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Thread: Cold air on passenger side

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
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    Default These are the exterior air vents

    Yes there is a motor on the drivers side (USA) and a cable that actuates the fresh air vent on the passenger side but this is fresh air vents that are on the firewall. The vents that I am talking about are in the interior of the car. Looking at all of the pictures it appears that if the dash is removed you should be able to remove the top of the IHKA without removing it. But then again I may be talking about the duct work on top of the IHKA. I think if the duct work is removed I should be able to get a closer look at the flap and perhaps repair it. What do I have to loose I still have to remove the dash anyway Now its off to find instruction on dash removal.

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    was quite long time ago, no sharp memory.
    the drive side flap has a motor, and the passenger side flap is actuated from the drover side motor with a bowden cable. And that is accessible from the engine room.
    And that I found on a 10/1988 E32 750iL, maybe it is different on other production years.
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/cent...bulkhead_1.jpg


    once more go thru all the pics here
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/cent...ts_v1.1-1.html

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
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    9,249

    Default

    dashboard removal
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dash...al_v1.1-1.html
    before you start, read the last info!!!!!

    Update - The easy way: I had this idea I did way to much work the last time when I removed the dash cover. As I have no other hobbies I removed the dashboard cover again. This time the upper part was off in some 20 minutes. I removed all the connectors under the driverside glovebox, the steering wheel, the instrument cluster, the IHKA wiring loom, the park ventilation wiring to the IHKA control panel and the speaker wiring to the speakers behind the kick panels. Then I took off the entire center cover (with two people) with the wiringloom, OBC, speakers, air channels, radio and everything still in it. You will have to free the wiring loom to the hazardwarning lights and the auto transmission. http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dash...dash_cover.jpg

  3. #23
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    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
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    Default

    How did you ever know which connectors to remove? You must really know your stuff. Is your vehicle a european car? (right side driver)

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
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    Default

    I did not write that, that is written by Johan, see the link above.

    My car is a European car (left side driver), same as Johan's car, who lives in the Netherlands. Steering wheel on left side.
    European cars are in general left hand drive, except some countries like the U.K. which is RHD

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    2,062

    Default

    I have a somewhat related question. I am finding some green residue on the ground under where the Air Conditioning Condensation drains out thru the two hoses.. I initially feared it was Green Anti freeze leaking into the air box from faulty heater core o-rings then I realized my Windshield Washer Fluid is also Green but the dripping is not really where the washer Reservoir is located. I then realized it is perhaps just washer fluid from the excessive use due to many insect suicides on my windshield which has been sucked into the air intake at the base of the windshield and is mixing in the air box with condensation and draining out . The residue is not smelling like antifreeze and is not really oily like that.. am I correct that this is probably washer fluid that has splashed up and been sucked into the Air box?

    Heck,while I'm asking... With all settings on the manual climate control set to full cold, center wheel all the way down, two dials all the way to the left(blue) and the AC button the Manual says to keep the bottom(foot well) slider slightly open for the temp sensor but I then get Hot Air to my feet which is very uncomfortable in the summer when I want the AC. is this a stepper motor /Mixing Flap issue or it the Heater valves faulty? When I turn the center vent wheel the temp will change but I thought when the wheel was all the way to cold the water valves were shutting completely and should't allow any heated coolant into the Heater Core at all which must be happening if I feel heat to my feet even with all setting to cold....
    1995 540i Manual build 1/95

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast, Australia
    Posts
    178

    Default

    I cant help with the air questions but shogun puts in a 100,000,000,000% effort into helping this forum! Such a great help.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
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    Default

    @Jehu
    this question I have to pass on to others, I only know the IHKA, but not the manual version.
    What might help is the site of Gunnar in Germany
    he has made a lot of instructions and also shows the different systems, he also modified to IHKA and shows the differences.
    Go thru all these pages, lots of pics
    IHKR >IHKA conversion
    72 pages, big file!
    http://www.gunnar525.de/screwings/ihkr-ihka_umbau.pdf
    FAQ aircon
    http://www.gunnar525.de/screwings/klima_faq.pdf
    AUC retrofit
    http://www.gunnar525.de/screwings/auc_einbau.pdf
    parked ventilation retrofit
    http://www.gunnar525.de/screwings/stdlft_einbau.pdf

  8. #28
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    May 2006
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    NH
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    Default

    Ok.thanks for the info...
    Last edited by shogun; 11-09-2022 at 01:15 AM.
    1995 540i Manual build 1/95

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,483

    Default Dash is off

    Got the dash off in about 1 hour. Man what a job, it will probably take me more than a day to get it all back together. Looks like I will be able to repair the flaps without removing the IKHA but I need to know if I can get the parts. I have attached a picture of both flaps.

    The metal flap "above" has plastic button which is lying next to the flap, broken in two pieces. The rest of the broken button can be seen through the floor vent, it is an arm. So I will need to get the arm. Wonder if it is available?

    The plastic flap "above" can be JB Welded back into place which I will do tonight Any suggestions before I proceed?????


    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    On the E32 I am hundred percent sure, no need to remove the dash, just then glovebox, the center console, the metal arm behind that from chassis to center console, the radio and the OBC, and it helps to remove the front seats and the steering wheel, so you have more space to manouver. But not a absolutel must do.
    On E34 I am not sure, but should probably the same.
    Stepper motors do not have a separate fuse, all controlled by the IHKA unit.
    Make pics, Joe, and a nice short instruction how to do.
    And good Luck

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
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    Default

    I am afraid there are no single parts available from the dealer.
    Only the housing center item # 3 complete
    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3..._conditioning/
    Part number: 64 11 1 374 325 $ 236.50

    options: get the upper part from a used one
    or
    make a aluminium bracket or from plastic, where you have the possibilities.

    As a used one will probably also be brittle, I would try to make the brackets DIY.

    Make as many pics as possible, and send them to me, to the link on my website, to Hairywithit, he will include that on the site. Will be good for future help.
    And a short write up would also be good.
    And when you have the parts made, new busines for you ;-)
    many people will need them.

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