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shogun
10-13-2005, 10:21 PM
I collected from various board representative data for battery drain.
I hope this might help you for checking:

Since practically every hollow space within an 8/7/5 is host to a control unit, many with memory and sensors, it is no wonder the E31/32/34 has such a high resting current drain. About 1 amp/hour drain about every 20 hours. Here's the figures:
With the trunk/luggage compartment lights off:
1.) Driver's door open: 4.8 - 5.0 Amps
2.) Driver's door closed: 4.1 Amps for 20 seconds then reduced to approx. 450-470mA for next 16 mins. then reduced to approx. 50mA
With the trunk/luggage compartment lights on:
1.) Driver's door open approx. 6.1-6.4 Amps
2.) Driver's door closed--approx. 5.9-6.1 Amps for 20 seconds, then reduced to approx. 2.5 Amps for the next 16 mins, then reduced to approx. 50mA

And here I copied once good one from Javier

Finding a short? - for beginners

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/91536/

uscharalph
10-13-2005, 11:56 PM
Good info! Thanks Shogun (& Javier).

Claude
10-14-2005, 02:55 PM
I collected from various board representative data for battery drain.
I hope this might help you for checking:

Since practically every hollow space within an 8/7/5 is host to a control unit, many with memory and sensors, it is no wonder the E31/32/34 has such a high resting current drain. About 1 amp/hour drain about every 20 hours. Here's the figures:
With the trunk/luggage compartment lights off:
1.) Driver's door open: 4.8 - 5.0 Amps
2.) Driver's door closed: 4.1 Amps for 20 seconds then reduced to approx. 450-470mA for next 16 mins. then reduced to approx. 50mA
With the trunk/luggage compartment lights on:
1.) Driver's door open approx. 6.1-6.4 Amps
2.) Driver's door closed--approx. 5.9-6.1 Amps for 20 seconds, then reduced to approx. 2.5 Amps for the next 16 mins, then reduced to approx. 50mA

And here I copied once good one from Javier

Finding a short? - for beginners

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/91536/

NICE INFO, could you give us the normal current drain (how many amp. / hr) when the car stand still (doors locked, no alarm system, everything off), it is certainly a bit different from car to car but on average the E34 should have similar figures. My car is a E34-89.

I suspect that this drain is relatively high because last winter (very cold weather here in eastern Canada) i found out a dead battery after the car being at rest for 2 weeks.

Claude

Bill R.
10-14-2005, 03:23 PM
http://www.bimmer.info/%7Ebill/parasitic%20loss.jpg
NICE INFO, could you give us the normal current drain (how many amp. / hr) when the car stand still (doors locked, no alarm system, everything off), it is certainly a bit different from car to car but on average the E34 should have similar figures. My car is a E34-89.

I suspect that this drain is relatively high because last winter (very cold weather here in eastern Canada) i found out a dead battery after the car being at rest for 2 weeks.

Claude

winfred
10-14-2005, 06:32 PM
my e30 reads so low i can see the power spike that the led on the radio makes when it flashes, 30-40 ma is a good general number for most cars

patznu
01-07-2007, 02:51 AM
Like myself, Thank you Javier and SHOGUN !! I have been looking for this basic info for about two or so hours....and you know what I been stumped at the readings, because I have been testing incorrectly... now back to out garage:D


I collected from various board representative data for battery drain.
I hope this might help you for checking:

Since practically every hollow space within an 8/7/5 is host to a control unit, many with memory and sensors, it is no wonder the E31/32/34 has such a high resting current drain. About 1 amp/hour drain about every 20 hours. Here's the figures:
With the trunk/luggage compartment lights off:
1.) Driver's door open: 4.8 - 5.0 Amps
2.) Driver's door closed: 4.1 Amps for 20 seconds then reduced to approx. 450-470mA for next 16 mins. then reduced to approx. 50mA
With the trunk/luggage compartment lights on:
1.) Driver's door open approx. 6.1-6.4 Amps
2.) Driver's door closed--approx. 5.9-6.1 Amps for 20 seconds, then reduced to approx. 2.5 Amps for the next 16 mins, then reduced to approx. 50mA

And here I copied once good one from Javier

Finding a short? - for beginners

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/91536/

BillionPa
01-07-2007, 11:17 PM
.... uuuum

what?

how is it physically possible for opening the door to drain 5 amps if all the lights are off?!??!?!?

winfred
01-08-2007, 12:03 AM
it activates more then just the lights, lotsa weird things going on that most drivers don't notice, like how you can park shut the engine off and remove the key but until you open a door the windows/sunroof remain powered, once you open a door they power down, kinda cool so you can close up if you forget unless you have a women in the car, and then the door is open before the car stops moving regardless if she is going to be several more minutes ****ing around with_______ before departing the car


.... uuuum

what?

how is it physically possible for opening the door to drain 5 amps if all the lights are off?!??!?!?

BillionPa
01-08-2007, 12:17 AM
yeah, but that 5A listing is AFTER the door is opened, so those relays shut off already. and also that would only seem like a feasible current draw if all those motors were operating simultaneously!

winfred
01-08-2007, 12:36 AM
theres no telling what all kinda of **** is supposed to start up when the door is opened, not all of it hits the same on every car either from experience in tracking draws on different cars, if i spent enough time with some wiring diagrams i could figure out what's drawing that but it's not worth it, the newer the car the bigger pain in the ass to track with all of the weird body modules they are going to, e32/34s are not all that bad

shogun
01-08-2007, 09:05 AM
It takes about 16 minutes till the car goes sleeping after you locked the car.
ZKE/GM is on stand-by, CCM, IHKA , alarm system and other modules are still working/are on stand-by, etc. pp.
That is why one should lock the doors (open a rear window if the battery is in the trunk) to check for voltage drain at the battery with a DMM by pulling one fuse after the other.
For example the door lock heater has been activated when opening the door. And that pulls already a lot of power.