center tie rod

[Hypr5]

Hey guys,

Just wondering - If im trying to get the car to "feel like new" again as far as steering goes, does the center tie rod have a big part in this? If I'm experiencing steering play... excessive... at 130k miles and I am replacing almost everything else, should I replace this too?

Thanks for your advice.

[Kalevera]

If the bushings are shot, it may. See if you can SHAKE the center link. It shouldn't move at all. The other wear part in the vicinity is the idler arm, which has a serviceable bushing, but it's often cheaper and easier to just replace the entire thing. When I bought my car, the bushings were all visibly shot and cracked...so they all got replaced and I had like-new handling for a while. best, whit

[liquidtiger720]

^ i'll let you know when i am done. haha. I am in the process of replacing almost everything and decided why not go for the center link?. its $85 from bma.

[Bill R.]

and they wear just like the tie rod ends, shaking it won't show you the play though, you need to raise the car and have someone grab one of the tires at the sides and push and pull on the tire like your turning the steering wheel and watch the ball joints for play. Most likely if your tie rod ends are worn then you're center link is equally worn and should be replaced as well.

If the bushings are shot (the one to the pitman arm, specifically), it may. See if you can SHAKE the center link. It shouldn't move at all. The other wear part in the vicinity is the idler arm, which has a serviceable bushing, but it's often cheaper and easier to just replace the entire thing. When I bought my car, the bushings were all visibly shot and cracked...so they all got replaced and I had like-new handling for a while. best, whit

[Kalevera]

I'm a dilettante when it comes to this stuff sometimes, so please correct me if I'm wrong...The tie rods have ball joints on each end, and the center link has holes with rubber bushings in them on each end that meets a tie rod and fixed/threaded bolts with bushings where the pitman and idler arms connect.

I'm not sure what I was talking about with the bushing to the pitman arm?!? Late night, I guess... best, whit

[Hypr5]

I'm a dilettante when it comes to this stuff sometimes, so please correct me if I'm wrong...The tie rods have ball joints on each end, and the center link has holes with rubber bushings in them on each end that meets a tie rod and fixed/threaded bolts with bushings where the pitman and idler arms connect.

I'm not sure what I was talking about with the bushing to the pitman arm?!? Late night, I guess... best, whit

I read in another thread that you replaced all of your steering links recently. Did that tighten up the steering a lot for you? Im debating if I should do this or not because I can't imagine how much changing those components could tighten things up, but.... never know. Thanks again.

[Hypr5]

Okay, now im really confused, I followed all of your guy's advice and went out there. I jacked up the car - fiddled with things, moved wheels, pulled at the ball joints, etc etc... EVerything is exceptionally tight and there is no DETECTABLE (by me at least) play in anything that I can see. In fact, when the car is jacked up I have 1/4" of play AT MOST before the wheels start turning. Since this is very minimal play from what I understand, could it still be the links causing the loose FEEL on the highway, etc? The car tracks reasonably straight and doesnt really veer off at all so I'm guessing alignment is ok. After my last alignment, I've never really knocked the car around or anything either. Any ideas? Thanks!

[Hypr5]

Upon further inspection, I'm going to assume that it's either the steering box which I dont think is likely... or the idler arm. (Arm that goes from box to center tie rod.)

There is absolutely no play anywhere at all, EXCEPT if from under the car I grab the steering column and turn that, I can turn it before the wheels start to turn. Not much at all, but it's noticeable and the only place that I see any play whatsoever coming from.

My reasons for thinking its NOT the box is that there is a TON of room left for adjustment, and I can actually adjust that thing TOO tight.. or is this not a good gauge? I read on bmwe34.net that its adjustable until adjustment does nothing?

How do I remove the idler arm to check for it's condition? I'll fiddle with it a bit. Thanks again

[Kalevera]

Well, considering the relative cost of the parts -- ~$100, I think I paid, for all of them -- it was well worth it.

The thing is, I never drove the car with the old components on it. It had been sitting in a field for about two years prior to my purchasing it, so all of the rubber boots, bushings, and bearings were GONE. The two mistakes I made when rebuilding the front end were: 1) not replacing the shock inserts the first time around, and 2) using BavAuto springs. I'm replacing out that combo...hopefully later today...

Also, my steering is pretty loose because I haven't adjusted the steering box or tightened the 32mm nut under the dash. Both of the things are on my list of TO-DOs. However, the new components make the mechanical part of it work correctly and smoothly

Best, whit

[Hypr5]

When I set the car on the ground with the wheel unlocked, I have about 3 - 4" of play in each direction. It's so bad, but NONE when it's off the ground. Also I hear a "clunk" noise when it starts to grab. It's gotta be the box or idler arm, right?