note, that's a reasonable thing to tackle.

You might want to change out the cabin air filter. Search for instructions on how to do that -- it's a bit of work. Chances are that yours is cruddy.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Congrats, the 540/6 is a sweet car, I should know. Don't worry about Nikasil, it runs well so you're probably ok. You already own it anyway, so it's too late to worry about it. Chip is really the only one that will gain you any HP, supposedly 15 or so. Lots of guys here like EAT, and they're a sponsor too. I have a Jim C, but it was in the car so I can't give you a before and after. Cat back will give you a nice sound, but no more power, and a intake is a waste of time. The only thing a K&N will give you is oil on your MAF, which you will then have to periodically clean. BMW's factory intakes are very good, and you really can't improve on them. Other than that, you seem to know about the PCV plate and intake gaskets, do the vac lines while you're under there. Shimmy at 55 or so is upper thrust arm bushings, a problem all E34s have. Check all your intake pipes for leaks and loose connections, that can throw off the idle. Also, cleaning the ICV, TB, and MAF is worthwhile.

[SRR2]

How is your 'chip' installed in your ECU? The older Motronics were easy with the socketed EPROM, and later ones could be programmed through the OBD port, except for the latest ones that require physical unsoldering of the ROM. Your car falls somewhere in the middle of the EPROM and OBDII type.

Do you have a link to actual before/after data on your ECU upgrade? Since the engine is already tuned for premium, how much room can there be for a programming only upgrade? Although Jim C is pretty credible. I had one of his upgrades in my '98 M-roadster and the effects were dramatic. That engine ran nominally on regular though and after the upgrade it required premium. That's why I'm wondering how much room there is for improvement when it's already tuned for premium.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Actually, it's tuned for 89. Here's a link to Jim C info, they're sold many places.

https://secure13.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=bimmerworl&BusType=BtoC&Count1=682567775&Count2=599708199&CategoryID=6&Target=products.asp

They show a gain of 19 HP and 33 lb ft. No dyno charts though. Give Mark D's EAT chips a chance first though, lots of guys seem to like his products better.

http://www.dsylva-tech.ca/

As for the chip, it's socketed. E34 540 is OBD 1, so we're just before the programmers. Should be a pretty quick mod, I had mine all apart to check my chip in under 10 minutes.

[632 Regal]

marks chip is a little more on edge and not taylored to every country in the world and you will get a bit more performance from them for your car.

[digitaldragon03]

The thing that bugs me about the Jim C chip is that the numbers are all wrong.

For the 540, he claims 19hp increase: Stock 282 / Chip 296 --- thats 14, not 19

Torque claim is 33 ft/lbs: Stock 277 / Chip 292 ---thats 15, not 33. Not only that, but stock torque is 295, where the heck did 277 come from? If the chip really does put out 292, the we lost 3 ft/lbs.

Seems odd to me.

[632 Regal]

go with the EAT...I havent heard 1 single problem with them, all good results. the 530 chip isnt dont yet.

[632 Regal]

bacicly who cares, you get more from the EAT than the JC chip, youir choice.
I have the JC chip and Marks preliminary chip did a LOT more at lower and higher rpms.

you have a choice.

[

[SRR2]

I know of no software upgrade for my car. It has an M62TU engine, OBDII. If there were anything, it would require rework of the ECU and there's no way I'm going to do that. I'm really surprised to hear that those early M60s specify regular gas. Lucky you.

[DueyT]

Stock E34's actually spec'd mid-grade...my owner's manual states 89 AKI (vice regualr 87 AKI). Going to the EAT chip requires 91 but the improvement in mileage (when one's right foot isn't into it ;) ) more than makes up for the extra amount premium is over mid-grade, IMO.

Mark, definitely knows what he's doing...I'm still running a prototype M60B40 non-EWS chip that Mark sent me to field trial, since he was bang on the mark and went straight into production, IIRC.

Cheers,
Duey

p.s. Welcome to the 540/6 club, Loppy!

[onewhippedpuppy]

The thing that bugs me about the Jim C chip is that the numbers are all wrong.

For the 540, he claims 19hp increase: Stock 282 / Chip 296 --- thats 14, not 19

Torque claim is 33 ft/lbs: Stock 277 / Chip 292 ---thats 15, not 33. Not only that, but stock torque is 295, where the heck did 277 come from? If the chip really does put out 292, the we lost 3 ft/lbs.

Seems odd to me.

Good eye, I only copied the numbers from the increase column.

[l8apex]

Remove the airbox (2 bolts on fender and large scew clamp for hoses) after removing plastic shield to right of radiator. Look into the intake end. If the opening gets narrower as you go futher into the airbox, there is a restrictor in place. You can remove it easily to open up the intake channel. Consider a short piece of thinwall tubing to extend intake further forward a few inches.

Best bang for the buck power-wise is a lower (higher numerically) differential gearset. I'm running a 3.46:1 (with Quaiffe ATS unit $$$), and it makes a world of difference. The car comes with a 2.93:1 gearset, which is great for gas mileage and works OK since the engine has so much low-end grunt. A lower ratio gearset will decrease maximum MPH, but who can use 200MPH anyway? Contact Brett Anderson at Koala Motorsports www.koalamotorsport.com (http://www.koalamotorsport.com) with questions. He won't lead you astray.

If the suspension hasn't been cared for to this point, you will definitely need front thrust-arm bushings, probaby also need front and rear anti-sway bar links and front control arm bushings, maybe new rear subframe mounts, rear Pittman arms, ball joints, tie rod ends. Have an alignment shop check it. If you want more of a performance-tuned suspension, look first to replace the thrust arm bushings with urethane, or 750i bushings. See www.bmwe34.net (http://www.bmwe34.net) for details. There are many options for upgrades, especially brakes. I have a big brake upgrade kit (front AND rear) from Ireland Engineering www.bmw2002.com (http://www.bmw2002.com) that uses Corvette alloy floating calipers that I am quite pleased with. It's a good compromise between price and performance. 17 inch wheels are required.

Motor mounts will go soon. Check for oil in spark plug recesses after removing coil packs. If oil is there, it's no biggie, but think about new valve cover gaskets.

Flush the brakes and coolant. Replace ONLY with BMW coolant and distilled water 50/50 ratio. Do not use silicone brake fluid.

Enjoy your e-34. I bought mine new and will never sell it.

[Loppy]

Man, this is just what I needed. Thank you much buds.

I did some reasearch before buying, and knew about the Nik/Ali issues. And like I said, I did a carfax and the car had two prev. owners, both living in the south SF bay area. nor cali car all the way. And because it had 145K mi. and yet idles so smooth while sitting in the car it's hard to tell the motor is running or not, I knew I could take a chance with this one.

Zero vibration at all at 55 mph by the way, the vibration is directly related to RPM's only, no matter what gear or speed. Right about 2000 rpm, it throws some vibes, then quickly goes away before 3K. :shrug: And when I hop on it in first, specially in a turn, I get a "bump bump" which turns to a feeling like the exhaust is hitting the frame or something. I'm very car savvy (not this particular car) but in general, it feels like a motor mount to me. I did check the bushings up front. It looks like they have already been replaced. the car handles phenominally, dispite the POS 15" stocker wheels. I have some 16" baskets off a 7 series with low prof stickies goning on soon.

She's going into Angelos tomorrow morning for a thorough once over. I want him to run diagnositcs, check for vac leaks and check the motor mounts for me. Some fresh synthetic and dial her in. Sorry no pics, I've been sick with Bronchitis and have not felt like doing much lately. UGGH... Will try and get some tonight.

So, what exhaust do ya'll recommnd? Air box is good, so that is what I'm looking to next. Please, no ricer fart can obnoxious crap. Just a sweet throaty sound.

We'll visit the chip issue later. Sounds like a debate and a toss up on this thread. More research is needed for sure.

Thanks! and glad to be in the 540/6 club. The car is SOOOO fun to drive.

[Loppy]

Oh, one more thing. Local bimmer guru I know hates these cars. Says the motors, in his words "tear themselves apart". Something about head bolts breaking off and getting tangled in cams and 'bam'. Hold water?

[DueyT]

??? M60s and M62s are pretty strong motors...only real gotcha is that the bolts on the oil pump have a nasty habit of backing off...bad enough and you lose oil pressure...not a good thing...most guys catch it by dropping the pan and checking the bolts are properly torqued...next time I'm looking at the bottom end, I may drill the bolt heads and lockwire the pump bolts.

Cheers,
Duey

[632 Regal]

http://www.bearings-specialty.com/images/7sml.gif

[Loppy]

Cool, will check that when I'm down there. Thanks.

[SRR2]

Doesn't ring a bell with me. There was an issue with some M20 motors where the oil spray bar bolts would loosen and end up laying somewhere in the engine's top end. Don't recall hearing anything about the M60/62 like that.

M60s and maybe M62s had a problem with the bolts holding the oil pump in the block that would loosen and fall out. That one is real. See here:

http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e38/6629081-1.html
http://www.kindel.com/bmw/faq/540is_faq.htm
http://strictlybmw.com/newsletter/importantnotices/v8oilpump.htm

There are many references discussing this problem. I just pulled up a couple to give you the flavor of it.

[SRR2]

This discussion sort of piqued my curiousity. Now I'm wondering if I should open up my M62. I found this writeup that seems to sum it up nicely...


Subject: Engine Knocking after Highway Run
From: "Christopher P. Koch" <cpkoch AT earthlink DOT net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 17:36:41 -0400

Dear P.J. Forcino,

I have heard a similar problem with the V8 but under reverse conditions to
yours. One can consider that it is possible they are related.

What I've heard is a knocking until the engine warms up completely. After
checking many items, we finally discovered it was the "infamous M60/M62 V8
oil pump" problem. The oil pump is driven by a chain drive off the
crankshaft. As the chain stretches from age there is more and more
vibration to the oil pump. There is a threaded spacer to adjust the chain
tension.

The vibration that the oil pump is subjected by the chain drive as the chain
loosens can work out the bolts and nuts that hold the oil pump together. We
have found as many as two bolts and a nut in the oil pan! As you can
imagine, oil pressure drops off as the pump loosens up.

So far, we have found that the lack of oil pressure is most obvious when the
oil is cold and thick (as you can imagine, the superior lubricating
viscosity properties of synthetic oil can mask this effect longer).

However, one could readily imagine that the reverse condition is true - a
nice hot run on the highway could thin the oil enough to also loose pressure
for a while.

Your mechanic can check for this problem easily enough by removing the lower
oil pan. If he finds one or more oil pump bolts or nuts in the oil pan or,
to a lesser extent, the bolts have loosened up, he should remove the pump.
There should be no need to disassemble the pump and examine the impellor and
case for wear if synthetic oil has been used (one we checked with 182K miles
looked like new). With your low odometer reading, I wouldn't expect to find
any wear. All the pump bolts and nuts should be cleaned spotless in
solvent, blown dry and Loctite used on the threads (BMW says all the locker
nuts must be replaced). Any threaded holes in the block must be cleaned and
dried as well (including oil pan). He will then need to replace the two
rubber o-rings on the tubes connecting the pump to the block. Use 8 ft-lbs
on the oil pump cover, 16 ft-lbs on oil pump mounting nuts and 35 ft-lbs on
the sprocket nut.

The oil pump chain should have 8 - 12mm (10mm ideal) play when pushed from
one side to the other at the midpoint of the chain.

He will need a new pan gasket as well as sealer for both sides of the gasket
when installed (do not allow sealer to ooze inside the pan). Have him
tighten up the oil pan bolts from the center-out on both sides finger tight,
then torque them to 8 ft-lbs, again from the center out. I also recommend a
drop of Loctite on each of the bolt threads.

---------------------------------------

Another knocking that happens from underneath the car in the forward
console/firewall area is the driveshaft, especially when it is warmed up.
The rubber rear transmission mounts fail from a combination of age (yours
are 8 years old), heat and oil leaking on them. When you come off the
highway and brake, accelerate or turn the transmission shifts position and
the driveshaft can rub against the tunnel.

When your driveshaft gets older (typically 55 - 65K miles, the center
bearing will fail and the rubbing condition will be much worse. The
"classic" BMW test is to make a U turn in a four lane road while
accelerating. The driveshaft will announce itself loud and clear.

Yours,
Chris Koch
Buffalo, New York

[marckula]

definitely swap out those thrust arms and control arms (try to get stiffer bushings for them too like the 750i has), then get sport billsteins and some good springs (i like my bavauto springs - they lower the car but don't stiffen the ride too much) also, grab some of those rear sub-frame inserts from racingking.ca. while you're at it, flush / replace all fluids so you have a new baseline to base your future service intervals off of. and change your fuel filter and AC microfilter.

dont touch your exhaust or intake setup unless you're turbo/supercharging. the stock intake and exhauset are fine, you're not going to notice much by changing those.

replace your headlight bulbs too and get new wipers.

just get those basic maintenance things out of the way first. and post some pictures.

- marc

[632 Regal]

get sport billsteins and some good springs (i like my bavauto springs - they lower the car but don't stiffen the ride too much)
- marc.

[DueyT]

http://www.bearings-specialty.com/images/7sml.gif

Jeff, why use that when I've got a drill press in the garage and some .045" lockwire sitting around? :D

Cheers,
Duey

[540i/6 rob]

as others have said - skip the air box, the chip is a nice step, and the exhaust - when done right - makes for a great sound without maddening the neighbors. mine rattles the windows in the house when you start the car in the (detached) garage, but you have to try pretty hard to hear the car at all from the same distance. if you're considering an exhaust swap however - i should warn that the difference will be more in the sound than the performance. the supersprint exhaust sounds great and fits as well as the oem system or better. mine is almost 5 years old and sounds and looks as good as day 1. my chip is from dinan, as is the air box, but both pre-existed my ownership - i would have installed the air box only if they had given it to me. people here rave about the EAT chip... that's always a good sign. if you're still on the stock 15" wheels, wheels and tires always make a big bang difference... an opinion - stick with 17" rather than going any bigger for the best mix of attributes - but you know about opinions. ALSO... i've heard that the racing dynamics sway bars are discontinued. mine are on the car from before the drama about copyright infringement etc. that they went through and are the original legitimate bars. i'm not sure if the ones that would be on close-out would be the "replicas" or several year old originals, but visually they seem to be exactly the same, and they certainly made a difference. you may be able to get "a bargain" either through bavarian autospport or directly from electrodyne. obviously you want to make sure that fluids, belts and other wear and common failure items are refreshed before you bother with any upgrades just for a solid foundation. as with anything "project" - do plenty of research before you spend a dime and you'll end up with the best for the least. good luck with all - rob.

[winfred]

about the only thing i've seen hammer a m60 is sucking water through the varly low intake on a e38, the broken rods almost saw the block in half, just got done doing another


Oh, one more thing. Local bimmer guru I know hates these cars. Says the motors, in his words "tear themselves apart". Something about head bolts breaking off and getting tangled in cams and 'bam'. Hold water?

[Loppy]

Great, great stuff fellas. I'm all over it. Starting initial tear down and re-fluid today. Once I get her sorted out, pics and before/after feelings comming.