Radiator done, A/T is the next item - right?

[aaron]

I've had oil changes give me more trouble than this radiator. I didn't even break the plastic clips on top. But the sensor (probably temp & fluid level gauge?) disintegrated in my hands. Oh well - it still works. I drained the block as best I could too. After filling it all back up with the True Blue BMW fluid and bleeding only once, everything seems fine. The heater works great - and it idled for about an hour maintaining correct temperature. I can't hear or see any bubbles, etc. So I think I'm good to go.

Anyway, about the A/T . . . I've tried to check the level when cold, but it appears that the fluid level is either really difficult to measure, or really is an inch above the full mark (the upper bulb on the stick). This is even after I just lost a radiator full of trans fluid! I didn't add any back in. The warm measurement looks about the same. The fluid smells fine, but appears red-brown. It may be the original fluid with 129 K miles on it.

Should I just replace it slowly, like a quart at a time at every oil change? Or should I just flush it at a jiffy-lube type place with their positive pressure pump thinger and be done with it?

Thanks for suggestions. So far my fear of working on a german car is dissipating. Will everything be this easy?! (knock on wood!)

Aaron

[Kalevera]

I've had oil changes give me more trouble than this radiator. I didn't even break the plastic clips on top. But the sensor (probably temp & fluid level gauge?) disintegrated in my hands. Oh well - it still works. I drained the block as best I could too. After filling it all back up with the True Blue BMW fluid and bleeding only once, everything seems fine. The heater works great - and it idled for about an hour maintaining correct temperature. I can't hear or see any bubbles, etc. So I think I'm good to go.

Anyway, about the A/T . . . I've tried to check the level when cold, but it appears that the fluid level is either really difficult to measure, or really is an inch above the full mark (the upper bulb on the stick). This is even after I just lost a radiator full of trans fluid! I didn't add any back in. The warm measurement looks about the same. The fluid smells fine, but appears red-brown. It may be the original fluid with 129 K miles on it.

Should I just replace it slowly, like a quart at a time at every oil change? Or should I just flush it at a jiffy-lube type place with their positive pressure pump thinger and be done with it?

Thanks for suggestions. So far my fear of working on a german car is dissipating. Will everything be this easy?! (knock on wood!)

Aaron
The temperature switch on the top left hand side (when facing the car) is actually for the auxiliary fan; the idea is that when the coolant temp in the cooler side of the radiator reaches a certain point, the switch will be able to power on the aux fan. They're inexpensive (the switch, that is), so replace it if the plastic is damaged. Be sure to use a new crush washer on the switch; not having one will mitigate leaks, which will probably lead to overtightening of it and perhaps the destruction of your new radiator.

The integrated trans cooler found in automatic 535 cars is actually quite small. It acts as more of a heat exchanger than a fluid displacer: engine and trans fluid temps should be about the same, in theory. The amount of fluid lost in a radiator change is negligable. Less than half a quart, if that, and IF the car was warm at the time of replacement.

The fluid in your trans should be checked when the car is warm. Drive it around, then pull the dipstick and read it. A cold trans will have more fluid in the pan as it drains from the valve body and TC...obviously while the car has been sitting.

Brown is bad; red is good. Before I knew what I was looking at, I thought burnt and brown fluid was good to go. Take a picture of the stuff on a white piece of paper and post the picture on the board.


best, whit

[uscharalph]

I think I need to do that testing of the color of my ATF also.