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Thread: Cold air on passenger side

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,483

    Default Cold air on passenger side

    Pulled the heater valve today and cleaned it. Checked to see if the solenoids were working properly, they were. Ran the car and still cold air on passenger side.....Disconnected the wires to the heater core and drove it again but still cold air on the passenger side. By theory if there is no power to the heater valve solenoid I should be getting hot air....correct? Why would I only be getting hot air on the drivers side and cold air on the passengers side?

    What does this flap do? Passengerside temperature mixing flap

    Following my logic. Kind of scary huh??? Anyway I now believe the problem lies with the cold air flapper on the passenger side. My reasoning is that prior to this problem when ever I would turn off the blower motor I would hear a thump after about 60 seconds. It no longer does this. I now believe this was the cold air flapper on the passenger side, and it was on its way out. Question now, is it the stepper motor, the linkage rod between the stepper motor, or the flapper itself. I know I will have to remove the front console to access the stepper motor but will I have to disassemble the IHKA to repair a broken flapper. I have seen picture of these beast and it looks pretty scary.
    Last edited by shogun; 02-24-2017 at 07:16 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    210

    Default

    Are there two flaps? The reason I ask is that my car sat for so long that they must have been sticking. Then one day I after about 60 seconds I heard the thump and assumed it was some sort of heater flap. I do not have heat on passenger and posted about it. It was deemed that I may have a stuck solenoid but I still need to address it. Maybe I have a flapper problem.
    1952 MG TD
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,483

    Default

    Yeah mine was always a thump after a few seconds of gears whining and then silence. I pray the flapper is not broken. I have a driveshaft to put into my 7 so the flapper will have to wait

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,225

    Default

    On my E32 750 from 10/88 parts car I removed all parts and studied that. On left side of the IHKA unit there is a stepper motor, and that is connected with both flaps, left and right side with a bowden cable.
    You can access that the same way as you want to get to the blower fan motor.
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/ihka/ihka.html

  5. #5
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    Jan 2007
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    Dayton Ohio
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    Default

    I am going to try to make the repair this weekend. I am hoping I can make the repair without having to pull the dash. It will be very cold this weekend and even with a semi heated garage you can still have problems with plastic parts. I may have to wait for warmer days. Tomorrow I am hoping to get the driveshaft installed in the 7. Does anyone know why BMW put a two part driveshaft with a center bearing in these cars? There's not a lot of travel in the rear end.

    Oh something I forgot to ask??? Is there a fuse on these stepper motors? One for each motor?
    Last edited by shogun; 02-24-2017 at 07:17 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
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    Default

    On the E32 I am hundred percent sure, no need to remove the dash, just then glovebox, the center console, the metal arm behind that from chassis to center console, the radio and the OBC, and it helps to remove the front seats and the steering wheel, so you have more space to manouver. But not a absolutel must do.
    On E34 I am not sure, but should probably the same.
    Stepper motors do not have a separate fuse, all controlled by the IHKA unit.
    Make pics, Joe, and a nice short instruction how to do.
    And good Luck

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Dayton Ohio
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    Default Dash is off

    Got the dash off in about 1 hour. Man what a job, it will probably take me more than a day to get it all back together. Looks like I will be able to repair the flaps without removing the IKHA but I need to know if I can get the parts. I have attached a picture of both flaps.

    The metal flap "above" has plastic button which is lying next to the flap, broken in two pieces. The rest of the broken button can be seen through the floor vent, it is an arm. So I will need to get the arm. Wonder if it is available?

    The plastic flap "above" can be JB Welded back into place which I will do tonight Any suggestions before I proceed?????


    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    On the E32 I am hundred percent sure, no need to remove the dash, just then glovebox, the center console, the metal arm behind that from chassis to center console, the radio and the OBC, and it helps to remove the front seats and the steering wheel, so you have more space to manouver. But not a absolutel must do.
    On E34 I am not sure, but should probably the same.
    Stepper motors do not have a separate fuse, all controlled by the IHKA unit.
    Make pics, Joe, and a nice short instruction how to do.
    And good Luck

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,483

    Default Plastic flap glued in place

    Cleaned the shaft where the plastic flap broke off. Then spread some JB Weld along the broken edge of the flap, tried to make it a thin line just on the edge and the thickness of the plastic flap. Stayed away from the edge about 1/4" (see photo). Then I pushed the other flap closed in the other vent, this makes it easier to position the flap into place and gives it support on three of the four edges with the forth edge being the broken edge. Carefully place the broken flap into place making sure not to get glue anywhere except the break. Once the flap was in place I then smeared JBWeld along the broken seam. with a popsicle stick. Making sure not to get it too thick so it doesn't get on any other parts. That was about 2 hours ago, just went out to test it and it worked. Once it sets up over night I will apply JBWeld to the other side. I also spread JBWeld on the other flap, It has a couple of hair line cracks on it too. This is a tight area and my head was against the windshield and had to fight to get one eye into position to see down the hole Isn't the prettiest job with glue I have seen but if it works who cares


    Quote Originally Posted by Kibokojoe View Post
    Got the dash off in about 1 hour. Man what a job, it will probably take me more than a day to get it all back together. Looks like I will be able to repair the flaps without removing the IKHA but I need to know if I can get the parts. I have attached a picture of both flaps.

    The metal flap "above" has plastic button which is lying next to the flap, broken in two pieces. The rest of the broken button can be seen through the floor vent, it is an arm. So I will need to get the arm. Wonder if it is available?

    The plastic flap "above" can be JB Welded back into place which I will do tonight Any suggestions before I proceed?????

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    milwaukee,wi
    Posts
    17

    Default

    i have a question.. my heat gets generally warm but for some reason the vents in between the seats blowing towards the rear blow cold air. for now i just close them but im wondering why that might be. its not like warm air either its really cold air like its from outside

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Derbyshire, UK
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    872

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    Quote Originally Posted by adrian.j View Post
    i have a question.. my heat gets generally warm but for some reason the vents in between the seats blowing towards the rear blow cold air. for now i just close them but im wondering why that might be. its not like warm air either its really cold air like its from outside
    They're designed to do that.

    1997 535i V8
    5spd, OBC, A/C, cruise, BMW phone, factory M-Tech wheel & suspension, 18" Alpinas

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