Oh and the hose that cools the alternator cracked and was brittle ..Pelican parts down the street had one for $14!
Well it happened again..my Fan clutch went out in at 70,000 mile and now again at 125,000.
since I was in there I replace the radiator, thermostat, water pump , upper & lower hoses and serptine belt.
Also I am getting the 55 shimmy again...Should I just replace my upper and lower control arms , links and idler arm and sway bar bushings?
Oh and the hose that cools the alternator cracked and was brittle ..Pelican parts down the street had one for $14!
50MPH - 60MPH SHIMMY https://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/E38_Shimmy.htm
last year I fixed the shimmy on an E32, there the problem was the center tie-rod joint.
the shimmy can have many sources and any slack in the front suspension/steering can allow it to start, m5 upper control arm bushings proved themselves longer lived then the green 740 bushings back when i worked on bmws for a living, weak upper bushings can cause or be damaged by the shimmy, larger and heavier wheels magnify the issue (higher road force, more then balance being the concern, a wheel assy can balance at 0 but be out of round and cause a shimmy) swaybar links won't cause a shimmy for the record
Last edited by winfred; 04-27-2019 at 08:32 AM.
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
Thanks Shogun & Winfred..i will put it up on a rack and check the center tie rod and associated parts.
I did the full suspension when I bought it in 2003 with 64K on it also has the Sachs sport kit w/ M tech sways...Stock wheel
P.S. Have not heard from Gayle since she moved to Clearwater Florida
I would convert to electric. I did so too on my 530 and I am also considering upgrading the a/c fan to a larger fan. I also installed an OEM arab pulley to spin the pump faster.
accumulating the parts to go dual electric fans on the 535 waggone, living in the fires of hell that is the gulf coast and having a city commute my clutch stays kicked in a annoying amount, kills a good bit of power taking off between stoplights. i harvested a twin fan assy from a gmc terrain that was missing the mounting ears that is almost perfectly sized for my v12 radiator, gonna wire it up gm style with the 3 relay set up to two temp switches that are going to be drilled and tapped into the thermostat housing, the triple relay is the easiest way to control two fans and have 2 speeds at the same time, no resistors to burn out either, they run in series in low and parallel in high with just two switch grounds to control. the stock electric will be unmolested and remain a back up, i will post the results in my thread
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
I looked into an electric retrofit a few years back because the clutch fan takes a buttload of power. Put on the back burner for the most part but when I was looking seemed everyone was using some sort of Volvo fan/relay setup with real good results. Of course I forgot the particular vehicles involved since then. I changed my thermostat to Stant 14188 185f/85c Thermostat Which proved to be a very good move. Still get the school bus sound but only a few seconds. Then again I don't use AC so not sure how an improvement in that state would be.
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
probably 940/960 for a fan assy, they have a similar sized radiator so the shroud/fan would be easily adaptable. id probably be doing mine this weekend but barry is about to piss on our heads, already windy
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
I think that was it. They use the relay from it also, not sure what fan switch they use in the radiator but BMWs stock seems to hot.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy