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Thread: My 535 will be running perfectly, then suddenly,,,

  1. #1
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    Default My 535 will be running perfectly, then suddenly,,,

    Posting for: Lindaoz

    Hi Bimmernuts, I would appreciate ANY help with my car's problem.
    My '89 535 will be running perfectly, then suddenly the ABS light comes on, and
    the engine cuts ! I pull over to the side of the road, start the car again
    and it will run perfectly for another day/ week/ month, and it happens again
    .
    It sometimes has happened several times in one day, and once, not for a
    month.
    Last week the engine cut when I was halfway through passing a truck --- Very
    dangerous.

    The "Experts " have told me (1) The cranking sensor needed replacing - I
    did this - no difference ! (2) the fuel pump needed replacing, -did this -
    still no difference. (3) Plug leads- ditto. (4) air register - ditto. (5)new
    iridium plugs - Ditto ! Distributor checked, timing checked, ABS unit seems
    to be working o.k. during braking; also, sometimes ABS light will come on
    for a while, without engine cutting out. Ignition switch seems O.K.

    I would appreciate any clues, suggestions, solutions that fellow bimmernuts
    have to offer !

    Cheers,
    Lindaoz.
    Last edited by bimmer nut; 08-31-2017 at 06:56 AM.

    A Bimmer Nut '99 Z3, '06 330cicm zhp, '69 r60, Owner/Operator of www.Bimmer.info and www.BimmerNut.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default

    I would check the ABS sensors, sensors or wire problem. I assume one of them has a wire problem. I also had that on my E32 750, sometimes the light would come on and I found a broken wire which still most of the time had contact and the plug which goes from wheel well into the engine bay was broken (crumbled away due to age). I used from a German site this instruction how to check, translate that:
    ABS-Sensoren einfach und schnell pruefen Bezieht sich auf E32 , Baujahr 08/1988 ,730i, sollte aber auch noch fuer andere Modelle gelten

    Die Sensoren sind recht einfach mit einem einfachen Ohmmeter zu pruefen. Deckel für Motronic-Kasten abnehmen ( 4Schrauben ). Der Kasten sitzt auf der Beifahrerseite = rechte Seite vor der Windschutzscheibe im Motorraum.
    Das ABS-Modul sitzt Richtung Kuehler. Das braune Relais zwischen den Modulen ist das ABS-Relais. Stecker vom ABS-Modul entriegeln und abziehen. Gegen Masse messen geht nicht,weil beide Adern (Seele und Abschirmung)
    direkt auf die Pins des Steckers am ABS-Steuergerät gehen und von dort die Masse erst erhalten. Zieht man den Stecker zum Messen ab, ist natuerlich die Masse weg. Man sollte so vorgehen:

    Stecker vom ABS-Modul abziehen und umdrehen. Dann sieht man eine Doppelreihe mit Kontakten. Eine kuerzere und eine etwas laengere Leiste. Die kuerzere Leiste hat die ungeraden Zahlen, die laengere die geraden Zahlen der Pins. Gezaehlt wird von der Seite aus, wo sich NICHT der Kabelbaum befindet, also vom Kotfluegel aus. Dann einfach das Ohmmeter an folgende Pins halten:

    Pin 4 und 6 = Sensor links vorne 1000 Ohm (rote Seele) Seele = Farbe
    Pin 9 und 7 = Sensor links hinten 1000 Ohm (weisse Seele)
    Pin 21 und 11 = Sensor rechts vorne 1000 Ohm (gelbe Seele)
    Pin 26 und 24 = Sensor rechts hinten 1000 Ohm (gruene Seele)

    Wobei 4, 9, 21, 26 die Masseadern=Schirmungen sind.(transparente Isolierung)

    Man kann den Stecker mit 3 Schrauben auch problemlos oeffnen. Dann kann man sich nach den Farben richten und sieht auch die Nummern der Pins. Die Widerstandswerte können streuen zwischen 600 und 1600 Ohm. Liegt man darunter, handelt es sich um einen Kurzschluß auf der Leitung oder im Sensor selbst. Die Sensoren haben als Karosseriedurchfuehrung einen zweipoligen Stecker. Jeweils einen in den Radhaeusern fuer vorne. Die Hinteren befinden sich wahrscheinlich unter der Ruecksitzbank.
    An den Steckvorrichtungen kann man zwar auch messen, kommt aber schlechter ran als an den Stecker direkt am ABS-Modul. Sehr wahrscheinlich sind die Zuleitungskabel in den Radhaeusern zu den Sensoren hin unterbrochen,weil diese ja staendig in Bewegung sind. Hier dann den Sensor ausbauen und messen.

    http://www.7-forum.com/forum/24/abs-...efen-9358.html

    Here English language all nominal values https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/491en/index.htm
    workshop repair manual E34 https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/741en/index.htm


    In any case, find a shop with a diagnosis tool for BMW, such a fault cane be diagnosed instead of throwing new parts into the car and hoping it will solve the problems.

    Advanced Hints and Tips : BMW ABS problems http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/content/...w_abs_problems

    ENGINE APPEARS TO MISFIRE OR STUMBLE INTERMITINTLY

    MODELS AFFECTED: 5 Series(E34), 7 series(E32), 8 series(E31) all equipped with ACS.
    FAULT: Under certain specific conditions an apparent engine misfire or bucking may occur. This is not an engine misfire.
    CAUSE: Short (less than 100 milliseconds) fuel injection cut-off, as a result of MSR (engine drag torque control) regulation. This is a normal ASC function that may occur under these conditions: -The vehicle is equipped with ASC -Vehicle speed between 45 and 60 MPH -A rough road surface (e.g. potholes, railroad tracks) -Light throttle(accelerator pedal only depressed 1/8) -ASC not switched off.
    SOLUTION: Replace the ASC control unit. no further diagnosis of the ABS/ASC system should be necessary.


    ABS WARNING LIGHT COMES ON
    MODELS AFFECTED: All with ABS
    FAULT: ABS warning light comes on intermittently. Normal troubleshooting procedures find no defect.
    CAUSE: If cars have recently had two new tires, or snow tires put on. Sometimes when the car is driven over 50 MPH.
    SOLUTION: Check all four tires on the car, make sure they are the same brand, style, and size. Check if any of the new tires have substantially more tread than the rest. These differences may cause enough variance in rolling diameters to confuse the ABS control unit, which intern gives a false signal to the ABS warning light.

    ABS, ASC, AND ASC+T MALFUNCTION
    MODELS AFFECTED: All models equipped with ABS,ASC OR ASC+T
    FAULT: Any of the ABS ASC and ASC+T systems inoperative, intermittently inoperative, or illuminating the warning lamp.
    CAUSE: All BMW'S with slip control systems use 4 wheel speed sensors which monitor each wheels speed of rotation with a high accuracy. The system control unit uses this information to calculate a vehicle speed. In this way it detects wheel speed variation. If the inputs vary from each other by a certain amount, the control unit is not able to do the calculation reliably (plausibility fault) and takes its self off-line as a safety precaution(fail-safe).This can be because the wheels and tires are non-approved partsand therefore do not agree with the system.
    SOLUTION: Make sure the vehicle is fitted with BMW approved wheels and tires. Then do further diagnostic testing to check if fault is resolved.
    Last edited by shogun; 08-30-2017 at 06:32 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    ABS, ASC, AND ASC+T MALFUNCTION
    MODELS AFFECTED: All models equipped with ABS,ASC OR ASC+T
    FAULT: Any of the ABS ASC and ASC+T systems inoperative, intermittently inoperative, or illuminating the warning lamp.
    CAUSE: All BMW'S with slip control systems use 4 wheel speed sensors which monitor each wheels speed of rotation with a high accuracy. The system control unit uses this information to calculate a vehicle speed. In this way it detects wheel speed variation. If the inputs vary from each other by a certain amount, the control unit is not able to do the calculation reliably (plausibility fault) and takes its self off-line as a safety precaution(fail-safe).This can be because the wheels and tires are non-approved partsand therefore do not agree with the system.
    ^This. Working on the same type of problem on a 95 540. This vehicle made it to limp mode and wont recover on it's own. Pull each wheel and be sure to clean the speed sensors of all metallic dust. That alone will cause the ABS error which will trip the other errors.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  4. #4
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    Thanks. I passed on this link to Linda and told her to jump on here herself to join the discussion.

    A Bimmer Nut '99 Z3, '06 330cicm zhp, '69 r60, Owner/Operator of www.Bimmer.info and www.BimmerNut.com

  5. #5
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    just a thought, usually if you have a low voltage condition while driving the first light that comes on is the abs then the airbag, then the car stalls, if the abs comes on then the car stalls i wouldn't think it was an abs fault. I would check the main relay and or replace since its cheap. And check the fusible links for hairlinecracks, anything that could intterupt power to the engine computer and abs etc.


  6. #6
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    Fusible Link A can go intermittent and kill power to the the DME box.
    You can conveniently check this at your D100 Diagnostic Connector, pin 14. The voltage should be 12V at all times. If it is low when cranking, then Fusible A is your problem.
    Or the main relay, as Bill R. posted.

    There are 2 fusible links, A and B, A is for the DME box, B is for the fuse box under rear seat left side. Pics are on my website.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R. View Post
    just a thought, usually if you have a low voltage condition while driving the first light that comes on is the abs then the airbag, then the car stalls, if the abs comes on then the car stalls i wouldn't think it was an abs fault. I would check the main relay and or replace since its cheap. And check the fusible links for hairlinecracks, anything that could intterupt power to the engine computer and abs etc.
    Good to see you poke your neck in here, Hope all is well Bill.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Fusible Link A can go intermittent and kill power to the the DME box.
    You can conveniently check this at your D100 Diagnostic Connector, pin 14. The voltage should be 12V at all times. If it is low when cranking, then Fusible A is your problem.
    Or the main relay, as Bill R. posted.

    There are 2 fusible links, A and B, A is for the DME box, B is for the fuse box under rear seat left side. Pics are on my website.
    Thanks for spelling out the procedure Erich, I doubt the TIS makes the process anywhere near as succinct.

    And very grateful as even an old hand like me didn't know it to be that black and white when measuring 12V at the diagnostics connector. Danke!

    I would add to this however a caution, that hairline cracks in those links under the rear seat can require more than a visual inspection, I had one that caused ABS troubles amongst other things for years in a 10/88 (early) 535i, in which only an inspection under a microscope (out of the car), ie at the very least, a good light and a big magnifying glass, could confirm the crack!
    Last edited by genphreak; 10-01-2017 at 01:28 AM.

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