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Thread: Lowered car - height issues

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Wichita KS
    Posts
    180

    Default

    The idea of retorquing the suspension arms is that the bushings take a set to their installed position. Lowering the car will then preload the bushings, and since they've aged--certainly worn differently--they'll preload differently, so one side will hold the car up more than the other. Loosening the bolts and retorquing will let the bushings settle to the new ride height and remove differences in preload.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    130

    Default I'm Rebuilding My Front End

    actually, the whole suspension....Sach's kit, new center link, idler arm, tie rods, lower control arms, already replaced the uppers about 15k miles back. Should I loosen and retorque them when I'm done as well?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    261

    Default

    What is the best way to break the bolt free? This thing isn't coming off with PB and a torque wrench. Any ideas on how to make this a little easier?

    edit:
    The taller side is longer by the same amount even at full extension... this indicates that its not a bushing issue, now, doesn't it? I'm confused now.
    Last edited by Hypr5; 12-10-2004 at 02:39 PM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default by chance you think yo have 2 difft shocks there?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hypr5
    What is the best way to break the bolt free? This thing isn't coming off with PB and a torque wrench. Any ideas on how to make this a little easier?

    edit:
    The taller side is longer by the same amount even at full extension... this indicates that its not a bushing issue, now, doesn't it? I'm confused now.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    261

    Default

    Part #s are the same and they both look identical. When both shocks were off the car and I tightened the top nuts, there are the same amount of threads showing so they have to be the same legnth.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default

    Somethings going on there... Hopefully just something stupid your over looking
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    261

    Default

    lol yeah. it's really frustrating, but now I've done the job twice and loosened / retorqued all of the suspension arms, parked the car so the higher side was pushed in more for extended periods of time, etc. I'm having ZERO luck here. I just want to go back to stock height and forget the whole project now!!
    bah.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    England (home) Germany (work)
    Posts
    256

    Default

    I had a similar problem but only be a few mm and it just sorted its self out!

    I no this might sound obvious but you have replaced the top mounts right?!

    You wouldn’t be the first not to!


    Quote Originally Posted by Hypr5
    Hey guys,

    I lowered my car using H&R springs and Bilstein shocks.
    I did this on Friday and have driven about 160 miles on them. They appear to have lowered the car a small amount. The driver's side came down 1.5" and the passenger side came down .75" I double checked the work and both sides were assembled in the same exact way.

    What could affect the height like this? The rears went together and are the same height, but not the front.

    Thanks!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default I never messed with my top mounts,

    and my car only leans like I'm a fatass (without me in the car) I attribute mine to torquing by guess when I did my front suspension. I never bothered doing it the correct way, I guessed at the running position with weight and then torqued it cause you CAN'T tighten mine with it all together. Cross tube too close to floor boards.

    If you are that far off then somethings retarded under there. The car DID NOT lean before you did this swaperama? I'm wondering about your anti swaybar in front, it has to be something embarassing wrong now. ummm....bent swaybar? was the car in any accidents? Does the swaybar have different length links on it? mann... wish I could spend 5 minutes looking at it for you man.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    130

    Default I torqued mine all together....

    Loosen the bolt on the cross tube, unbolt the rear sway bar, spin the sway bar mounts out of the way, re-torque the cross tube and then torque the bushing pre-loaded. Then just reverse everything and ba-da-boom-ba-da-big your'e done.......A total pain in the ass, but that's the only way I could get a wrench on the back side of the bushing.

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