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Thread: angle torque-ing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    86

    Default angle torque-ing

    whats the reason for the angle torquing required when re-installing the head??

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    221

    Default

    I don't know, but I did mine today. I made my own guide by drawing a 4" circle on a piece of thin cardboard (that comes with the headgasket), and marking a line at !2"00 and 3:00, or 90*. I made a mark on my extension and my son held it in place and told me when to stop. Worked fine.
    Good luck!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    i just do a 1/4 turn by eye, i will not be using torque to yield bolts when i build my monster m20 (soon i hope) race tech studs through out, pricy but cool. i usually use my snap on dial type torque wrench and i've seen the TTY bolts break (not actually snap, but release) anywere from 55 to 90 flbs usuallu theres almost 20 lbs difference across the motor
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    404

    Default

    Angle torquing is more accurate then a conventional torque wrench. It eliminates the effect bolt-thread and bolt-head-washer friction has on torque wrench accuracy. It's use on both conventional and torque-to-yield bolts.

    Paul Shovestul



    Quote Originally Posted by kiNGMak
    whats the reason for the angle torquing required when re-installing the head??
    .....Got to keep the loonies on the paath.

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