Big Time Poster
HELP : Thrust Arm removal - getting to the 22mm nut !!!
OK, the ball joint pops loose easily. But now, how in the heck does one get a wrench on the 22mm nut on the end of the bolt that holds the arm to the frame??!!
There is no room in there!
I can't even tell that removing the sway bar mount would help.
Ideas????
TIA
Robert Callaway
Dallas, TX
'94 530im 143k mi
'94 Land Cruiser FZJ-80 202k mi.
"If I could have back all the time and money I ever spent on cars.......I'd spend it all on cars."
You're lucky your ball joints popped out easily, usally this is the problem end. To get to the 22mm end, use an open end or box end wrench to hold the nut, while using a socket to turn the bolt end. BMW recommends to replace all the 22mm self locking nuts. Remember to lower the car to the floor or on ramps before you torque down the arms to the frame. Otherwise the bushings will wear prematurely.
Super Moderator
Robert this is the tool modification that bmw shows on the service bulletin
Just buy a cheapo harbor freight 22mm wrench and grind the sides as indicated to fit.
Originally Posted by Super90
3 Grand Master
bill, if i could get your attention please.....is there anything that is an "easy" fix on the 850 (ie doesn't involve more than solder and elbow grease) that is usually broken....this man's car is starting to look real jurry rigged and though i owe him the assistance, it would be nice if i could be "un-surprised" about something.
Big Time Poster
Bill, that is exactly the issue!!
Off to buy a cheap wrench, then!
Thnks
Robert Callaway
Dallas, TX
'94 530im 143k mi
'94 Land Cruiser FZJ-80 202k mi.
"If I could have back all the time and money I ever spent on cars.......I'd spend it all on cars."
Super Moderator
Such as?
Major Contributor
I used the closed end of the wrench, and it worked fine- just had to wiggle it in. You have to be careful when torquing it- if you let the wrench alone while doing it, it can get jammed in there.
Custom Turbocharged 1991 535iM - 135k mi.
Big Time Poster
Next issues!
Bill, the modified wrench worked perfectly. Old left arm is out and the new one going in. I am trying to tighten the ball joint to the steering plate, but the tapered pin is just turning in there. How do we hold that still? We don't want to put the impact gun on it, do we?
While thinking about that, I went to the right side and am trying to get that ball joint to break loose. It's not so happy about the idea as its friend on the other side. I didn't even need the pickle fork on the left side. Trying to get the fork into the right side, but now the tines of the fork are hitting against the brake backing plate. Do we need to remove the rotor and backing plate to do this? I am coming in with the fork from the center line of the car and hitting toward that front right corner.
Thanks for the info guys. We're getting there!!
I love how easy the manual makes this sound.
Robert Callaway
Dallas, TX
'94 530im 143k mi
'94 Land Cruiser FZJ-80 202k mi.
"If I could have back all the time and money I ever spent on cars.......I'd spend it all on cars."
Super Moderator
Robert you get to be a little more resourceful, you'll have to come up with
something like a big clamp to push the arm down into the socket to lock the tapered pin from spinning.. or a long lever where you can pry the arm down while tightening the nut.. Its a morse taper on the pin and socket it seats into meaning that there are conflicting angles on them so if you squeeze it down into place tight it will lock the pin from turning...
Big Time Poster
Gotcha! Now, are we using the pickle fork correctly? See above description.
I hate that thing!
Robert Callaway
Dallas, TX
'94 530im 143k mi
'94 Land Cruiser FZJ-80 202k mi.
"If I could have back all the time and money I ever spent on cars.......I'd spend it all on cars."
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