I'd have a look at solenoid 1 and shift valve 1. If they were not working or sticking, you wouldn't get first gear. So I think that's the first place to start. Do the engine revs increase or does it just go in with a bump?
I'd have a look at solenoid 1 and shift valve 1. If they were not working or sticking, you wouldn't get first gear. So I think that's the first place to start. Do the engine revs increase or does it just go in with a bump?
Oct '00 E46 330i. Feb '92 525i (departed)
When I got the EAT chip my 5HP18 would rev neutral between shifting 2nd and 3rd. Would slam so hard the Trans would have blown if I didn't swap it right out. This was on mild acceleration only, full throttle shift was fine.
The stock engine chips cut the engine momentarily between shifts so they are smooth. Doubt it is your problem but throwing it out here anyways.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
@Regal:
I think your 2-3 shift problem had more to do with slammed teeth on the F drum and a bad F drum glide bearing. Because:
- From 2-3 the G clutch disengages
- From 2-3 the F clutch engages
The friction plates IN the G drum that lock into the F drum will, over time, slam the teeth on the F drum meaning it will take a little longer before F engages / disengages
The bad F drum glide bearing inside the F drum will cause the F piston to move in and out at a slower rate
This is a typical early 5HP18 fault. You will not nessecarily notice slippage or jerks as the engine indeed stops revving during shift moments. However, when the engine does rev, it will put torque on the G friction plates who will put that torque on the damaged F drum. The result is some slippage since those plates do not instantly grab-hold or release. I have opened up multiple "18" boxes and all show slammed teeth on drum F from plates belonging to drum G.
Edit:
I do not exactly know what that correction kit does but I guess it modifies the fluid pressure to G and F. Have never had to use that kit though.
@whiskeychaser:
No kind of rev changes, no kind of slippage. It is an instant 2-1 downshift but with a bump. I will check all the shift valves. Thanks for the tip. Solenoids are 100%. Ohm resistance checks out and no gunk in the solenoids or the small pit behind them.
I have now:
- Overhauled the valve body I pulled from my car last week (the one originally mounted in 1993)
- Swapped the 2-1 jerk body with this valve body
- Refilled tranny.
Result: no jerk, good shifting.
I also replaced many springs in the valve body that I mounted last week (the one with the 2-1 jerk). Shift valves, 12345 springs and all kinds of other small springs. Although I have checked every part number and location 100x, I may have done something wrong. I will open up the valve body and see if all has been mounted as it should have been. I DO have to note that replacing those springs gave me:
- A bit more responsiveness to my throttle management from the transmission
- Slightly quicker shifts: rrrrRRRRR - rrrrrrrrr instead of rrrrrRRRRRR - - rrrrrrrrrrr
- All round slightly better feel when upshifting.
I guess that new springs ensure that all the pistons will almost instantly go back to their position when fluid pressure is lost. Since the springs in the valve body mounted today are original 1993.. they probably lost some of their force meaning the valve body functions a few %'s less effective.
In any case, I will look over the entire piston / spring layout again. Also important to check is if I have put all the metal clips correctly on the various pistons (although I am sure I have).
For those of you who would like to know what I have done with the valve body I mounted today, check my YouTube DIY:
Part 1:
I added a reference to whiskeychaser and shogun for the info on the pressure regulator.
To be continued. Thanks for the help.
Last edited by Frank87; 02-28-2015 at 03:44 PM.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Update:
Started clean with a completely overhauled transmission.
When using a valve body in which I only worked on the main channel plate (cleaning + replacement of balls and orifices) the transmission shifts like new except for the 1->2 shift.
When using a valve body in which I worked on the main channel plate AND where I have also replaced ALL springs with OEM ZF new ones, the transmission shifts like new except my 2->1 downshift gives me a slight jerk as described in this topic.
This means I am dealing with a valve body related issue. The valve body I talked about previously in this topic is a different valve body. I have 3 valve bodies:
1: Valve body of which the main channel plate has been done, gives me a not-so-smooth 1->2 shift, solenoids show proper ohm resistance
2: Valve body of which the main channel plate and most springs have been done, gives me a 2->1 jerk, solenoids show proper ohm resistance
3: Valve body of which the main channel plate and ALL springs have been done, gives me a 2->1 jerk, solenoids show proper ohm resistance
Valve body 2 and 3 are definately the better valve bodies for all other shift points when compared to valve body 1.
The 2>1 does NOT jerk if:
- The car is in S mode
- The car upshifts to 2 gear but never goes higher than 2. So 1->2 and then 2->1.
Which means the jerk is there if:
- The car is in D mode and has shifted to 3 or higher
The jerk is more apparant the more braking power you apply. An emergency stop from 50 to 0 gives a clearly noticeable jerk. Rolling the car from 30 to 0 gives a less noticeable jerk (but still there)
This 2->1 thing is the final piece of the puzzle!
Last edited by Frank87; 10-17-2015 at 03:59 PM.
Did you try disconnecting the brake light switch yet? Could be some issue with the check control unit that enables engine braking while slowing down however it shouldn't have anything to do with the 1-2 upshift.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
It must be valve body related. Old sloppy valve body gives me a good 2-1 downshift. Completely overhauled valve body gives me a bad 2-1 downshift.