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Thread: Idle Control Valve (ICV): Removal, Cleaning & Refitting.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

    Default Idle Control Valve (ICV): Removal, Cleaning & Refitting.

    Cleaning the I.C.V.

    As a relative 'newb', I was apprehensive about messing with the I.C.V so I tried to do some research on it. I couldn't find a write up on it so
    here it is. It's a peice of piss but hopefully it will help someone out at some point.

    (I actually took pictures when re-fitting as I only thought about writing it up then incase anything looks iffy! Also, the small rip in the big air
    hose was there beforehand... Doesn't cause an issue at the moment luckily).

    Benefits
    The idle on these cars can be lumpy and problematic, cleaning the ICV is a cheap and easy first step to try and remedy the problem.
    There is a valve inside that can become 'sticky' if it gets too dirty, hence causing a rough idle. The idea is to remove the dirt and free the
    mechanism.

    Tool Requirements
    Not much is needed in the way of tools, three simple items will do:
    1. Flat head screwdriver (to undo hoseclamp)
    2. Some Spray Carb cleaner (widely available)
    3. A Clean Rag

    Time and Difficulty
    This job is a 1 on a scale of 1-10 difficulty wise, it took a muppet like me five minutes.

    Locating the I.C.V
    First thing to do is know where the damn thing is... If you look at the picture there is a big rivetted hose and the I.C.V is the peice coming off
    this to the left.


    Removing the I.C.V
    To remove it the first thing you need to do is disconnect the electrical connector- it is secured with a thin peice of metal... Put the
    screwdriver underneath and prize it up but make sure you have hold of it with your other hand incase it pings off and you lose it!


    Once you have this off you can simply pull off the connector. I didn't disconnect the battery for this but if it makes you more comfortable
    then do it.

    Now you need to look at the best way to get the thing off. There are three problems... 1 - The rubber band type item securing it to the metal
    seat. 2 - the hose coming from below the I.C.V and 3 - The join between the I.C.V and the large air hose. I went for the join between the I.C.V
    and the large air hose first by pulling the I.C.V towards the firewall and slightly twisting as I done it. I managed to get it out that end...


    Then I undone the hoseclamp underneath and pulled that hose off downwards... This is hard to do, but prying with the screwdriver helps.
    Just be careful not to damage the hose as you do it.

    Once this is off you can actually remove the rubber band by getting the screwdriver between it and the metal peice it attaches to and prying
    it off. The I.C.V can then be removed.


    Cleaning the I.C.V
    Once the I.C.V is off it is easy to clean... Get the Carb cleaner (with the straw on the end if you have one and spray it into each hole... If its
    anything like mine you will be amazed at how much dirty liquid comes out! When you're happy dry it off with a rag.

    Re-fitting the I.C.V
    Re-fitting is of course the reverse of removal. I found it easiest to get the bottom hose on first and then plug the side into the big air pipe,
    then put the rubber band on. To get the rubber band on it is necessary to hook the side furthest away from you in first, then push your side in
    with the end of the screwdriver. This is hard to explain but when you are doing it you will see what I mean. Obviously reconnect the electrical
    connector and the clip and see if it makes any difference... Even if it doesn't its a good preventative measure!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mordan
    tx. a newbie who cleaned the ICV. now idle is better.
    still have to change the spark plugs
    Good stuff... Sparks are a piece of piss... Just take your time first time, do one at a time. If you need help, just holla.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mordan
    ordered the spark plugs from the dealer... dunno why.


    i need to buy a plug holder right to remove them? any will do? and a feeler gauge as well I guess.

    http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...nition%20Tools

    above should I buy Standard or Electronic Ignition?

    can't find plug holder on autohausaz lol
    I ordered mine from the dealer too, they reckon they're pre-gapped so no need to mess with them. Haven't had a problem with mine. You should have a tool to remove them in the boot lid tool kit... Its a big thick thing and a small pipe that goes through it to give you leverage to turn it and get them out/in. If you haven't got one I think there are two standad sizes, its the bigger one. (someone correct me if I'm wrong here.) If I remember tomorrow I'll have a look at the size in mm on mine to give you an indication of what tool to buy... Got a lot going on so I'll try not to forget.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    429

    Default

    tx. a newbie who cleaned the ICV. now idle is better.
    still have to change the spark plugs

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    429

    Default plugs

    ordered the spark plugs from the dealer... dunno why.


    i need to buy a plug holder right to remove them? any will do? and a feeler gauge as well I guess.

    http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...nition%20Tools

    above should I buy Standard or Electronic Ignition?

    can't find plug holder on autohausaz lol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    192

    Default

    Removing the I.C.V
    To remove it the first thing you need to do is disconnect the electrical connector- it is secured with a thin peice of metal... Put the
    screwdriver underneath and prize it up but make sure you have hold of it with your other hand incase it pings off and you lose it!



    You do not need screwdriver to disconnect the electrical connector, push down on the thin piece of metal and you will not have to worry about losing it. When you are ready to reconnect the connector, it will snap back in place. No need to use a screwdriver......
    M20 525/7 Bore: 84.50mm Stroke 81mm CR 8.5:1, blue printed/dyno & custom chip. Boost @ 6.5psi ~246hp @ 5300rpm / torque @ 269ftlbs. @ 4250rpm

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,249

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mordan
    ordered the spark plugs from the dealer... dunno why.


    i need to buy a plug holder right to remove them? any will do? and a feeler gauge as well I guess.

    http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...nition%20Tools

    above should I buy Standard or Electronic Ignition?

    can't find plug holder on autohausaz lol

    To make things easier for us to help you, please add your car details in the profile, built month/year, automatic transmission yes/no, etc.
    On my website is a VIN deocder which tells you the details.
    Also the engine type is important, because that also changed by built year.
    A 530 could be a V8 with M60B30 engine or a M30B30 straight six for example.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    Cheers Turbo, that I didn't know!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    192

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    Cheers Turbo, that I didn't know!
    Hey your welcome, it's silly things like that which are helpful. I can just picture the little metal thing be launched into never never find land by that screwdriver.
    M20 525/7 Bore: 84.50mm Stroke 81mm CR 8.5:1, blue printed/dyno & custom chip. Boost @ 6.5psi ~246hp @ 5300rpm / torque @ 269ftlbs. @ 4250rpm

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    429

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
    I ordered mine from the dealer too, they reckon they're pre-gapped so no need to mess with them. Haven't had a problem with mine. You should have a tool to remove them in the boot lid tool kit... Its a big thick thing and a small pipe that goes through it to give you leverage to turn it and get them out/in. If you haven't got one I think there are two standad sizes, its the bigger one. (someone correct me if I'm wrong here.) If I remember tomorrow I'll have a look at the size in mm on mine to give you an indication of what tool to buy... Got a lot going on so I'll try not to forget.
    thx for ur answer. just got my plugs from the dealer. I will try the tool from the boot lid. I have seen it there last time I checked

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