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Thread: Auxiliary Fan Switch Pin Layout

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Auxiliary Fan Switch Pin Layout

    Some info on this:
    The aux fan plug goes onto the radiator right side at the temperature feeler on my E32 750.
    Wire colours and how to jumper for testing
    BMW E34 Aux Fan Resistor
    page_2
    plug shows this inside 0, T1, T2 http://bangkokdigitalimaging.com/photos/s.jpg
    term 0 is the brown wire(ground), term T1 is the violet/grey(low speed, closes @90*c), term T2 is the black/grey/yellow(high speed, closes @ 99*c)


    Wires jumpered............Test conditions................. Test Results
    Violet/grey+brown.......Ignition ON.................. Fan runs on low speed
    Black/grey/yellow OR...Ignition ON...................Fan runs on high speed
    Black/grey + brown

    If the fan does not run when powered directly, check for battery voltage at the switch connector with the ignition on. If battery voltage is not present, check fuse #29 (low speed) and fuse #25 (high speed). If no faults are found, remove the relays and turn the ignition on. Check for power at terminal 30 an terminal 86 of the relay block with the ignition ON.


    aux fan connector: see also here page 409 and 410 of 555, that is the diagram for the aux fan, also the wire colors are shown
    http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/e34_94.pdf

    When the aux fan is seized, the magnets inside the motor are lose, one can open the motor and reglue the magnets.



    Part number: 61131378410, old part number is 61 13 0 492 947. DIFFERENCE between old and new is:
    old ones were for angled pins, the new one is for straight pins. The angled pins do not fit into the new plug. Unless you can bend them straight.
    So besides the plug you also need new straight pins with cables and resolder them. I did the same. You anyway need new pins and cable.
    Circular connector / D 2, 5 mm System
    Round receptacle 2.5, watertight, there you can decide between:
    61 13 0 007 441 0,5-1,0 MM
    I used 61 13 0 007 442 1,0-2,5 MM

    Same plug fits in the heater valves.

    ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

    Also check the 2 relays for low and high, last year I found on one E34 the aux fan not running, simple cause was that the spades of the relays were oxidized and had no good contact in the fuse box. Cleaned them with a copper brush and then added good electric contact spray.
    BMW Sensors Problems and Faults


    Stabilant 22A Electrical Contact Enhancer

    Model: All BMW
    Complaint:
    Connectors which carry low current are more likely to form deposits which affect the resistance of the circuit through the plug connector. Depending upon the particular circuit these deposits can cause malfunctions and consequently activate warning lamps and check control indicators.
    Remedy:
    Part replacement can temporarily stop the problem.
    If the connector is the problem then without disconnecting the connector measure the resistance of the circuit running through the connector to make sure the connector has a high resistance. A good resistor will have close to 0 ohms resistance.
    Visually examine the male and female terminals in the connector housing by removing them. Look at the integrity of the wire crimps, and in some male terminals the integrity of the weld of the male pin to the terminal. Then reinstall.
    With a zero residue electrical contact cleaner liberally spray the male and female connectors, and allow the air to dry.
    Apply Stabilant 22A to both male and female terminals so they are saturated, and reconnect the connectors while they are still wet. When the Stabilant 22A dries it will leave a thin coating of polymer film which is conductive between mating surfaces, and is non-conductive between adjacent pins. It can also prevent the formation of more harmful deposits.


    Model: All BMW
    Complaint:
    When connecting or disconnecting 2 or 3 pin plug connectors it is possible for the rectangular seal to fall out of the plug housing unnoticed. The seal prevents moisture from seeping into the plug as well as ensuring that the two halves of the plug are properly tensioned so that the contacts do not move within the plug. If this movement occurs the contacts can develop corrosion. Corroded or loose contacts could cause problems with the proper functioning of the vehicle, as well as causing difficulty in diagnosis due to the possibly intermittent nature of such problems.
    Remedy:
    Ensure that when working with 2 or 3 pin plug connectors the seal is in place before the plug connector is connected. If it is missing then it must be replaced.
    Last edited by shogun; 08-06-2013 at 08:44 PM.

  2. #2
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    Dec 2004
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    ... Part number: 61131378410, old part number is 61 13 0 492 947. DIFFERENCE between old and new is:
    old ones were for angled pins, the new one is for straight pins. The angled pins do not fit into the new plug. Unless you can bend them straight.
    So besides the plug you also need new straight pins with cables and resolder them. I did the same. You anyway need new pins and cable.
    Nice documentation for this common repair!

    I hit the same trouble fixing a 1988 E30 325i (M20), had to use new connectors after bending straight didn't work reliably. Not good on a critical system.

    As Shogun says, it is definitely worth getting the new version of the connector and pins:

    Circular connector / D 2, 5 mm System Round receptacle 2.5, watertight

    You can decide between:
    61 13 0 007 441 0,5-1,0 MM, I used 61 13 0 007 442 1,0-2,5 MM


    Thanks for sharing!

    Join the Aussie
    540i LE yahoo forum

    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Old thread revival.
    I hope I can reglue the magnets in the auxiliary fan and replace the connector and get the job of returning the auxiliary fan to service done affordably.

    1990 535im 421,000 miles, 1987 325is, 1989 325is, 1990 m3, 1991 318is, 2001 X5 3.0

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    4,150

    Default

    Unrelated e46 info.... I was in the drive through yesterday picking up some lunch in my e46 wagon sitting there idling with the a/c on and i hear this really loud pop... I look at the temperature and its right in the middle and about that time i hear the auxillary fan spooling up to its full speed. I'm thinking the expansion tank blew and i get out and walk around the car, no coolant on the ground and its acting normal except for the auxillary fan spinning away. I continue on and go home, shut the car off and the auxillary fan keeps on spinning. I'm thinking i blew the relay but the e46's don't use a relay the dme controls the fan direct, I pull the power plug and that night i pull the bumper and remove the auxillary fan assy. The speed control is a box mounted to the fan on the e46, the black plastic cover on the speed control is moved back a couple of inches. I pull the cover off and the circuit board is blown out of the housing.... nice that it at least failed in the full speed mode.


  5. #5
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    Dec 2004
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R. View Post
    Unrelated e46 info.... I was in the drive through yesterday picking up some lunch in my e46 wagon sitting there idling with the a/c on and i hear this really loud pop... ... ...I pull the cover off and the circuit board is blown out of the housing.... nice that it at least failed in the full speed mode.
    Hilarious read, thanks Bill.

    Perhaps the old ones are just nowhere near as fun as the new ones in real life! LOL!

    Join the Aussie
    540i LE yahoo forum

    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

  6. #6
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    The aux fan also serves as a backup for the cooling system, when the temperature reaches 196F (91C) degrees the aux fan will spin in low speed, when the temperature reaches 210F (99C) the aux fan should spin in high speed mode. The aux fan located right in front of the condensor. You can visually see if it's running by taking a look at your kidney grill, it's right behind it.
    If it isn't running, open the hood and remove the cover behind the right headlight (on some E34). There's a temperature switch located on the right top side of the radiator.
    Pull out the connector. The following information is from the Bentley E34 manual page 170-4:
    If the runs only when powered directly by the jumpered connector amd hot coolant is circulating through the radiator, the radiator switch is faulty. Use a new gasket ring (or crush ring) when replacing the switch.

    Wires jumpered............ Test conditions...........Test Results

    Violet/grey and brown........Ignition ON.....Fan runs on low speed
    Black/grey/yellow OR.........Ignition ON.....Fan runs on high speed
    Black/grey and brown

    If the fan does not run when powered directly, check for battery voltage at the switch connector with the ignition on. If battery voltage is not present, check fuse #29 (low speed) and fuse #25 (high speed). If no faults are found, remove the relays and turn the ignition on. Check for power at terminal 30 an terminal 86 of the relay block with the ignition ON. Fix any wiring faults found.

    If the fan operates only on high speed and no electrical faults have been found up to this point, use an ohmmeter to check that the fan resistor is not electrically open.

    How to disassemble the aux fan motor and reglue the magnets with pics from the German 7 forum http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthr...?t=74182&page=

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