New member needs help on 1998 528i

[prisonepistles]

Let me try to make a long story short. Purchased a 98 528i in Feb of this year and so far, not bad. Two issues need attention right now. The first is that the car will not start, no crank. Ironically, the day I recieved my Peake to reset the inspection lights, the car would not start. After an hour, the car did start. After three days of starting flawlessly, it now seems as though there is no way it is going to start. The engine will not turn over, just absolute silence. The car is on the second battery. My feeling is that it is the ignition switch or the starter. How do I diagnose the problem? If it is one of these problems, it is a plausible fix for an amateur like myself. I once switched out a starter in a 1993 Mazda MPV van and installed shocks on a MB 300SD. I don't mind grease and although I am old, I am fairly flexible.

Now for problem/issue number 2. I had a brain storm! Since I have this little gizmo that can detect faults, why not try it out again. I just hooked it up and came up with an "E9". I know this as an error by the right fielder, or is it left fielder? Nevertheless, the chart reads "Catyalyst efficiency below threshold Cyl # 1 - 3". Somebody please tell me what this means? Sounds bad!
I assume that this is not related to problem number 1. Any insight on these two issues would be greatly appreciated. I have tried another forum that shall remain anonymous and I even privately emailed a key player on this board. I just need to get the car going and I hope you can put up with my many questions.

many blessings,

John

[Kalevera]

John, I don't quite understand what is implied by, "after an hour, the car did start." Does this mean that a battery charger was placed on the thing and it started, or the car was left to sit or ?

best, whit

[prisonepistles]

John, I don't quite understand what is implied by, "after an hour, the car did start." Does this mean that a battery charger was placed on the thing and it started, or the car was left to sit or ?

best, whit

Lowell:

What is implied by "after an hour, the car did start" refers to the first time the car would not crank. I was fueling up and when I went to start the car, nothing happened. I pushed the car out of the way and walked home. I got a ride back out to the gas station (about and hour elapsed) and then the car did start. Hope this helps,

John

[Kalevera]

Sounds like an EWS issue to me. In the key itself is a transponder. Any time it comes within about two feet of the ignition cylinder, an antenna/transducer ring that surrounds the cylinder charges and activates an internal microchip. Information is wirelessly passed between the key and the car. After a few years of use, the keys tend to die (it's a compound key -- with lock/unlock/trunk functions built into the head, yes?) and can only be replaced with a new one. It's about $100 at a dealer; bring registration and your driver's license to the service desk and they'll order you a new key.

best, whit

[GaryE]

I've recently experienced similar symptoms as you John, turned out to be the starter motor. You can test the starter motor solenoid - connect a lead between the battery positive and ignition switch wire (small terminal on starter motor). Make sure ignition is turned to 'on' position.

My mechanic and I used a wire with a switch to test it, car started 5 out of 10 attempts. Which meant the solenoid was a bit nackered. The solenoid on the starter motor is replaceable seperately if you can find a replacement. I couldn't find one, so had to get a whole new starter motor with solenoid. £90.

The above was done on a 1991 though, not sure about your newer 98 model, might differ.

Good luck.
Gary

[prisonepistles]

Sounds like an EWS issue to me. In the key itself is a transponder. Any time it comes within about two feet of the ignition cylinder, an antenna/transducer ring that surrounds the cylinder charges and activates an internal microchip. Information is wirelessly passed between the key and the car. After a few years of use, the keys tend to die (it's a compound key -- with lock/unlock/trunk functions built into the head, yes?) and can only be replaced with a new one. It's about $100 at a dealer; bring registration and your driver's license to the service desk and they'll order you a new key.

best, whit

If it is the transponder in the key, why doesn't the car start with the plastic convenience key?

thanks,

John

[Kalevera]

Hi John.

ALL ignition keys on a '98 528i will have chips in them. If none of the keys work (and they haven't recently been changed), or the keys work sporadically: 1) take it to a dealer or good indy with a decent diagnostic computer (Modic III/GT1, Autologic) and have them check the EWS module to assure that it's always getting power and giving a signal, have them also check the ignition switch (antitheft detent can break off and cause problems) and starter, 2) replace the rubber ring around the ring antenna (part number 32 32 1 094 182), and potentially the antenna/antenna module, 3) check the range selector switch, antitheft module, general module, and potentially the OBC for faults that could prevent starting.

E39 is a COMPLEX car compared to most E34s. OBD II, more advanced antitheft when compared to even the late E34s, and tons of computer modules that have their "hands" in things. That rubber isolator ring should be installed on your car but could be deteriorated to the point of shorting out the conductive antenna. Late E34s and anything produced before 1996 didn't have them and can end up with the sporadic starting problems without the part installed.

best, whit

[Hal]

Sounds like the same thing that is currently happening with my 99 528i. Mine starts sometimes just fine, other times no crank, no click, no nothing. I'm working on replacing the starter relay. My car is doing the same thing with multiple keys. I supose that the car EWS system may be flaking out.

If the relay doesn't do the trick then it goes to the shop.

Hal

[prisonepistles]

Sounds like the same thing that is currently happening with my 99 528i. Mine starts sometimes just fine, other times no crank, no click, no nothing. I'm working on replacing the starter relay. My car is doing the same thing with multiple keys. I supose that the car EWS system may be flaking out.

If the relay doesn't do the trick then it goes to the shop.

Hal


Hal:

Where is the starter located? I would like to give mine a love tap to see if it starts.

thanks,

John

[Hal]

My E39 is currently dead about 15 miles from here, so I can't check, but the starter always engages teeth on the flywheel, so it is generally just above the oil pan near the back of the engine on one side or the other. You pretty much have to get to it from below the car. The starter relay that I am replacing is behind the glove box (of all places), although I am not sure that that is the source of my problem. It just seemed like the easiest and cheapest place to start.

Hal

[prisonepistles]

My E39 is currently dead about 15 miles from here, so I can't check, but the starter always engages teeth on the flywheel, so it is generally just above the oil pan near the back of the engine on one side or the other. You pretty much have to get to it from below the car. The starter relay that I am replacing is behind the glove box (of all places), although I am not sure that that is the source of my problem. It just seemed like the easiest and cheapest place to start.

Hal


It was the starter and it is now replaced and starting like a champ.