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Thread: Bleeding Procedure

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    13

    Default Bleeding Procedure

    Need a clear bleeding procedure. I have a 96 525i and I do not know how to bleed it.

    Do I start the car? Is the rad cap on or off? Is the little pressure relif valve open or closed? Do I let it run until there is no air but fluid coming from the pressure valve? Do I squeeze the hoses? If so when, when the car is running?

    Would air in the system cause my temp guage to act funny? My heater not to work?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boston, Ma
    Posts
    441

    Default

    Easiest way to do it is to go and buy yourself, im sure you can rent it from pep boys or autozone, i vacuum bleeder pump. Its a little hand pump with a gauge that has a line that goes to a container and then to the bleeder valve. As for bleeding, leave the car off, remove the cap off of the resevoir and make sure it has plenty of fluid. With the bleeder valve loosened start pumping on the vacuum pump until fluid is coming out in a stream. If you dont get the pump, do the same as above except dont open the bleeder valve. If you get a buddy to help you it will make it easier. Get him to pump on the brakes, or clutch, whichever your doing. If your doing the clutch you might have to pull the pedal back up. Pump it several times, then open the bleeder valve, close it, and repeat, until the fluid comes out in a stream and not bubbly. It may take awhile if you do it by pumping the pedals, its take a couple minutes if you get the vacuum pump. Hope this helps, and have fun.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,235

    Default You forgot - how much brake fluid to fill the radiator?

    Quote Originally Posted by bjl4776
    Easiest way to do it is to go and buy yourself, im sure you can rent it from pep boys or autozone, i vacuum bleeder pump. Its a little hand pump with a gauge that has a line that goes to a container and then to the bleeder valve. As for bleeding, leave the car off, remove the cap off of the resevoir and make sure it has plenty of fluid. With the bleeder valve loosened start pumping on the vacuum pump until fluid is coming out in a stream. If you dont get the pump, do the same as above except dont open the bleeder valve. If you get a buddy to help you it will make it easier. Get him to pump on the brakes, or clutch, whichever your doing. If your doing the clutch you might have to pull the pedal back up. Pump it several times, then open the bleeder valve, close it, and repeat, until the fluid comes out in a stream and not bubbly. It may take awhile if you do it by pumping the pedals, its take a couple minutes if you get the vacuum pump. Hope this helps, and have fun.



    Good procedure, much like the one I use, but for the brakes, not the radiator!
    Robin

    72 Chevy K10
    01 E39 M5

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    13

    Default

    Funny. I like that. So, back to the rad? Still need help...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boston, Ma
    Posts
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    Default

    Wow, that one went completely over my head, i feel like a dumbass for that one, at least now youll now what to do if you have to change a brake line, hehe

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Hey no problem. I am just glad this forum is available. Trust me, I would rather the brakes than this issue. It is kicking my ass. See the thread below, Still Overheating.

    Thanks

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,235

    Default My 535 may be different but...

    Quote Originally Posted by fenhow
    Funny. I like that. So, back to the rad? Still need help...
    Here's what I do for the M30:

    You'll want the car off, parked nose up, bleed screw open. Fill until the fluid oozes from the screw, then close the screw. Keep filling until the reservoir "full cold" mark is hit. Start the car and run until the hoses are hot, then bleed the screw once more to get any lingering air out.

    Check the level the next day when cold and top it off if necessary. I don't think you can possibly damage it by overfilling, it will purge itself if the level is too high.

    Some people drill a tiny hole in the thermostat to let air through while the t-stat is still closed, but you need to pull the t-stat to do this.

    HTH

    Robin
    Robin

    72 Chevy K10
    01 E39 M5

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boston, Ma
    Posts
    441

    Default

    Alright, let me try this again with the radiator. Open the bleeder valve and add coolant until coolant comes out of the bleeder valve. Put the cap back on and tighten the bleeder screw. Set temperature control to full warm and start the car. When the car is completely warm loosen the bleeder screw until coolant is coming out doesn't have air bubbles in it. Its kind of hard to tell, but when it starts coming out consistantly is when it is good and bleed.Turn the car off and let it cool down, then all you have to do is check the coolant level and then your ready to go. I think i covered just about all of the bleeding dealing with the car. Hope this one helps, i still can't believe i did that.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Great deal. I will try it. I am praying that my issue is not a head gasket or crack. I am not getting any heat when the car gets hot. I will try this.

    Thanks

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