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twogrim
10-20-2005, 09:35 AM
Hi, I just got thru replacing the engine in my 95 540i and am having a problem. I bought a Alusil replacement engine from a shop with a 2yr warranty and it looked like a new motor when I got it. So after many hours of work to install this thing I finally start it and the valve clatter is amazing. I fully expected it to subside as the oil pressure climbed but it does not. Most of the noise if coming from the right head. I have checked everything I can externally and even called the company I bought it from, they have agreed to have it picked up and looked at, but are already hinting that they won't cover the repairs if its an install issue. I have not run the engine more than 5 minutes total yet and am afraid to really let it run because it sounds like its gonna blow. Oil level is fine and engine seems to run smooth except for the racket. All the noise sounds high up like its in the chain or head. Anybody got any suggestions as to what I can check prior to pulling the engine again (not looking forward to that). Thanks in advance. Pat

632 Regal
10-20-2005, 02:49 PM
dude thats screwed... I would start diagnosing it with a compression test, disconnect the FP relay and fuse befor you do that tho, this hopefully will give you a better idea if whats going on?

Keep us posted!

632 Regal
10-20-2005, 02:52 PM
check the oil pump bolts to make sure the pump isnt loose, also if it was ran with no pressure the cam tensioner could have loosened up and can really destroy things...I cant remember the details of how that thing works but it needs oil pressure to tighten the chain.

Kalevera
10-20-2005, 06:07 PM
The clatter is normal, as you probably know, due to the lifters priming themselves. 5 minutes is a short time -- I'd give it 20 or 30 mins if it doesn't seem like its misfiring (sounds like it isn't).

It could be out of time, the oil pressure could actually be down (have you got a gauge on it?) -- as Jeff mentioned, these pumps have a way of falling apart....The two halves split. My thinking is that someone just didn't install the oil pump correctly.

Sure it's got oil in it?! :)

By the way, why should a shop be responsible for covering repairs if the motor -- not installed by them -- is improperly installed? Their logic makes sense to me; they sold you an engine and guarantee it, not labor that they didn't provide (or get paid for).

best, whit

twogrim
10-20-2005, 08:49 PM
I am not going to argue if it indeed turns out to be something that I did (or did not do). However it is really nerve racking to have them insinuate the engine was installed improperly without seeing the engine. I have checked and I have 12lbs oil pressure at idle. I have now let the engine run for a total of about 8 minutes and it is getting louder. I have done a leakdown and it tests great. I suspect that the oil pump or the timing driveline is not setup right. I guess I am gonna start the removal process this weekend (not what I had planned on doing). I don't know what else to check with it in the car and am out of ideas. I thought about changing the heads from my old motor with this one, however if I do I suspect I will void my warranty (if they honor it at all). I will keep you posted as to what I find.

632 Regal
10-20-2005, 09:16 PM
take a peek under the valve cover...

this is only on the right side right?

What weight oil are you using?

Pull the oil filter cover and check if its all draining back into the pan...

12 psi at idle with cold oil seems real low to me but I dont know the norm for it.

Derek A.
10-20-2005, 09:53 PM
The light turns on at 7 psi . Sounds like you are awfully close to that mark - especially with cold oil. I would guess you should be 60 psi cold.

rnrn
10-24-2005, 12:16 AM
it took a little more than 10 mins to calm the lifters down. We all thought it was going to explode but it just took a long time to lube up. Maybe this might help.

GS535i
10-24-2005, 04:35 AM
Not knowing the 540 engine specifically, in general, cold oil pressure should be ~5 bar/60psi at idle: This equals the running pressure at operating temp at >2K rpm, when the idle pressure may drop to ~2 bar. <1 bar is too low in any engine.
The problem sounds like either the oil pump as others have noted or the check valve/spring assemblies that regulate pressure and bypass flow ( one may be stuck on its seat, broken spring, .... There are several other possibilities, like a damaged pump pick up ( was the pan off?), blocked filter, etc.
If the low pressure issue can be sorted out, the engine may be OK: hopefully nothing else has been damaged. If only idled, the lifter noise will wake the dead - but not kill the engine.

twogrim
10-24-2005, 06:25 PM
Well I have had it too three shops since I first started it and all tell me the same thing. I am going to have to pull the head or send the engine back! I guess I will start the pull process tomorrow and then try to decide if I should send it back or not. All I can do at this point is hope that the place I bought it form is standup! Wish me luck!

Kalevera
10-24-2005, 08:29 PM
Out of curiosity, who did you buy the engine from? Where are you located?

best, whit

632 Regal
10-25-2005, 10:21 AM
why are you going to pull the head when you clearly have an oil pressure issue?

thats like changing your socks to cure a headache.

twogrim
10-25-2005, 05:44 PM
I don't want to say who I bought the motor from as of yet (I don't want to run them down if they stand behind what they sell). I don't think at this point it is just an oil pressure issue. The engine has run long enough to gaul any the cam journals in the head or possibly the lifter sockets. I have spoken with the shop I bought it from and they will only honor the warranty if the engine is sent back to them for repairs (If I fix it I pay for the repairs and probably void my warranty). They even advised me not to pull the valve covers. So needless to say I am pulling the motor for return.

632 Regal
10-25-2005, 10:42 PM
wouldnt it be simpler to drop the lower pan and see if the oil pump is loose or seperated? it is a common issue if you used the search function here. I just hate to see you bust your balls for something easier. The chance of tha cam galling is low, the chance of the cam bearing surfaces getting fukt is low since you do have minimal pressure...its a oil pump pressure issue where all you may have to do is put the bolts back in with loctite.

just trying to help dude.

Good luck with whatever game you choose to play.

sdwhitney
10-27-2005, 02:17 PM
I don't want to say who I bought the motor from as of yet (I don't want to run them down if they stand behind what they sell). I don't think at this point it is just an oil pressure issue. The engine has run long enough to gaul any the cam journals in the head or possibly the lifter sockets. I have spoken with the shop I bought it from and they will only honor the warranty if the engine is sent back to them for repairs (If I fix it I pay for the repairs and probably void my warranty). They even advised me not to pull the valve covers. So needless to say I am pulling the motor for return.

I am going to take a guess.

Bavarian Engine Exchange

http://www.bavengine.com/other.html
Used BMW Engines -- Dyno Tested With 2 Year Unlimited Mileage Warranty

I got my replacement from them, but with a lifetime warranty. They had some issues with the engine in the first place, but Bavarian Engine Exchange worked it out, and everything went fine.

I hope it works out for you.