Help needed - I broke the subframe bolt

[BigKriss]

Trying to remove the 22mm bolt that goes through subframe bushing to add Bruno's rear subframe plates.

Curbed Bolt - 51718181460
Collar Nut (22mm) - 33331126136

Part numbers 6 and 8 on etk. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=33&fg=30

I contanted the dealer and it will take 3 to 4 weeks to come from Germany and will take cost aus$60. I'm thinking on contacting bma auto parts instead, or trying to get them locally from a hardware store. Anyone know how long the bolts are?

Do I have to lower the subframe to put the new bolt in from the top? Or is there another way- I haven't done a job like this before.

Regards

Kristian

[632 Regal]

can you remove the other one and use that for a match? or

Put the broken bolt next to the piece with the broken nut and bet a length measurement, measure the diameter.

Look in the top of the broken bolt and it will give you the hardness of the bolt.

You should be able to match it up at a hardware or machine shop tool and supply place.

No biggie at all.

[Tiger]

Any fastener shop listed in your yellow page should have them... the critical point is not only the thread type and length but the strength rating... They can match it for you.

[pundit]

Trying to remove the 22mm bolt that goes through subframe bushing to add Bruno's rear subframe plates.

Bolt - 51718184161
Nut (22mm) - 33331126136

Part numbers 6 and 8 on etk. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=33&fg=30

I contanted the dealer and it will take 3 to 4 weeks to come from Germany and will take cost aus$60. I'm thinking on contacting bma auto parts instead, or trying to get them locally from a hardware store. Anyone know how long the bolts are?

Do I have to lower the subframe to put the new bolt in from the top? Or is there another way- I haven't done a job like this before.

Regards

Kristian

Basically BMW states any self locking fasteners (bolts/nuts) should be discarded and replaced with new ones. After my experience replacing my thrust arm bushes I tend to agree with this. The threads stripped whilst removing them ... F#*%#ing things!! The locknuts used are a cone style locknut which lock very well!!

Kris, I was quoted more than $100.00 for thrust arm bolts and nuts from a fastener supplier (not genuine) the other alternative was having BMW order them from Munich just like your situation. All for a couple of bolts & nuts that are supposed to be replaced once removed. What I want to know is if BMW state their self locking fasteners require replacement once removed then why don't they stock them??

I ended up buying 2 x Hi Tensile Hex bolts and locknuts for $6.20 each. If you have an intact sample take it to your local bolt bar and see whether they can match it.

[winfred]

6 is not a normal bolt it's pressed into it's hole in the body, i've never needed to change one in a e34 but they usually can be hammered out in other bimmers, the trick is doing it without screwing up the new one if you go for a used one

[Mobius]

Holy cow, look how stretched the threads are.. Someone went with an impact wrench on that one.

You can't replace this with a hardware store bolt. The top is knurled to tightly fit through the frame.

All that should be needed is to support the rear subframe, and pound the bolt up from the bottom. The writeup on bmwe34.net under rear subframe bushing replacement will explain it pretty well.

[pundit]

6 is not a normal bolt it's pressed into it's hole in the body, i've never needed to change one in a e34 but they usually can be hammered out in other bimmers, the trick is doing it without screwing up the new one if you go for a used one

Okay!

[BigKriss]

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/mainte...amebushing.htm

This shows how to remove the bolt, but how do I hammer it out, since the bolt it broken. The bolt is stuck inside. Do I have to drill it out or remove it from the top. I'm lost as what to do. I'm getting the parts from BMA autoparts, seems the easiest way to go.

[Paul in NZ]

that procedure seems to suggest that you have to drive the "pin" upwards.If you have broken the "pin" you will need to use another similar sized bolt or a drift to hammer the "pin"out ,like a punch and a nail


6. Underneath again, subframe arm removed, you can see the actual subframe bushing. At this point, the subframe itself is being supported by a 4x4 post on a jack. The bolt in the center is the pin previously mentioned. You need to hammer the pin up and push it out of the bushing. Be ready to hit it hard. Don't mess up the threads! Put the nut on and hammer on a socket! Pin shown removed on the right

[BigKriss]

thanks for your help guys - i'll see what i can do and get back to you