see notes from Rustam
BMW E34 Website
I want to replace my upper thrust/control arms on my frotn suspension. I am not sure what type of tie-rod puller I need for the job. I am not doing the lower control arms at this time. I do not want to destroy the rubber tie-rod seal as I am just going to replace the old 750i bushings with M5 bushings. Bit worn after 100,000 miles.
Thanks,
1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment
If you got 100k miles on your thrust arm, you best change that too. The job is easier with new thrust arm... bcause you got the thrust arm ready to install... you don't have to stop and go get them pressed out and in.
Scissor type is what you want... to save the rubber ball joint cover.
Thanks, Hopeing to savemoney by just doing the bushings.
Thanks,
1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment
at 100K... the ball joint of the thrust arm is also shot... will give you clunking and vibration noises... not worth trying to save money on.
Most important thing I can think of for a noob to know pulling tie-rods and suspension arms,
i. don't take the nut right off, just loosen it so a few threads so the nut is still on the end by at least a few threads.
ii. Put pressure on the joint using the puller, but not don't actually pull the joint apart by winding the puller's nut or bolt: With a little pressure put on the joint, you just tap a strong piece of metal closest to the joint with a 4lb hammer and it will pop out.
iii. Undo the nut and remove.
I broke 2 pullers doing that on my first 5er, until someone showed me.
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08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!
Thanks, I just may replace the entire arm. I replace them with lemforders with 750i bushings about 100,000 ago and hate the thoufght of spending excess money. However, I may be trying to be too cheap.
Thanks,
1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment
Sure-
avoid 'pushing the bushing'...
far better to not beat around the bush...
how much effort mus one goto, to get some bush on your arm
and if 'The Force' is not with you it matters not...
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08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!
There's only one way that I'd go about removing an arm from your car--especially if you're trying to save the boots. More specifically, I'd remove the steering knuckle (and the tie rod from it using a non-destructive tie-rod puller) and do it off the car in a vice. Everything you need to do this is available for rental at autozone. Jon K had a post about this with the pics that outline what I'm trying to describe more clearly, but the pic is dead. You put the knuckle in a vice, put a chevy balljoint press over the joint you are trying to get out, and use another puller to pull the works apart. I can't imagine doing it another way without breaking tools and being a bigger PITA than it needs to be. Put the whole works in a vice, give a long-ish ratchet or wrench some average to moderate force and the joint pops out without much drama. All of the tools of appropriate quality are available at AZ; you give them close to 100$ to rent them and you get all of your money back if they get them back in working order.