'95 525iT, no crank, no start, no power windows, sunroof or doorlocks,

[duckloads]

Well, My new electronic starter immobilizer module came in today, and still NO START, no windows, no sunroof, just as before.(starter relay mounted behind the LH kick panel speaker)

I have Power to the starter switch
Power to the above relay, but no power out of the relay.

Something that supposed to send a signal to the relay isn't. Or something has the car shut down.

[632 Regal]

Did the immobilizer get programmed to the car keys? (I have no idea if this pertains) reading back it might not.

Still have to isolate that wire and cut it unless you can figure what is wrong. For me the thought of someone trying to steal the car was a non issue, for you it might be.

95...

Okay man, pull the rear seat and have a go at those fuses. I found some real stupid stuff going on and the rear fuses were the culprit. According to the schematics they had nothing to do with the problem but BAM! replaced a dead fuse and good to go. Another major issue could be the wires in the hinge area, both of my E34 and the E31 had major wire shorting issues back there. Of course they have nothing to do with anything but if bad will cause all types of electrical gremlins.

What area you at?

[duckloads]

About two weeks ago, when all this starter, I thought the battery was dead. I removed the rear seat and heard a clicking noise in the relay module. I traced this to the tailgate window's micro switch stuck in the closed position. I replaced the micro switch, and the only broken wires were for the window defroster.

Both fuse links are good, and I have power across all fuses under the back seat. I swapped out relays for the General Module. still nothing. I have all the appropriate power at the ignition switch.

It turns out the relay I replaced was only a starter immobilizer relay. My car was mfg'd in 06/94. Somehow that makes it an early production 1995 model. It DOES NOT have the immobilizer-anti theft system requiring a coded key. No microchips in my keys.

I just ordered a used general module from Bavarian Auto Recycling. I hope for the best when it arrives.

[Bill R.]

temporarily jumper across your fusible links even though you say they are good, sometimes they have a hairline crack thats shows continuity until you put a load on it.

[duckloads]

Thanks for the idea. I've had the 80amp fuse link in my hand and it looked fine. I jumped across it anyway per suggestion, but still no change.

[shogun]

What about the second fusible link, did you jumper that too?

On 09-12-2014 you mentioned on RF: duckloads

I think I found the center of the electrical universe as for as the gremlins I'm having are concerned. I have NO power at the starter terminal 50 with key in start position. I check power at the ignition switch. Got battery voltage at big red wire. I even have battery voltage at the black/yellow wire with key in start position. That black/yellow wire changes to black/green at big connector under dash and continues to the electric immobilizer control module (starter relay) located behind the LH kick panel speaker.
The wiring diagrams show the output of the starter relay to starter terminal 50 to be black/yellow. I HAVE NO power at the output of the relay. I removed the relay and jumped between the two wires at the relay connector. FIRE IN THE HOLE!!!!
Now to order a new relay and hope all else is well in my (car's) electrical universe.

[duckloads]

I visually checked it and also had battery voltage on both sides of the second fuse link. Nope I didn't jumper across it.

[632 Regal]

I would jump it anyway, might be good with no load but not connecting with a load.

[duckloads]

d.loads here again.

latest update.......I blew another $10 and replaced the 80 amp fuse link. No change, but then I knew the original one was OK.

I checked power in and out of the General Module relay that lives between the GM and the windshield wiper relay.

I have 12V (battery voltage) at both the power (large wire) and winding (sm wire) input. I also have 12v at the winding output. BUT There is NO voltage at the power output to the General Module.

The relay is good, I swapped a couple around. Its a generic brownish colored relay. They all work.

BUT I still DO NOT have 12V from the relay to the GM...

Any ideas?

[nk530]

I'm not sure what all goes into the immobilizer signal. The module should be looking at a bunch of different switches and sensors and such. That is why Regal and I have opted to simply find the wire coming from the ant-theft module and cut it rather than try and track down the source of the problem.