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Thread: Front or Rear Sway Bars?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    558

    Default Front or Rear Sway Bars?

    Which sway bars make the biggest difference: front or rear? I heard from a reliable source that you get the most bang for the buck with the rear sway bars. True?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    1,235

    Default I guess it depends on which end you want to keep on the road...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hector
    Which sway bars make the biggest difference: front or rear? I heard from a reliable source that you get the most bang for the buck with the rear sway bars. True?
    If you just get rears, then you'll probably end up with understeer since the stock setup is pretty well balanced as it is. If you make the back stiffer than stock, the car will handle poorly unless you stiffen up the front to compensate. The standard packages (Dinan, Racing Dynamics) for front and rear tend to make the front too stiff when both set on the stiffest setting, hence the "fronts full soft, rears full hard" advice from e34.net.

    - Robin
    Robin

    72 Chevy K10
    01 E39 M5

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Lincoln, NE
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    559

    Default

    Actually, stiffening just the rear will reduce understeer, and possibly create oversteer. Most E34s are closer to the 'understeer' side of the equation, so people like to stiffen the rear first sometimes.

    Oversteer - the rear end wants to come out
    Understeer - the front end wants to push and not turn

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    558

    Default Thanks fellas.

    Might start with the rears. BMA has the M5 for about $150 or so.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    597

    Default

    Pacific BMW had them for cheaper if you price the parts according to the list on Bruno's website. Once I finish paying for some classes I'm ordering mine.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Chicago
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    600

    Default

    They both make a difference. Remember that these are for sway. A tighter rear will increase oversteer-for more neutral handling, but the front will still sway/lean. A tighter front (w/o the tighter rear) will yield more understeer. The BEST option is to get both Fr&Rr and have a more neutral handling car and have both the front and rear sway less. It can get confusing with the effects, but it is always good to have a complete balanced system.



    Quote Originally Posted by Hector
    Which sway bars make the biggest difference: front or rear? I heard from a reliable source that you get the most bang for the buck with the rear sway bars. True?
    Brandon J

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    159

    Default

    Are planning to take your car to the track? If not, then I would stick with the stock set-up. No reason to mess with the design, cause I believe that the gains will be hardly noticeable. And, yes, most cars are intentionally designed to push (have understeer) because it is easier for a non-skilled driver to correct their pour driving habits (ie. picking the incorrect time to turn the wheel when entering a corner). Most people tend to enter a corner sooner than they are suppose too, and end up having to straighten the car and then re-turn the wheel to complete the turn. If the car was set up loose (oversteer) that condition could cause the unskilled driver to loose control of their car real quick, especially if they went into the turn hot. It is very important to understand how weight is being transferred from corner to corner when initiating a turn and more importantly how the suspension change would effect the transfer of weight and the results that can be expected. It is not something that is easy for the non-profession driver to grasp over night. That is why I am curious if you plan to go to the track with your car. If you've already spent hours on the track with your current set-up and feel that something needs to change in-order to improve your handling, then I say give it a try. But, keep-in-mind, any time you make a change, DO ONE THING AT A TIME. It is the only true way to know which change improved your set-up. I hope that helps with your decission, cause I hate to see people waste money on something they really do not need. Most people can improve their cars handling characteristics by simply learning how to be smooth behind the wheel. Unfortunately, it is easier said then done.
    '94 540I A (149K miles on orig. Nik motor) & EAT enhanced

  8. #8
    Unregistered Guest

    Default

    This may be a duh, however I found the most dramatic diference switching to an "R" rated tire compound, OK so they only last about 10,000 Km however the performance is measurable in the seat of your pants. The next most dramitic thing I have felt is the springs and shocks, I have found to make a "seat of the pants" diference with sway bars it needs to be a dramatic increase, small increases can change a track time by a few tenth's. It is not as simple as hot roding an economy car which tend to be tuned to keep your mother safe in a snow storm, the BMW's tend to be engineered for driving in the first place.

    Voice from the baren North

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    159

    Default

    I agree, that so many things effect your handling, including those items you mentioned. Even the temperature and humidity level play a huge roll. I have found though years of racing, that most people can not truly notice changes in their suspension. Not only have we've done it to fellow racers, but I have heard many confirming stories around the track which help support my claim, we tell a drive that we made changes to his/her car and never touch a thing. Guess what they typically come back and say? Yep, you probably guessed right. Man what ever you did was excellent and it really helped the car. Conclusion: the drive is typically the problem and not your set-up. Learn how to drive smooth and you can beat the best equipment on the track, with a very limited budget. Just my 2 cents.
    '94 540I A (149K miles on orig. Nik motor) & EAT enhanced

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default

    did you go from an H to an R rated tire?

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