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Thread: Still sputter sputin 1991 e32 735i with strange idle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
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    Default Still sputter sputin 1991 e32 735i with strange idle

    Still having problems with this 1991 e32 735i. It is idling up and down.
    I have tested:
    New O2 sensor
    Full charge on battery
    Spark plugs
    rotor and rotor cap
    vacuum leak
    throttle body
    Smoked intake no leaks
    afm
    fuel pressure
    Clamp off evap system

    I have attached a link to the video.
    http://vid273.photobucket.com/albums...nny%20idle.mp4

  2. #2
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    May 2004
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    Default

    leads / ignition wires?

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Japan
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    Default

    I copied your thead from the 7 forum into the 5 forum, same engine and more people read here in the 5 forum.

    That really sounds strange. Have you checked the fuel pump? Maybe it is going to die? At least you can check the volume like this http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/fu...Regulators.htm
    Nominal data:
    The M30 fuel pump is originally Bosch 0 580 464 995
    operating pressure is 3 bar
    conveying capcity at 12 V 1.9 liter/minute
    conveying capacity against counterpressure 875 ccm/30 seconds
    Power consumption is 5A
    Last edited by shogun; 12-29-2016 at 06:50 PM.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Checked pressure and leak down but not volume

  5. #5
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    Ohm'd wires they are good

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Japan
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    download this, 7.3 MB, 228 pages, includes data for the M30 engine for testing http://www.e34.hu/service/kendtamas/XHAYNES.pdf
    chapter 4, Idle air stabiliser valve - check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . 21
    copied:
    Motronic systems
    Check
    Note: There are two types of idle air stabiliser valve on these systems; early models usually have a two-wire valve, while later models are equipped with a three-wire valve.
    20 With the engine running, disconnect the electrical connector from the valve. The idle speed should increase to about 2000 rpm.
    21 If the idle speed does not increase:
    a) Two-wire valve - Using a pair of jumper wires, apply battery voltage to the valve, and confirm that the valve closes tightly. When the voltage is removed, the valve should re-open. Also, check the resistance of the valve (see illustration
    21.9). The resistance should be about 9 or 10 ohms.
    b) Three-wire valve - Turn the engine off and unplug the electrical connector from the valve. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance on the two outer terminals of the valve. (see illustration). It should be about 40 ohms. Check the resistance on
    the centre and outside terminals of the valve. They should both be about 20 ohms.
    22 If the idle air stabiliser valve fails any of the tests, renew it.
    23 If the idle air stabiliser valve tests are all correct, check the control current (two-wire valve) or the voltage (three-wire valve) as follows.
    24 On two-wire valves, connect an ammeter (0 to 1000 mA range) as described in paragraph 13. Start the engine, and allow it to idle. With the engine running, the current reading should be between 400 and 500 mA. Adjust the valve if the current reading is not as specified. Note: The idle air stabiliser current will fluctuate between 400 and 1100 mA if the engine is too cold, if the coolant temperature sensor is faulty, if there is an engine vacuum leak, or if electrical accessories are on.
    25 If there is no current reading, have the idle speed control unit (under the facia) checked by a BMW dealer or other specialist.
    26 On three-wire valves, check for voltage at the electrical connector. With the ignition on, there should be battery voltage present at the centre terminal (see illustration). There should be about 10 volts between the centre terminal and each of the outer terminals.
    27 If there is no voltage reading, have the idle speed control unit (early models) or the ECU (later models) checked by a dealer service department or other specialist.
    Adjustment (early models only)
    28 With the ignition switched off, connect a tachometer in accordance with the equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
    29 Make sure the ignition timing is correct (see Chapter 5).
    30 Connect an ammeter to the valve as described in paragraph 13.
    31 With the engine running, the current draw should be 450 to 470 mA at 700 to 750 rpm.
    32 If the control current is not correct, turn the adjusting screw until it is within the specified range. Note: Turn the idle air bypass screw clockwise to increase the current, or anti-clockwise to decrease the current.
    -------------------
    Not sure if that is applicable to your engine, just for info

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Location
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    Default

    Check and clean the ICV - disconnect it to see if that is the culprit first.
    https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/icv_ccv

    Sounds like it is opening and closing trying to maintain an idle. I never heard anything run like that on a car. Lawnmowers and stuff that do that are due to a lean condition.

    Couldn't find anything besides this where the car is running when they adjust the AFM:


    https://youtu.be/MTnB5X4lURk
    Last edited by 632 Regal; 12-31-2016 at 07:30 PM.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

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