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View Full Version : sealing the cam chain tensioner plug on a M30



Jeff N.
08-14-2005, 10:34 AM
I don't seem to have the trick to get this plug to seal. New washer ring in place, have it cranked down firmly but don't want to reef on it (aluminum to aluminum). Silly thing still weaps oil.

Am I doing something wrong or should I just cave in and use some sealer on this thing?

Had this problem on the last couple go-rounds with my various M30's. Maybe I should go read the FSM and see what they suggest...

Jeff

Jeff N.
08-15-2005, 10:21 AM
bump

howardc64
12-31-2005, 08:25 PM
I've got a leak here as well. Haven't put a new washer on it. Sounds like Jeff wasn't having much success either with a new washer. Anyone knows a solution?

Bill R.
01-01-2006, 06:08 AM
seal right up, still use the seal to though... unfortunately the genuis marketing guys at the local autozone have decide to no longer carry hylomar so i had to buy up all they had at this one... all their sealant products that were permatex are now loctite products instead.



I don't seem to have the trick to get this plug to seal. New washer ring in place, have it cranked down firmly but don't want to reef on it (aluminum to aluminum). Silly thing still weaps oil.

Am I doing something wrong or should I just cave in and use some sealer on this thing?

Had this problem on the last couple go-rounds with my various M30's. Maybe I should go read the FSM and see what they suggest...

Jeff

Scott H
01-01-2006, 06:15 AM
the seals during the engine build and only found one tube at a premium auto parts store. That tube didn't last long during my project! While I was there I stocked up on one of almost every permatex product they carried that Autozone does not.


seal right up, still use the seal to though... unfortunately the genuis marketing guys at the local autozone have decide to no longer carry hylomar so i had to buy up all they had at this one... all their sealant products that were permatex are now loctite products instead.

John B.
01-01-2006, 07:06 AM
Hylomar is a Permatex product & I find it at all the Napas around here although I don't use it too often anymore. It use to be very popular with the BMW motorcycle guys & was recommended by the factory but that was many years ago.

Jeff N.
01-01-2006, 07:42 AM
Thanks for the tip on Hylomar...have to keep my eye's open. Our local chain is Kragen (dba Shucks in our area). Have to see what they do. Napa always seems to be a better option.




seal right up, still use the seal to though... unfortunately the genuis marketing guys at the local autozone have decide to no longer carry hylomar so i had to buy up all they had at this one... all their sealant products that were permatex are now loctite products instead.

howardc64
01-02-2006, 12:44 PM
Thanks for the tip on Hylomar...have to keep my eye's open. Our local chain is Kragen (dba Shucks in our area). Have to see what they do. Napa always seems to be a better option.

Thanks for the note on Hylomar. Will run out and get some of this.

While searching for timing chain tensioner info. Found this link which indicates the tensioner must be re-primed when the plug is removed/reassembled.

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=17187&highlight=timing+chain+tensioner

Bentley says to pour oil down the side of the timing chain cover so the the tensioner assembly is primed. I don't have the covers apart, do I just lube the whole assembly really well before installation?

*** Update: Found the relavent info. Looks like I'll be adjusting my valves too :-)

http://www.koalamotorsport.com/article-m30timingchaintensioner.asp

grave77
01-02-2006, 02:07 PM
I think you should sand surface it then replace it back .. seems that the surface is realy rough

Edit: Fiber washers work fine on metal sufaces.

Scott H
01-02-2006, 02:20 PM
I'm not so sure many people are going to heed your words of wisdom! I'm just sayin what most people are thinking....that's all. Isn't that how Seinfeld made it big?

I should just go back to work on my project. It keeps me out of trouble here...



I think you should sand surface it then replace it back .. seems that the surface is realy rough

Edit: Fiber washers work fine on metal sufaces.

grave77
01-03-2006, 07:39 AM
ur opinion, I'm satisfied with what I've done. many others wont dare doing it at all ........

howardc64
01-17-2006, 11:12 PM
Hylomar is a Permatex product & I find it at all the Napas around here although I don't use it too often anymore. It use to be very popular with the BMW motorcycle guys & was recommended by the factory but that was many years ago.

Tried Hylomar, tried Hylomar with thread lock, tried 30+nm of torque, nothing is sealing this thing.

On close inspection, the mating face on the housing is angled/tapered and smooth, the washer is very thin and flat. The surface on the nut is also flat. Seems like the seal can only be created using a thin edge of the washer.

So I'm thinking either a angled/tapered washer is necessary (if there is such a thing) or I would need to sand/file down the housing surface to make it flat. Not sure how to keep some metal dust from entering the engine.

If there is some trick to this, love to know. Thanks.

632 Regal
01-18-2006, 12:11 AM
replace the washer with new?
how much is 30+nm in foot pounds?
Tried Hylomar, tried Hylomar with thread lock, tried 30+nm of torque, nothing is sealing this thing.

On close inspection, the mating face on the housing is angled/tapered and smooth, the washer is very thin and flat. The surface on the nut is also flat. Seems like the seal can only be created using a thin edge of the washer.

So I'm thinking either a angled/tapered washer is necessary (if there is such a thing) or I would need to sand/file down the housing surface to make it flat. Not sure how to keep some metal dust from entering the engine.

If there is some trick to this, love to know. Thanks.

howardc64
01-18-2006, 01:04 AM
replace the washer with new?
how much is 30+nm in foot pounds?

New washer every attempt. My mistake on the torque info. I started with Bentley's 40nm/30ft-lb, when that leaked, I did more but no real beef.

It seems a flat screw surface which mates to the washer + flat washer into an angled/tapered surface is probably not going to seal very well. Are m30s all angled/tapered like this or just mine car? The surface seems to be manufactured that way, it is smooth and not scared (like if someone put too much torque on it)