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View Full Version : Project ///Monster; pt 3 its OUT!!!!!



TheGeak
03-07-2004, 11:29 PM
Quick update lacking pics.

Today started with my arriving at my parents house to see my friend nick crawling under my car already. When questioned as to what he was doing, he replied "removing the exhaust". So our day was off to a good start with a 15 minute removal of the B&B Triflo exhaust.

From there I set out to seperate tie-rods so we could drop the suspension while Nick began to unbolt the driveshaft. I split the tie-rods with ease with the aide of a wonderful Tie-Rod-Splitter (free, thanks to my grandfather).

Nick completes the drive-shaft removal just as i finish unhooking 1/2 of the sway-bar and control arm mount. We decided to drop the swaybar and control arms together so we could more easily pivot the engine with the tranny attached to get it out.

ONE DAMN BOLT on the pass. side stopped all of our progress. It was a 19mm (IIRC) that i COULD NOT BUDGE. I easily broke its 'mate' free on the drivers side using a 3/8" breaker-bar with a pipe on the end for some added leverage. This one would NOT move even with a 1/2" breaker bar and about a 4' pipe on the end for leverage. WD-40, PB Blaster, nothing touched this bolt. It was then that we decided to take our work topside to focus more on what started this project, the head.

We determine that if we drop the tranny mount and 2 motor mounts we SHOULD be able to swing the engine forward a few inches to allow me to access those rear bolts. So back to the 'flat on my back' position that i've been doing the past day and a half (hold the comments please). Motor mounts come off easy enough and boy are THEY shot! Tranny mount comes off just as easily.

Back topside we hook up the hoist to the 'motor pulling points' (the VERY technical term) and began to crank (carefully, of course) on the hoist. SUCCESS! The engine moves!!! So we hoist it up a few inches and rock it forward. From there i am able to remove the rear cover bolts and release the cam holders.

From here its just a matter of pulling the cam tray! Err, yeah, so we though. Turns out it was time to remove some water-ways and other such riff-raff from the front of the engine. No problem, they come right off. That assembly is removed, and NOW we lift off the cam tray. oooo, we noticed that our lifter want to fall out the bottom. not room enough to get our hands in there to hold them, can't let them fall...can't scuff them by using pliers...hrm! Then my dad comes up with a genius idea. a MAGNET! Using the magnet we are able to pull the lifters out one by one, clean them, label them, and pack them up safely!

Lifters out, we slide the cam tray off easily. we stare at the 24 beautiful valve springs and smile slightly, knowing we're nearing our goal!

next we pulled out our trusty #12 Female-Torx socket and went to work on the 12 head bolts. I afix the socket to the 3/8" breaker bar and prepare for battle. *gets psyched up to exert massive amounts of torque to remove bolts* TURRRRRN....wtf? that was WAAAAAY to easy. of the 12 head bolts, only about 4 had over 50lb/ft of torque, i'm estimating the rest at between 20-35lb/ft. That seems WAY low, and a cause for further investigation. But for now, lets get this thing off!!

All the torx heads are removed, as are the 2 5mm allen bolts on the front and the head is ready to be lift off.

Myself, Nick, My Father, and my Uncle all gather around and prepare to lift this out (we elected to remove it with the exhaust header still attached. after removing 2 more bolts from the heatshield (didn't know why heat-shield bolts to motor mount 'mount' but whatever...)

LIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIFT!!!

SUCCESS!!!!!

The head is free!

block is still in the car, but the most important part of the adventure is free!

So, in summary...heres a list of what i can recall removing from the car.

Tires (front and rear), Calipers(front), intake, intake manifold, throttle bodies, valve cover, cams, cam tray, head, A/C Compressor, Coolant tank, Windshield washer tank, radiator, front bumper cover, grill, kidney grill, hood, exhaust, exhaust manifold, water piping, motor mounts, tranny mount, driveshaft.

Unbolted, but not removed:
control arm, tie rod, sway bar, struts/springs,

I think thats about it. Only real tools used were

Sockets:
10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm

Wrenches:
same as sockets

Allen Key:
5mm, 7mm

Female-Torx:
#12

Channel Locks, Vice Grips, a variety of flat-head screwdrivers, impact gun(electric and air), 3/8" ratchet (manual and air), Acetylne Torch, 1/2" ratched, 3/8" & 1/2" breaker bar, 3ft pipe extension (for leverage), Engine Hoist, Jack, 4 jack stands....

Thats all i can think of for now. I'll update this with pics as soon as i get them.


All in all, this was about a 36 beer job (Bruno has wrench scale, i have beer scale) So split between the 6 of us, thats about 6 beers each.

a HUGE thanks again to Jon K, Alan, Dave, Nick, My Parents, My grandfather, my uncles, and everyone else for their input to the project! Comming soon will be the dreaded Reinstal!! EEK!

Jason

winfred
03-07-2004, 11:40 PM
use new head bolts!!!

Brian C.
03-07-2004, 11:43 PM
....grease under the fingernails this weekend! Great write up of what you did! Good Luck on the re-install!

Brian C.

TheGeak
03-07-2004, 11:45 PM
Win: New head bolts?! what was your first clue?!?!

brian C. Fingernails, hair, back, arms, hands..anywhere else a man can have grease, we have some. I'll post more pics soon and as soon as i find the 'fate' of the head i'll post! All in all this was a GREAT weekend. I know so much about these engines now its amazing.

winfred
03-08-2004, 12:03 AM
i don't warranty any bmw head i sell unless they change the head bolts, most people don't know about the strech bolts, i think you can reuse m30 bolts but i don't

Unregistered
03-08-2004, 10:29 AM
Win: New head bolts?! what was your first clue?!?!

brian C. Fingernails, hair, back, arms, hands..anywhere else a man can have grease, we have some. I'll post more pics soon and as soon as i find the 'fate' of the head i'll post! All in all this was a GREAT weekend. I know so much about these engines now its amazing.

Yeah we got a little dirty... I drove home in my 5 with a pillowcase under my ass... a cup of motor oil in my hair, and more dirt on my arms than I thought possible. We're having a great time tearing it down though. Pretty soon we'll be removing mine and do it allllllllllllllllllll over again. Excited jason?!

Wyn
03-08-2004, 12:15 PM
Sorry I couldnt make it back on Sat or Sunday, had to play a gig.

So going to be working on it anytime soon again?

TheGeak
03-08-2004, 12:24 PM
yeah, i know about the 'strech/ bolts. I was just really shocked at how little torque was on them. I have to look it up and see what they're SUPPOSED to have.

donati
03-08-2004, 12:33 PM
... I have to look it up and see what they're SUPPOSED to have.

100nm

TheGeak
03-08-2004, 12:40 PM
yes, but we're in american....Lb/Ft anywhere? ;)

George M
03-08-2004, 12:41 PM
not uncommon for head bolt torque to relax siting an example from M-30's I have worked on. Some even make it a dubious practice of retorquing old bolts if not at least checking them at valve adjustment intervals...without bolt replacement to a nominal torque value...say 80 ft-lbs which defies the spec...as final torque is always to an angle as bolts go into their elastic range and lose linear relationship between torque and gasket loading. Prevailing theory that head gasket failure is a result of relaxed head bolt torque causing loss of compressive loading on the gasket creating a radial stress riser around each combustion chamber causing head gasket blow out in some instances. The most obvious problem with this practice is by retorquing the old bolts, how close do you come to head bolt tensile or ultimate yield strength... as fresh bolts with a new gasket are always torqued within their elastic range.
George

sbcncsu
03-08-2004, 01:28 PM
not uncommon for head bolt torque to relax siting an example from M-30's I have worked on. Some even make it a dubious practice of retorquing old bolts if not at least checking them at valve adjustment intervals...without bolt replacement to a nominal torque value...say 80 ft-lbs which defies the spec...as final torque is always to an angle as bolts go into their elastic range and lose linear relationship between torque and gasket loading. Prevailing theory that head gasket failure is a result of relaxed head bolt torque causing loss of compressive loading on the gasket creating a radial stress riser around each combustion chamber causing head gasket blow out in some instances. The most obvious problem with this practice is by retorquing the old bolts, how close do you come to head bolt tensile or ultimate yield strength... as fresh bolts with a new gasket are always torqued within their elastic range.
George

To avoid the problems with head bolts, I opted for ARP head studs when I replaced the head gasket on my 95 525iA. The high tensile strength studs are reusable and aren't "torque to yield" like the OEM.

BTW, the cause for the head gasket failure was an over torqued head bolt. When I removed the passenger's rear head bolt (location of the coolant leak) the bolt was stretched and actually had cracks in it in two spots. The bolt elongated about 1.5mm longer than the others.

bahnstormer
03-08-2004, 01:57 PM
pics?

billy in slo
03-08-2004, 01:58 PM
:-)

G Feller
03-08-2004, 02:11 PM
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=1576

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=1615


:-)

Anthony (M5 in Calgary)
03-08-2004, 02:12 PM
73.7561 but aren't they torqued using angular increments??

Anthony

Alan_525i
03-08-2004, 05:13 PM
Alright, who wants to see pics of JonK with motoroil-coolant milkshake in his hair??? :p

bahnstormer
03-08-2004, 05:22 PM
i do!