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Jesda
01-27-2006, 04:27 AM
1990 525i

Is it possible to remove the actuator and lock/unlock the door manually? If I remove one actuator, do I need to remove them all? I'm considering going with aftermarket central locking.

Thanks!
-Jesda

pundit
01-27-2006, 04:40 AM
1990 525i

Is it possible to remove the actuator and lock/unlock the door manually? If I remove one actuator, do I need to remove them all? I'm considering going with aftermarket central locking.

Thanks!
-Jesda
?????????!!!

Jesda
01-27-2006, 05:46 AM
From what I understood by searching this forum, the power locks are controlled by electric actuators. By removing the actuators, can I then use the locks manually?

My concern is that by removing only one, the faulty one, the remaining network of power locks will not function properly because they are all on one circuit.

Paul in NZ
01-27-2006, 05:59 PM
is the drivers one bad.....and you get the car unlocking or locking after an attempted lock or unlock???You might try switching the driver and passenger.Or a new actuator I dont think they are too bad $$$$

Jesda
01-27-2006, 06:21 PM
The driver side actuator, I think, is bad or jammed. So far I have removed the door panel but still need to buy a Torx30 and remove the actuator entirely.

I'll keep poking around.

pundit
01-27-2006, 06:49 PM
The driver side actuator, I think, is bad or jammed. So far I have removed the door panel but still need to buy a Torx30 and remove the actuator entirely.

I'll keep poking around.
Better off fixing the problem you have rather than creating a whole lot more by changing everything. ;)

Blitzkrieg Bob
01-27-2006, 07:53 PM
The BMW central locking system is easier to fix than most cars I've worked on.

The door panel is a little tricky, but the inside of the door has room to work in, and the actuator right there, easy to get at..and not in some remote corner of the door...plus those self extracting plugs are so cool.

The system also double locks everything, including the ignition. So replacing one actuator is much less of a job, then trying the redo the system with an after market kit.

Good luck

Jesda
01-27-2006, 11:14 PM
I got the T30 bit and loosened the latch assembly from the front door. Unfortunately, its all behind the guide rail used by the window. In addition, some metal rod its hanging on is making it impossible to remove. Any tips?

Much appreciated.

Paul in NZ
01-28-2006, 12:33 AM
use the search function...i am sure that tis was covered fairly recently and there is a very detailed write up

Jesda
01-28-2006, 12:45 AM
Yep, spent a few hours last night and this morning searching. 200+ results, so I'll keep looking.

Edit: Found. :)
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=9799&highlight=replacing+actuator

KB535i
01-28-2006, 12:49 AM
be sure to let us know so we dont have to work so hard. :)

Kalevera
01-28-2006, 02:34 AM
Oy...okay.

The "metal rod" is the most critical part of the whole assembly, as it's what transfers the motion of the actuator to the lock mechanism.

You have the early style lock actuator, so it's a bit easier to remove than the later ones discussed in that thread. Roll the window up if you haven't already. Reach in there and disconnect the wiring harness connector first. Then you'll have the range of motion to unhook the actuator from the rod.

Incidentally, if this is the front driver door actuator: with the rod disconnected and the harness connector plugged in, you can easily check the operation of the actuator by pushing the white end (the "metal rod" side) in or out. The car should lock and unlock, accordingly. If it doesn't, you know your problem isn't physical/in the lock mechanism. You could try replacing the actuator, and it might solve the problem...they do fail.


best, whit

Jesda
01-28-2006, 03:16 AM
The hilarity of this is that I confused the lock mechanism at the latch with the actuator near the top of the door mechanism. I'm glad I didnt start yanking and pulling like a mad man.

Here's a video clip of my actuator in action (hah!). Does it seem normal?
http://q.spilky.com/nicothread/bmwlock.mov

The rod that connects to the mechanism doesn't seem to be moving all the way?
http://q.spilky.com/nicothread/bmwlock.jpg

Thanks