Rear drivers side lock motor v. noisey!

[GaryE]

Hi - Have just noticed on my 1992 520 when I lock the doors the rear drivers side lock motor is making a horrible noise. The lock works perfectly, yet after the pin drops down the lock motor continues to work for about 2 seconds making a rather loud "rrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" noise.

When unlocking the doors, the motor does not do this and works just as normal - anyone experienced this before?

Although not desperate, I feel this needs to be fixed before any damage is done. Don't want to end up with a dead locked door and not being able to open it like some other unlucky people have experienced!

Im planning on taking the panel off and having a proper look at whats going on, and am going to attempt a repair once I can see more ....

I have never taken any door panels off before, and have read somewhere that it is best to follow the Bentleys manual for door panel removal. Can someone help me out here as I don't have this manual. A scan of the necessary pages would be proper bo!

Hope everyone is well, and thanks in advance for your time.

Gary

[Kalevera]

Gary - the lock actuators are hard to service, and you'd probably have better luck just replacing it, assuming that the actuator itself is bad. I use a big ass pair of pliers and a few beers to get them open...works, but it takes a few minutes. I've never tried putting one back together -- on the 5 or so that I've taken apart, I did irrepairable damage to the plastic housing parts.

best, whit

[Javier]

All motors are powered together, guess the gears in this one are not holding the over-time. (Are there realy 2 secs.)

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/mainte...oorRemoval.htm

from Bruno's site, should book mark.

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main.htm

Javier

[GaryE]

Thanks for your info.

Yes it sounds for 1-2 seconds before stopping.
I do have Brunos site bookmarked yet my 520 doesn't seem to look the same as the pictures. I have no speaker above drivers side vent as seen here:


Also I am working on rear panel not front. Gonna try and locate these blasted screws! Wish me luck

Gary

[Kalevera]

Gary - on the rears: pop off the screw cover in the door handle well and remove that screw, remove the window lift switch to disconnect the harness (I usually just leave it connected until I have the panel off..but it can be done both ways), unscrew the plastic lock "button", pull the clips, lift UP and you're home free.

The tricky part (at least for me) is putting it back on...esp in the fronts....those suck.

best, whit

[GaryE]

Cheers lowell - sorted me right out. Got the panel off with a bit of elbow grease. Have managed to find all star style bolts that hold the actuator in place, one was hiding behind some of the rubber weather proof covering. Got it out and it doesn't look like its in such good condition.

Don't see how you even open the actuator, so im going to do a replacement as suggested. Anyone with the eurpopean e34's the part number for this rear door actuator is 67.118 353 011.

Thank you again. Gary

[Javier]

would like to see how does the old one look.

Javier

[Kalevera]

Javier - HTH. Note that the old ones (up until ~94?) look like submarines to me. But these are e32/e34 specific. While the e30/e2somethings may look alike, they've got different connectors.

In terms of opening them...I work along the plastic welded seam at the base of the unit....with pliers and a big screw driver

best, whit

[Kalevera]

BTW, gary - they often don't "look good". That seems to be okay. It's the internals that matter.

I would first check to make sure that the mechanical part of the door lock mechanism is working...the lock actuators seem to last for a long time, unless you've reversed the polarity while jumpstarting (what the idiot PO did on my car).

best, whit

[Javier]

Is this the connector view for this one? Does not look like a trunk, two motors, isn't it?

Javier