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InfernoM3
03-04-2005, 08:41 PM
My car is driving like crap lately and I took it into the service shop and they said I need a new 02 sensor $165+65 labor=230. Man thas a lot of money to fork over plus I need to replace my front brakes which is a nother 300. Anyway I think I can get the 02 sensor from BMA for $120 or so. How difficult is it to install on a 535i. I know the 535i 02 sensor is way more expensive than the other e34's. Also where can I get the best price on this part. I've been reading the archive that there is a NTK substitute? for like half the price? Any info would be great.

adamsbomb
03-04-2005, 09:29 PM
On my 525, they quoted me 37$ for labor to swap it. The whole job was like 140.00

shogun
03-04-2005, 10:20 PM
http://www.oxygensensorwholesale.com/bmw_1992_535i.html

Take the more expensive one, not the universal one. The original has a plug. Usually they fail when the wire connections corrode.
You might need the special tool which they also offer. For the exchange, see e34.net Bruno's page.
In the worst case the old oxy sensor sticks so hard, that you might damage the thread when taking it out. Use your time and WD 40 or other rust solvers. If it is damaged, there are small pieces with inner threads available at any muffler shop and they can weld it in.

InfernoM3
03-05-2005, 01:58 AM
Anyone with a 535i have some advice. I heard it was harder than it seemed with this car and might need to drop the exhaust? Also I've heard I may need special joint tools? Wht are they and where can I get them. if its gonna be a big fuss I may just let me mechanic do it. Would like to save the money though.

GS535i
03-05-2005, 06:47 AM
Search ebay for Bosch sensors - you can get a 4-wire as low as $25, but here's a BIN @ $45 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46097&item=7957708597&rd=1.
Remove the current sensor, cut and solder the wires to length reusing the connector and following the colour code (2 white, a grey & a black -use heat shrink over each joint) - and install. The screw apart connector is just above the oil sump on the drivers (left) side.
Sensors arrive with anti-seize lube , so do not add more. If the threads are in question, a $5 tap called a spark plug 'thread chaser' can be threaded in to clean them up.
If you trace the wire and can get a wrench in there ...

Mobius
03-05-2005, 05:04 PM
I just replaced mine on my 535 a couple days ago. Despite the special O2 sensor socket, and a bevy of socket u-joints and extensions, I couldn't get it to break free.

I ended up dropping the exhaust so I could get a wrench on it. It was far more work than I wanted it to be - but, I had the time.

InfernoM3
03-09-2005, 02:10 AM
Ok i bought the O2 sensor from BMA. they hooked it up $99 versus stealer price of $175. I installed it just now and when I removed the old one I forgot how this one hanger piece was connected. So my question is does anyone have a diagram or can explain to me how it connects I couldnt' find a nut to connect the hanger to? The hanger I am talking about is a clip on hanger that attaches near the electrical connecter cord on the other side of the 02 sensor.

sensor looks like this

>-------------------===02

The hanger i'm referring too is toward the front of my little stick diagram near this > symbol. . Thanks

shogun
03-09-2005, 02:55 AM
Have you looked into the online spare parts catalog ETK?
Oxygensensors.com send it usually out with plastic clips like this
https://www.automedicsupply.com/pictures/13231_.jpg

InfernoM3
03-09-2005, 02:22 PM
Have you looked into the online spare parts catalog ETK?
Oxygensensors.com send it usually out with plastic clips like this


Those look like zip ties. The clip I was talking about looks different. I'll try and get a pic later. But I have another issue now. Well I test drove the car this morning and it drove better. acceleration was better and it seemed to not lag as much. however the exhaust smelled a little more. is this normal. Also the check engine light flashed a few times when I would try to accerelate to around 3-4K RPM??? The car doesn't seem to want to rev past this area. Did I do something wrong or is the 02 sensor defective. All i did was remove old 02 sensor and replace with new 02 sensor?

InfernoM3
03-10-2005, 01:10 PM
Those look like zip ties. The clip I was talking about looks different. I'll try and get a pic later. But I have another issue now. Well I test drove the car this morning and it drove better. acceleration was better and it seemed to not lag as much. however the exhaust smelled a little more. is this normal. Also the check engine light flashed a few times when I would try to accerelate to around 3-4K RPM??? The car doesn't seem to want to rev past this area. Did I do something wrong or is the 02 sensor defective. All i did was remove old 02 sensor and replace with new 02 sensor?
Any one have any ideas. Should i call BMA and say that the part might be defective? Or did i install incorrectly? This stuff always happen to me when you try to save money and DIY.

InfernoM3
03-12-2005, 06:28 PM
OK. Well I did a stomp test and the code was 1221. Someone suggested I look for vacuum leaks. I don't know where to begin to look or how to tell but I did check out the plastic elbow hose connecting after the air filter. It has 2 small cracks. Could this be what is causing the check engine light to still flash and the low power above 3K RPM in 3/4/5 gear???

Mobius
03-12-2005, 06:34 PM
OK. Well I did a stomp test and the code was 1221. Someone suggested I look for vacuum leaks. I don't know where to begin to look or how to tell but I did check out the plastic elbow hose connecting after the air filter. It has 2 small cracks. Could this be what is causing the check engine light to still flash and the low power above 3K RPM in 3/4/5 gear???In short, no.
The issue with vacuum leaks is that they allow in unmetered air - that is, after the MAF sensor and after the throttle plate. You can completely remove the intake tubing before the MAF and there wouldn't be any problem (except the lack of filtration, of course).

I'm a bit curious to your problem myself. Typically vacuum-related problems only occur at idle, not at higher RPM. If you're throwing a O2 sensor code while running at that speed, you'd have to have a HUGE leak.

Normally I'd say the O2 sensor is bad, but it's new.. I'm out of suggestions. You've reached the limit of my knowledge. Sorry man.