Touring Suspesion Kits

[fran9r]

I have a 1992 525i touring, and the rear suspension seems to be really hard. Really really hard.

I'm not too fussed about that, but to improve the handling I would like to fit a suspension kit. Quite happy to delete the self leveling gubbins these cars come with.

What are my best options? I don't have the funds for a top level kit, but do want to improve handling.

[fran9r]

Can a saloon kit like this be fitted: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sport-Susp...item54203e9b23

Even if I need one with the rear springs beefed up perhaps?

[shogun]

Check the front, they mention in the offer "........the kit fits only for orginal suspension kit with m14 d16 front shocks !"
Otherwise you might also need front suspension shock mounts, and LAD have different shock mounts also compared to normal ones.

If you want them cheap, check for Kayaba, KYB , this shop is specialized on shocks and springs http://stores.ebay.com/jdmwerks13?_t...p2047675.l2563

If you want to eliminate LAD shocks, you have to make a modification to the hydraulic system, you cannot just block the feed line to the shocks from the power steering pump, you need a return u-pipe to feed back the fluid to the Pentosin container, otherwise the power steering pump will break. I have posted some pics here. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...AD+elimination

[fran9r]

Hi and thanks for the info.

Yep understand that cheap set was a specific fitment.

I'm presuming the hard ride is a result of a failure of the LAD shocks, so would prefer to replace. Just wondering if the saloon kits would fit -presume they say touring only as a result of the adjustable suspension? Maybe the extra weight of the touring too.

How does your car handle with your suspension kit?

Thanks for the link, will take a look.

[shogun]

I have LAD and I keep it because it is simple and very comfortable. Purpose of the System
The primary function of Level Control Systems is to maintain the height of the vehicle as closely as possible to a predetermined level under all load conditions. This constant level allows the suspension system to maintain the alignment geometry. Camber and Toe in are minimally affected when the ride height is consistent. In addition, the headlight range stays consistent throughout the various operating conditions. The Level Control System is designed to operate in the event of static changes such as
when passengers are entering or exiting the vehicle or quasi-static such as s when the fuel tank is emptying while driving. The Level Control System come in various configurations such as hydraulic (hydropneumatic) or pneumatic only systems.
Hydropneumatic systems use high pressure hydraulic fluid which is dampened by a gas cushion from a nitrogen charged accumulator. These system use and electro-hydraulic pump or an engine driven piston pump. http://www.e38.org/selflevel.pdf
lastabhaengige Daempfung.Which means: Load-dependent Dampening
http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/suspension/02LAD.JPG
Engine off, load heavy stuff into the trunk that the rear goes down. Start engine, rear should go up to normal level.
Elimination is done by people to save money for expensive new LAD shocks, or where the LAD lines leak. I would NEVER eliminate LAD.

Testing the rear LAD bombs, checking ride height, adjusting ride height, all explained here http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...5iL-lad-system

If the rear is hard, then you rear bombs are shot, because these are the actual shock absorbers. The bladder inside is gas filled. You can test your bombs by removing the connecting hose and stick a screwdriver in, if it goes in, bombs are dead and filled with Pentosin. On my website if have pics and a video showing the function of the bombs. See under funstuff >>BMW undressed http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html

[fran9r]

OK so the only price I can find for a pair of rear shocks is around £1000.

So a set of aftermarket suspension kit becons then!

Can anyone tell me if a saloon kit will fit? If not, does anyone make a good priced touring kit? Any other parts I will need?

Would like to get it handling well before I get some more speed from the engine.

[shogun]

I repeat, if the sus on the rear is hard, and no shock is leaking, you do not need new shocks, you only needs 2 bombs. P/N: 37211132043, usually the cost around $140.

Meyle also makes them: Meyle 37211132043 - Suspension Self-Leveling Unit Accumulator, Cross References: Meyle:37211132043MY, Febi also: W0133-1606445

I cannot comment on other shocks for the E34 Touring, as I do not own one.

[fran9r]

Sorry I'm obviously being thick.

Great, will check my shocks out then, and see if I can get a cheap supply in the UK of the bombs.

[shogun]

Search Ebay U.K. with : bmw 37211132043
Plenty new ones on offer, per piece around GBP 80

How to change http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/LA...cumulators.htm
the question is how corroded the old connections are, you might also need the short hose connections with the metal tube as shown, unfortunately pretty expensive, see www.realoem.com
or find a shop which crimps new hydraulic hoses onto the pipe bends. You need HIGH pressure hydraulic hoses, there is a max pressure of about 140 bar! My original ones are laid out for 180 bar.

[fran9r]

Great, thanks for the help. I'm a little concerned it didn't sure the author's ride quality, but appreciate it should have. Wonder what else they needed to change?

Definately think it would be best to change mine, maybe another job for the winter. The car can come off the road for a while.