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Thread: 5HP30 Valve Body/Amsoil ATF

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Tampa Bay, Florida, USA
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    Default 5HP30 Valve Body/Amsoil ATF

    I was going thru my receipts yesterday and dug up one from the stealer where I purchased my 540i.
    It showed a new free ZF valve body around 80K (May 2000). At around 95K, my indy did an Inpection II and added about a quart of Amsoil ATF after the filter change (March 2001). I don't know if they used a FILTRAN or some aftermarket filter.
    I've noticed the shift lever being very hot lately; almost too hot to touch. Yes, it's noisier too... That whining, swishing sound.

    Was there a design change in valve bodies?

    Is my tranny toast, or will a new filter and complete fluid change help?
    I've searched the threads and haven't found any comments on Amsoil ATF in a 5HP30.

    Thanks

    Ramon
    Ramon
    1994 540iA Nikasil EAT Chip
    Tampa Bay, Florida USA

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Albuquerque, NM
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    953

    Default Re: Amsoil in ZF5hp30

    I e-mailed Amsoil's tech department a couple years ago for a customer who wanted to put Amsoil ATF in his 740iL with the same transmission. Without elaborating, they replied that Amsoil is not compatible with the 5hp30.

    You'll need to get the Shell LA 2634 "dealer only" fluid. You can get it from Jaggi:

    http://www.jie.com/oilref.htm

    Redline ATF claims to be compatible with the 5hp30 but the proprietary Shell or Esso fluid is the only fluid that ZF recommends & they say dire consequences will result from using any other spec. I would be reluctant to use anything else.

    There is also a problem with the filter & o-ring on aftermarket filter kits. There was a post couple months ago either here or on the roadfly e32 board elaborating on the difference.

    Can't answer the question about the valve body other than I know there was a retro for one of the check valve balls. Kirt Koeller or perhaps Jaggi could provide more info.
    gale
    92 735i 5-spd, turbo project finally underway!


  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Japan
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    Default valve body rebuilt

    there is a nice write up on my page about that.
    Big problem for that gear type with the valve body.
    But Kirt Koeller can provide a kit and the instruction is now on my page how to DIY.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks!
    Ramon
    1994 540iA Nikasil EAT Chip
    Tampa Bay, Florida USA

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Bay Area, CA
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    Default

    so shell or esso dex 3 is the way to go?

    www.KaRealtySF.com
    Build Date: 05-1995 /Engine: m50tu /Automatic Transmission /ABS /NO ASC /Open Differential /EAT Chip

  6. #6
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    SCHUYLKILL COUNTY, PA.
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    Default i bought a rebuild from kirt koeller..............

    if i remember correctly he suggested not to switch from shell la 2634 to esso unless you rebuild the tranny. he shipped me my 5hp30 with esso.
    it is 1 year & no problems except a tiny leak aroung the shaft connected to the shifter cable.
    i will need to call him about it before my warranty expires.
    tim s.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tim s
    if i remember correctly he suggested not to switch from shell la 2634 to esso unless you rebuild the tranny. he shipped me my 5hp30 with esso.
    it is 1 year & no problems except a tiny leak aroung the shaft connected to the shifter cable.
    i will need to call him about it before my warranty expires.
    tim s.
    Tim,
    The shifter seal is a DIY. Jaggi has the part- it's like $1.50 for 4 of them. It consists of a black rubber washer looking thing, that is pushed in around the shifter pin (remove the shift lever and it reveals itself). There's one on the other side too, as the rod goes all the way through the case.

    Kirt showed me how to do it. Removal consists of using an awl with a curved end to pull that little seal out. Extreme caution must be used not to score the rod, or else it won't seal properly again. You dont have to be a surgeon though- I did it with a curved needle for stiching leather that I got out of my wife's sewing kit. Installation requires a way to push it all the way back past it's flange (it's countersunk about 1cm into the case. I used a piece of tubing that had an interior diameter that allowed it to slip onto the rod, but an exterior diameter narrow enough to get it into the hole. If you use any thing else to poke it back in, be careful.

    Unfortunately the cause of this problem (imho) is Sports mode. At least in my 5hp30, I've done it twice, and both times I noticed the leak after driving the car very hard in 4 for awhile. My case bolts, torque converter, and output were all dry, but I had weeping from the shifter seals. Somehow pressure builds up, and pops the seal out of it's seat. Then you lose fluid very, very slowly until the typical low fluid symptoms manefest.

    Call Kirt anyway just to make sure I'm barking up the right tree.

    Same with you MBXB. Kirt is the source of all knowlege. Jaggi too, but he won't tell you much about doing things diy.
    o/______\o
    (Oo=00=oO)
    []=****=[]

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MBXB
    I've noticed the shift lever being very hot lately; almost too hot to touch. Yes, it's noisier too... That whining, swishing sound.

    Thanks

    Ramon
    Ramon-
    Those are symptoms of low fluid level, which is especially noticeable when the weather is cool, and the fluid itself contracts. See my post to Tim S. If it were me I'd do a service with a Filtran OEM filter, and replace with either Esso or Shell as indicated. I'd do the shifter seals at the same time. I know the fluid is expensive, but after alot of research I have to say that these fluids really are unique, and nothing else can safely be used.
    o/______\o
    (Oo=00=oO)
    []=****=[]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Tampa Bay, Florida, USA
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    Default

    Thanks for the great feedback.
    Ramon
    Ramon
    1994 540iA Nikasil EAT Chip
    Tampa Bay, Florida USA

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