Central locking sync issues

[doogie]

I cannot for the life of me to get my locks to sync

OK... the issue I have is that if I lock the doors (either single or double) they spring open immediately, and then stay locked the second time I turn the key.

This appears from what I've read to point to needing to sync the locks, which I've tried a million times in a variety of combinations, including disconnecting the battery etc and still I get the bounce back.

I get a feeling it might be to do with the central locking control functions on my alarm (I started pulling things apart but didn't actually disconnect anything, starting to look at how to get my alarm to double lock the doors) but I've disconnected this and still no joy (although I've yet to completely disconnect the wires from the blue 3m locks that they're joined with)

The main sync procedure I've tried is

unlock car
turn key to double lock position and hold till all actuators clunk
(pins lock and then spring straight open)
unlock

rinse and repeat ad-infinitum.

Even if I sit in the car and press the door pin down, they spring straight back up first time, then stays locked the second time..... it's !

A definitive answer would be much appreciated! :-)

Cheers

Doogie

[shogun]

Probably one of the microswitches in the doors or the trunk does give a signal back to the GM, that one door is not locked. That is why the doors unlock again. Or the microswitches are not fitted exactly or are misoperating.
The later GM's do not have this function anymore. I copied for you something:

You are probably getting a wrong signal from one of the microswitches.

You are looking for the better function of the GM p/n 61 35 8 356 095 and others used from production date 09/91, which has the following features:

-Repeat and time interlock for headwashers, time interlock 3 min.
-headlight washing pump at fifth windshield washing after time interlock
-intensiv washing pump operating at reduced time from 3 to 2 seconds
-minimum interval for wipers reduced to 2 from 3 seconds (programmmable)
-increased wiper contact pressure during windshield washing now also provided


-previously the GM would react opposing signals (e.g. an unlock signal while trying to lock, as with a defective microswitch) by carrying out the first command (e.g. locking, followed immediately by unlocking). Repeating the first command then results in carrying out the command, e.g. try to lock again, and locking is now carried out. This function (Asynchronious Position)is omitted in the NEW GM.
-After unlocking is performed due to crash sensor activiation, the locking command is now reactivated by double-locking with the key from either side (driver or passenger door).
-The "one-touch" operation of windows has been expanded to all 4 windows in OPENING direction. Drivers side has one touch in both directions
-Sunroof is not already in the tilt position.
-switch off delay of the interior lights after entering the vehicle and closing the driver's door reduced from 20 to 15 seconds.

[Javier]

Do you have an open door alarm or interior lights issues? Any other issues?

Are all the knobs moving down when you lock the car?

Does this happens when you use the front door knobs, no mater the door you use? Remember that using the driver's door knob requires the door to be closed. Do both knobs open the system when pulled?

What happen when you lock the car trough the trunk cylinder? And when you unlock trunk?

The more info you bring, the better we can help.

Javier

[doogie]

Probably one of the microswitches in the doors or the trunk does give a signal back to the GM, that one door is not locked. That is why the doors unlock again. Or the microswitches are not fitted exactly or are misoperating.
The later GM's do not have this function anymore. I copied for you something:

You are probably getting a wrong signal from one of the microswitches.

OK.... it was working pretty much A-OK till Friday.... I'll possibly investigate the microswitches, and probably keep the replacement GM as a bit of a last resort... hopefully it's just something simple

[doogie]

Do you have an open door alarm or interior lights issues? Any other issues?

Nope

Are all the knobs moving down when you lock the car?

Yep

Does this happens when you use the front door knobs, no mater the door you use? Remember that using the driver's door knob requires the door to be closed. Do both knobs open the system when pulled?

Driver's door (RHD) down all lock (but straight away unlock). Passenger door and any other door down, only that single door locks. Driver's door or passenger door up while locked, all doors unlock.

What happen when you lock the car trough the trunk cylinder? And when you unlock trunk?

I've always had a problem with the trunk since I got it.... it always opens with central locking, but can't be operated with a key.... seems to be a mechanical issue of the key not being able to turn the lock at all, never bothered to look into it.

Thanks

Doogie

[digitaldragon03]

I have a similar problem, except that my passenger side lock doesnt go down. I have to go that door and lock it from there.

[Javier]

the doors knob behavior is correct, motors are OK, and responses to knob push/pull are OK, guess the problem is not on the doors. Front passenger door knob don't lock the car when pushed down until 1992 models. The system is configured to unlock immediately after the lock request, if a monitored device fail to lock, monitored devices (up to 92 at least) are only driver's door and trunk. To test the trunk Micro-switch we need to turn the key left/right and observe system response, attention, the trunk lock does nothing if the system is in central arrest mode (double lock). You cannot do this, I know. I would suggest, under the suspicion that the trunk is not reporting lock state, to ask for lock repeatedly, and have someone at the trunk, listening the lock cylinder. If the system believes the trunk is unlocked, you will hear the motor attempting to lock the trunk, no mater it is already locked. The sound should be different to the one that accomplish the lock position, as the motor will not operate but will try to.

The best diagnose would be to open the trunk, lock the car, unplug the trunk lock actuator, and test for continuity between pins 1 and 3 of the socket were X311 was plugged in, there should be continuity indicating micro switch is closed, thus lock is in locked position. X311 is the connector plug (Black, 6 pins, see picture for pin ID), going into the trunk lock motor actuator, follow the posted link and look for part # 10.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...21&hg=41&fg=60

If you plug back X311, unlock the car, unplug X311, and check continuity between socket pins 1 and 3 again, they should be opened, and if you then test continuity between 2 and 3, they should be closed (they were opened wile locked trunk). Note we are taking readings in the motor actuator, not the harness going to the General Module.

If the switch inside the motor actuator does not behave like I told, then it is wrong; if you feel comfortable with Micro mechanics, just try to fix it.

Note I presume that trunk lock follow the lock unlock request (I mean motor is operating) but feedback micro switch is not working.

Let me know you findings so we can go on with harness test, if not the Lock motor actuator.

Javier

[Paul in NZ]

isnt this also caused by short circuiting in the boot hinge wire loom?????

[Javier]

only possible causes are: a) the actuator itself (inside, there is a tiny motor, with some weak connecting pins, and also a couple micro switches), b) dirty or corroded pins at the connecting plug to the motor actuator, and c) dirty or corroded pins at the connection from the door harness to the car body (at the pillar, see pictures).

c) is the easiest to check but less probable, b) require removing the door trim panel, and a) requires, besides b) requirements, to remove the lock motor actuator and play with it a little, it is my believe that this is the most probable cause.

The Relay module sends power to all the lock motors together, so if just only one is working, the fault has nothing to do with it or the general module.

Javier

Edit: Links to missed pictures

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachm...ntid=829&stc=1
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachm...ntid=830&stc=1

[Javier]

then it is necessary to check the harness to the GM, and boot hinge is the must critical section.

Javier