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Hallmark
01-05-2006, 10:32 AM
Since I got the 528 as my daily driver I've been letting my daughter drive my 525. She's 19 and a pretty good driver...I thought. In a moment of total...call it what you will, she decided to drive straight out of a parking space and drove over a cement parking bumper. She went over to her boyfriend's house and as she was getting ready to leave the boyfriend looks down and notices a pool of oil coming out from under the car.

She scraped the bottom off the oil pan and opened a big crack down one side. She also scraped metal off the lower control arms, but at least those I can pick up from BMA.

So...anyone got a line on a good used oil pan for a '95 525?

dacoyote
01-05-2006, 10:35 AM
Since I got the 528 as my daily driver I've been letting my daughter drive my 525. She's 19 and a pretty good driver...I thought. In a moment of total...call it what you will, she decided to drive straight out of a parking space and drove over a cement parking bumper. She went over to her boyfriend's house and as she was getting ready to leave the boyfriend looks down and notices a pool of oil coming out from under the car.

She scraped the bottom off the oil pan and opened a big crack down one side. She also scraped metal off the lower control arms, but at least those I can pick up from BMA.

So...anyone got a line on a good used oil pan for a '95 525?

Try Rigmaster.... or Vines

winfred
01-05-2006, 11:52 AM
if it's not too bad (missing pieces) it can be welded try a boat shop that does prop work, the one down the street does them for me $20-40 just clean it before taking it to them

632 Regal
01-05-2006, 11:52 AM
let him use yours until he gets another one.
Try Rigmaster.... or Vines

dacoyote
01-05-2006, 11:55 AM
let him use yours until he gets another one.

Sure... if he comes and pulls it off the car he can...

DaCan23
01-05-2006, 12:48 PM
I killed a renta car once like that.... was dark and raining.... was in a turn only lane by accident and swerved late... jumped a small concrete median and wiped out the pan... car died 5 miles later...


Since I got the 528 as my daily driver I've been letting my daughter drive my 525. She's 19 and a pretty good driver...I thought. In a moment of total...call it what you will, she decided to drive straight out of a parking space and drove over a cement parking bumper. She went over to her boyfriend's house and as she was getting ready to leave the boyfriend looks down and notices a pool of oil coming out from under the car.

She scraped the bottom off the oil pan and opened a big crack down one side. She also scraped metal off the lower control arms, but at least those I can pick up from BMA.

So...anyone got a line on a good used oil pan for a '95 525?

Rigmaster
01-05-2006, 01:04 PM
Those E34M50 pans are in high demand- they are the pan used to install an M50/S50/S52 etc into the E30, so you can expect to pay ~$175-200 at least IF you can find a used one. New pans are available for ~$250-275 or so, I think. Try BMA or one of the other parts suppliers- they probably will not have them on their site, but should be able to get one for you.

I have one, but it's attached to an engine.... :)

Bret

Hallmark
01-05-2006, 01:28 PM
For those prices I think I'll look into fixing what I've got. Winfred, I appreciate the suggestion about the prop welder, but right now I'm thinking along the lines of JB Weld.:D

632 Regal
01-05-2006, 01:34 PM
been there done that, the JB weld gets saturated from the oil and will start leaking within a couple days...but feel free, I might have done a half ass job.

dacoyote
01-05-2006, 01:38 PM
been there done that, the JB weld gets saturated from the oil and will start leaking within a couple days...but feel free, I might have done a half ass job.

I agree... not sure I would trust JB weld on something like that...

DaCan23
01-05-2006, 02:24 PM
Whats the difference between a prop & JB weld? Not familiar with those terms.... all I know about welding is that you need a special one to do aluminum or else you can die

dacoyote
01-05-2006, 02:26 PM
Whats the difference between a prop & JB weld? Not familiar with those terms.... all I know about welding is that you need a special one to do aluminum or else you can die

JB Weld is like super glue for steel.....

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

DaCan23
01-05-2006, 02:35 PM
OMG.... compound on an oil pan no way in hell it'll hold


JB Weld is like super glue for steel.....

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

dacoyote
01-05-2006, 02:38 PM
OMG.... compound on an oil pan no way in hell it'll hold

Yeah.... thats what Jeff and I am saying....

JB weld is some great stuff... but you would be better of with ducktape on it....

632 Regal
01-05-2006, 03:03 PM
JB weld fixes a LOT of messed up stuff, I have repaired more than my share too, its a type of epoxy that gets a LOT harder than normal epoxy, good for pretty hot stuff too but I never had luck with anything related to fluids.

dacoyote
01-05-2006, 03:14 PM
JB weld fixes a LOT of messed up stuff, I have repaired more than my share too, its a type of epoxy that gets a LOT harder than normal epoxy, good for pretty hot stuff too but I never had luck with anything related to fluids.

Same here.... JB Weld is great at what it does...

Rigmaster
01-05-2006, 06:10 PM
I disagree about JB Weld not working. IF you properly prep the pan, and make sure there is no oil in the crack (I hate it when I get oil in my crack....), it will work, and it will last a good while.

Here's what I would do:

1- drain the oil out of the drain plug.
2- jack the car up so the side with the crack is higher than the other, if possible.
3- spray carb or brake cleaner all around the area of the crack, let dry.
4- scuff the area around the crack with a wire brush or a grinding wheel (carefully).
5- Clean the area one more time, let dry.
6- apply properly mixed FRESH JB Weld to the crack, feather it out a bit so it gets a good "bite". Let dry thoroughly before filling engine with oil.


I've done this before, and it does work- but you have to take your time or the repair will not hold- the main reason is if you try to apply it to an oily pan, or you don't get all the oil out of the crack.


Bret.

winfred
01-05-2006, 06:52 PM
i jbweld oil pans all of the time you just need to do it right, my e30 has been jb'd for almost 80k miles, drain the oil and clean clean clean then rough up the area and give it some texture, clean some more and then jb it. lately i've been using jb quick because it sets up in 5-10 minutes (but you still want to give it overnight before adding oil) this reduces the time it can run and sag

Hallmark
01-06-2006, 10:38 AM
Like the suggestion, I drainded the oil and then jacked it up so whatever coated the pan would pool on the opposite side from the crack. Clean with brake cleaner and scrub as deep into the crack as I can. Spackle the crack with JB Weld and let it set overnight.

We'll see how it works.

dacoyote
01-06-2006, 10:41 AM
i jbweld oil pans all of the time you just need to do it right, my e30 has been jb'd for almost 80k miles, drain the oil and clean clean clean then rough up the area and give it some texture, clean some more and then jb it. lately i've been using jb quick because it sets up in 5-10 minutes (but you still want to give it overnight before adding oil) this reduces the time it can run and sag

I stand corrected.... some of the time prep is the most important step....

FWinNH
01-06-2006, 11:15 AM
Just as a point of reference as to what can be done with JB Weld... the "official" procedure published by SAAB for filling pits in the block surface that sometimes occur when a head gasket fails is to fill them with JB Weld and then shave it flush after it dries. Slap a new gasket on and tighten her up.

http://townsendimports.com/Web/cooling_system_folder/2.1jbw.htm

I've never used this procedure, but apparently a lot of SAAB techs have.

DaCan23
01-06-2006, 11:29 AM
Wow while I had never heard of this stuff before this thread, I dismissed its application. Whats the heat rating of it? I'll have to ask pops about it.