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View Full Version : 4hp22, i give up...........



crunchy
03-26-2005, 03:24 AM
im at my wits end with this thing,i brought 520 with the trans plug missing so ii replaced it.it thru up a code 09 which is reverse lock. i checked the soleniods and they are all working fine. checked the wiring from the new plug which has a grey wire which is for the reverse soleniod but the loom from the car doesnt. what happens is when you first turn the key on the light comes on then of then stays on and you can hear a relay tripping in the trans computor. now i tried it again but unplugging the trans plug and it still does it.ive tried to clear the code but it still does it.i checked the ohms as per the book and it seems to be ok, i checked the pinout again and the colours match as per the book the only wire that seems to be different is pin d which is for reverse lock out. the trans ecu number is 0 260 002 044. the car is a sinapore import and is a m20 single cam. am i missing something here? i would like to get it going with the auto and not change just yet to a manuel, any help would be great, cheers steve

crunchy
03-26-2005, 08:46 AM
any ideas, anyone?

Javier
03-26-2005, 09:06 AM
when you bought the car, nor what the relay clicking is, but I know that later models of 4hp22 do not have a reverse locking solenoid.

May you have a mismatch between the trany and the control unit?

Javier

winfred
03-26-2005, 08:06 PM
our m20 cars are not computer controled, they are all hydraulic

632 Regal
03-27-2005, 09:53 PM
maybe a mismatch with the wiring and trans, was this trans replaced just prior to your purchase? If so maybe that was why they chose to off it.

crunchy
03-28-2005, 01:54 AM
i got aother trans computor and it does the same thing, i dont have a wire pinout for the ecu so im flying blind. i did come up with one thing annd thats when yourr in park and you first turn the key on you can here a solinoed switching. from what ive read all are mean to be open circut until you select a gear. i also tried powering it up with it unplugged from the trans and it still throws up a check light. my next thought is to rrun a separte cable from the trans ecu to the trans just in case theres a short in a cable some where, hard to figure without a pinout

crunchy
04-02-2005, 09:14 AM
we ive tryed everything so what i did have sucess with was selecting drive then activate the solinods as per the manuel to get 1-4 which it did, does anyone see a problem with doing this with some relays and select switches on the steering wheel for up and down

Javier
04-02-2005, 08:48 PM
drive the solenoids from switches in the steering wheel? Shi... you better look for the proper computer for your trany.

Javier

Javier
04-02-2005, 09:19 PM
Do harness to your transmission have 7 or 8 wires (7 wires are Red, white, brown, orange, green, blue, and Violet, pins 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 on transmission connector, see picture of the plug, not the transmission socket).

You reported an 8th gray wire and a Reverse solenoid issue, so think you have an old 4hp22 control. Do your transmission have a Reverse solenoid? Check continuity from pin 2 to pin 8 on the transmission socket, if about 35 ohms there, yes there is a reverse solenoid, if open circuit, you have none and your control will miss one, so you will need a younger control.

Javier

Javier
04-02-2005, 09:50 PM
harness, as the old one would also be different to the one required for newer trany's and controls.

A wild guess, may be you can fool the control wiring a resistor (resistance should equals the ohm reading for solenoids) from the extra gray wire to the violet wire. This way the control may believe the solenoid is there and will not report an issue. Of course, no idea how will behave the control attempting to energize a non existent solenoid, but guess the new trany will not require a reverse lock.

Javier

crunchy
04-04-2005, 03:23 AM
well do i feel stupid, it had a broken wire inside the trans. still be cool to turn it into a tiptronic of sorts and yes it had the correct trans ecu, thanks for the help

Javier
04-04-2005, 07:34 AM
Javier

zygoteer
04-04-2005, 12:25 PM
If your do put a resistor in there (and I don't see the point really though, someone explain the reason ?) as a 'psuedo solenoid', remember that a solenoid is an actuator and normally DRIVEN by a voltage/current.

So, if 12volts were nominally applied (by the TCU) to 35 ohms then the resistor will need to dissipate just over 4 watts of energy ... better use a 5W or more rated resistor if you don't want it to fry (maybe set fire to the ATF ? - anyone know the flash-point of ATF by the way ?) and then go short-circuit and risking blowing up the output driver in the expensive TCU !

This energy is that which drives the solenoid normally !

jplacson
04-04-2005, 12:35 PM
You have a 520i M20 AUTO? Dude... I've got a 520i M20 M/T... and I seriously think she's a little slow... it can cruise fine at 160kph... and can hit 200kph with a little effort... that's all good. But simple 0-50kph sprints are slow. You might be better off switching it to an M/T.

I'm trying to strip the over-all weight of the car down. I might even get Goodyear F1 EMTs just to ditch the spare... without the spare, I can ditch the jack as well. That's a pretty big chunk of dead weight gone.

crunchy
04-04-2005, 11:23 PM
its all good and ive havent removed the solinoed as it was a broken wire, ill see how it performs as im about to do the turbo setup which that should help some what, thanks guys