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Thread: OT: Any roadies (cyclists) here? I need some advice...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    755

    Default OT: Any roadies (cyclists) here? I need some advice...

    Bought a 2001 Giant OCR3 last October to get back on the bike some. Upgraded from my '86 Schwinn Traveler (complete with downtube shifters and 27" wheels...). I've been averaging 60+ miles/week on local roads, and I think I'm going to stick with cycling. It's great therapy (not to mention exercise!) I'm finding that I like the road geometry of the OCR, and it is an easy bike to ride, but the components suck. I paid ~$400 for the bike, and got my money's worth for sure. But, are there bikes that are a step up from entry level that anyone would recommend? I'm on a Giant size medium, and am not the typical cyclist physique (I'm a tad on the heavy side at 175#). My pace on local roads is about 18-19mph average, with average rides of about 2 hours, 30-35 miles or so.

    Just curious what I should be looking for next. I see lots of Treks, Orbeas, Kleins, Colnagos, and some Giant TCRs out there, not too many folks keep their OCRs for long, even the 1s. My investment would be for 3-5 years minimum.


    Thanks for any and all advice.
    Bill B.
    95 525i


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    868

    Default What is your budget?

    If you keep this up, by the time you are ready for another bike, you will be riding stronger, faster and longer.....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default Hey Bill, nice to see another roadie in the forum.....

    I have to do this in two haves as I have probs with big posts. Although no longer at the top of my form (far from it now), I was a competitive racer for 10 years in Canada before realizing that it wouldn't pay the bills forever (horrible pension plan as well) and it was taking a toll on my body (broken vertebrae and such). I packed it in and went to school, but learned so much in my years, great times. There are plenty of options out there right now and it can be overwhelming. After starting to ride again after years off the bike, things got lighter, wheels got stronger and most of all, everything got more expensive. But, if you're serious about riding, which I hope you are, you'll want a material that will last. I’ve ridden every material out there and carbon is the all around champ. Its light, its stiff, its comfy and it will outlast aluminum (appears to be a popular choice for its weight savings these days). I went through a bike each season (>50 races and >25000km a year takes its toll) and noticed aluminum weakening by august.

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default 2nd half....

    I now ride a Trek Postal bike acquired through old ‘connections’ and love it. As proper sizing makes a huge difference, especially over 100 miles, get a frame measured to the nearest cm or two (the only downside to some of Treks retail bikes are they are measured in two cm increments) and get the stem size and handlebars and seat adjusted properly (not to assume you aren’t a sizing guru and have your Giant dialed in). Many books on the subject and many tools in bike shops available. I figured my dimensions and bike specs when I was 15 years old and have only tweeked them slightly in 16 years.
    Last edited by Dave M; 08-12-2004 at 11:12 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default Part 3, yeeesh....

    So, I haven’t helped you decide on a brand, but, if I may have an opinion, I hold that it is much less important than the ability to fit properly and the material itself. Sorry for rambling, it’s a passion of mine I am re-discovering. In fact, heres a pic of me at my first national championships in 7 years this summer(blue guy). Keep it up.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    257

    Default Consider what you're paying for this advice but...

    After having been away from road cycling for a long time I'm going to pull the trigger on buying a roadbike pretty soon. Being way too anal I have been looking at options now for way longer than I care to admit.
    About the only way I can justify buying something of quality (which means a decent frame and at least Ultegra components and under 18lbs.) is to buy it used. You didn't mention a budget so I'm just assuming being an E34 owner you want a lot of value for your $.
    You didn't mention a budget but I would try to buy the best bike you can justify spending the $ on. Dave's right, carbon is the **** if you can afford it. Titanium would be my next choice. I recently test rode a 2000 LeMond titanium Victoire in good shape, seller was asking $1300, I'm thinking of offering him $1000 but think I can find something newer with better value if I spend a bit more. Used (search eBay under "sporting goods," "cycling," "roadbikes and parts," "complete bikes.") bikes are plentiful and the depreciation is hard in most cases. If you're willing to spend $1500 for used you'll find almost too many choices. Beyond that amount you can have anything you want practically. For value in 'used' aluminum I think the 2002/3 Specialized Allez Comp, or Pro (even better componentry), and the Felt F35 or F45 has good value. In 'new' Supergo has their housebrand Scattante carbon fiber frame with Ultegra for about $1500, and minus the seatpost, it gets decent reviews on roadbike review. If you find something you like look it up on http://www.roadbikereview.com/ and see if it's reviewed favorably.
    I hope some of this info helps. Keep us posted on what you decided on.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Bloomsbury, NJ
    Posts
    132

    Default Hey Bill...I really love my Trek 2200...

    ...and I'm approx 6' 3" and weigh around 205 (not your 'typical' cyclist build either). I ride with a bunch of IT guys with fat wallets, who just "had to" have the then-top-o-the-line carbon fiber Trek 5200's and 5500's. My 2200 is aluminum, and is fine for a novice to intermediate skill level (cost me about $1500 total). I log typically a couple thousand miles a year, and I'll probably never get rid of it. I've ridden the 5500, and especially at about 3500-3700 beans (+/-), I personally found it had too much flex (ok, AND I couldn't afford it). It's obviously important to have decent, reliable equipment, but a 3500 frame ain't gonna' make you a better rider

    I've seen Trek 2200's for sale on eBay for a decent price.

    Hope that helps,
    Tim G.

    Quote Originally Posted by billb
    Bought a 2001 Giant OCR3 last October to get back on the bike some. Upgraded from my '86 Schwinn Traveler (complete with downtube shifters and 27" wheels...). I've been averaging 60+ miles/week on local roads, and I think I'm going to stick with cycling. It's great therapy (not to mention exercise!) I'm finding that I like the road geometry of the OCR, and it is an easy bike to ride, but the components suck. I paid ~$400 for the bike, and got my money's worth for sure. But, are there bikes that are a step up from entry level that anyone would recommend? I'm on a Giant size medium, and am not the typical cyclist physique (I'm a tad on the heavy side at 175#). My pace on local roads is about 18-19mph average, with average rides of about 2 hours, 30-35 miles or so.

    Just curious what I should be looking for next. I see lots of Treks, Orbeas, Kleins, Colnagos, and some Giant TCRs out there, not too many folks keep their OCRs for long, even the 1s. My investment would be for 3-5 years minimum.


    Thanks for any and all advice.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    558

    Default I'm in a slightly different category; I mountain bike...

    and I have often considered to get myself a road bike. I own a '98 GT LTS-3 mounatin bike but if you're serious, I can say a few things in a nutshell about road bikes as some of my friends who mountain bike also road bike. Any decent brand of bike should come with a lifetime guarantee on the frame with the frame weighing 3 lbs. It should have at least Shimano 105 components. The big thing will be to ride it. Aluminum bikes can feel very stiff, steel will feel softer. Two good ways to check the stiffness are to ride over big bumps sitting on the seat, and to pedal hard standing up - you can feel a flexible bike flexing as you pedal. There are slightly varying styles: touring, race and criterium. Touring bikes will be heavier and feel softer than the other 2 (wider tires, smaller head tube angle, more rake on the front fork). I don't know the type of ride you do but wieght is an issue when going uphill. Race and criterium should weigh about same, but the criterium will feel more responsive (higher head tube angle, less rake). This will be most obvious when trying to ride without any hands. A touring bike will be stable and straight. A racing bike may feel a little unstable and the front wheel will oscillate as you shift more weight to the back tire. A criterium bike will almost be impossible to ride very far without hands on the bars. HTH

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    520

    Default iF ANY OF YOU NEED A DEAL ON MAVIC WHEELS...

    I have super deals on Mavic wheels in Canada, Mavic is one of the best bicycle wheel and hub manufacturers in the world.
    If any of you are interested I am able to get you great pricing with full warranties.....
    I used to be the service manager for mavic/gary fisher/lemond bicycles (trek) in canada.
    We saw a lot of carbon frames come back cracked but it was usually due to a crash and impact of some kind... you cannot beat their lightness!
    ^°^ ><((({º>°°

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    97

    Default Cool stuff Dave...

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M
    So, I haven’t helped you decide on a brand, but, if I may have an opinion, I hold that it is much less important than the ability to fit properly and the material itself. Sorry for rambling, it’s a passion of mine I am re-discovering. In fact, heres a pic of me at my first national championships in 7 years this summer(blue guy). Keep it up.
    Never have raced, though I've logged a lot of miles with racer types like you. ;-) I think there's lots of good advice in this thread. Random thoughts based on my experience..............

    - used is a good way to get a very nice bike for "mid-range" kinds of money, but you have to know your bikes pretty well.
    - Ultegra is great, but I love Dura Ace. It's very quick and very reliable
    - Fit is definitely important, critical in fact as Dave says.
    - Ti is a really nice frame material. I own steel, Al, and Ti. I've put miles in on carbon bikes, but 1) not enough to get used to the feeling and 2) not on the newer framesets.
    - I've been riding a Litespeed Catalyst w/DuraAce for ~4 years with basically no upgrades. Which is to say, unless you're racing, once you get a good bike IMO it should be able to last you for a long time.
    - Image means a lot in the cycling world. Decide what it means to you before you purchase.

    Part of the problem with modern life is the excess of choices. There are way too many bikes to try out, as this (very) partial list of road-bike manufacturers shows: Basso, Bianchi, Cervelo, Cinelli, Colnago, CoMotion, 'Dale, Devinci, Felt, Fuji, Giant, Jamis, K2, Kestrel, KHS, Klein, Kona, LandShark, LeMond, Litespeed, Look, Marin, Masi, Merckx, Merlin ;-), Orbea, Pinarello, Schwinn, Serotta, Seven, Specialized, Trek, Viner.

    There is no "one right bike" IMO; any of several would be great to own. I'd say go do some test rides and find the bike that fits and is the most 'inspiring' to ride.

    "Fun bike":


    Commuter:


    Peter

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