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Thread: Cylinder head studs tightening torque

  1. #1
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    Default Cylinder head studs tightening torque

    i would appreciate anyone could tell the tightening torque required for the studs on the cylinder head,which hold the valve cover cap nuts.
    M50TU engine
    jj

  2. #2
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    snug?
    95 E34 530I V2.37
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  3. #3
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    for a minute there I though you meant cylinder head bolts...what do I know.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
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  4. #4
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    about as tight as you can get it with just your wrist and a 1/4 drive ratchet, the nuts bottom out on the studs, what really applys pressure to the gasket is the little rubber doughnuts under the washers, i allways replace those when i do a valve cover gasket
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by winfred
    about as tight as you can get it with just your wrist and a 1/4 drive ratchet, the nuts bottom out on the studs, what really applys pressure to the gasket is the little rubber doughnuts under the washers, i allways replace those when i do a valve cover gasket
    the reason i was asking is that on the bentley it mentions 10nm for the nuts, but the stud couldnt find its torque needed at all.last time i changed the valve cover gasket i found at lesat 3 studs gone bad,when i tried to replace the stud i found it really really tight on the cylinder head, i fear applying too much force on them and damage their place on the cylinder head creating worse problem.

  6. #6
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    Default Since the nuts bottom before they hit the valve cover the

    actual torque on the 6mm studs is 10nm and on the 7mm studs 15nm.. The nut torque is the same as the stud torque.. Just out of curiosity , what do you mean 3 studs gone bad?







    Quote Originally Posted by jj7
    the reason i was asking is that on the bentley it mentions 10nm for the nuts, but the stud couldnt find its torque needed at all.last time i changed the valve cover gasket i found at lesat 3 studs gone bad,when i tried to replace the stud i found it really really tight on the cylinder head, i fear applying too much force on them and damage their place on the cylinder head creating worse problem.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    actual torque on the 6mm studs is 10nm and on the 7mm studs 15nm.. The nut torque is the same as the stud torque.. Just out of curiosity , what do you mean 3 studs gone bad?
    Gone bad:last time i took the car to the dealer for valve cover gasket change, just recently i did this job myself,while there i found 3 of the studs, the upper side of them,where the nut caps are tightend to not holding the nut,i think at the dealers they godzillad the nut and the stud thread is not holding it anymore...two of them in the back of the engine, and one of them near ignition coil No.6, what let me mess with the gasket was seeing lots of engine oil around that area.
    but Bill,if the nut is 10nm,in theory the stud should be at higher torque,to avoid them coming out together,when untightening the nut cap?right?

    jj

  8. #8
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    Default no, you typically just use a little loctite when installing the

    stud to keep it from backing out, but you only use the blue loctite so you can remove them if you need to.





    Quote Originally Posted by jj7
    Gone bad:last time i took the car to the dealer for valve cover gasket change, just recently i did this job myself,while there i found 3 of the studs, the upper side of them,where the nut caps are tightend to not holding the nut,i think at the dealers they godzillad the nut and the stud thread is not holding it anymore...two of them in the back of the engine, and one of them near ignition coil No.6, what let me mess with the gasket was seeing lots of engine oil around that area.
    but Bill,if the nut is 10nm,in theory the stud should be at higher torque,to avoid them coming out together,when untightening the nut cap?right?

    jj

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