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Thread: 1991 e32 735i pan gasket replacement m30 engine

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Dayton Ohio
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    Default 1991 e32 735i pan gasket replacement m30 engine

    Place cardboard under engine

    Remove radiator fan and shroud

    Remove air cleaner

    Move coolant tank (don't remove coolant lines just pull tank to the side)
    remove overflow line
    pull electrical plug

    Remove metal channel under coolant tank

    Loosen electrical conduit that was under metal channel (wire bundle has a tendency to stick to the firewall)

    Remove vacuum line to master cylinder

    Brace hood with pole or stick

    Jack up car ( I used stands on sway bar bushing fittings)

    Drain oil

    Swing power steering pump bracket out of the way by removing the adjustment bolt and nut, leave hoses attached
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...brackets-1.jpg

    Remove air conditioner compressor bracket, leave hoses attached

    Disconnect oil sensor
    remove bolts on sensor from oil pan or disconnect connector on left side of pan/engine
    remove automatic transmission bracket on cooler lines (left front of engine)

    Disconnect exhaust pipe to transmission support

    Remove nuts on transmission rubber mounts

    Lift engine slightly to remove pressure on engine mounts. I used not only the lift but also raised the engine using the ac compressor mounting bracket.
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...enginelift.jpg
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...ckingpoint.jpg

    Remove engine mount nuts from the bottom side of car (33 ft - lb)

    Remove grounding strap

    Lift engine 2 to 3"

    Place wood blocks under engine mounts

    Remove oil pan bolts
    (22) 10mm bolts (6.5 - 8 ft - lb or 84 in-lb)
    (4) 7mm special bolts that draw pan toward bell housing (15 ft - lb or 180 in/lb)
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...orxbolts-1.jpg
    Remove oil pump drop into pan (two long bolts towards front of engine) There are three bolts and the nut on the gear

    Rotate crankshaft on #6 cylinder to clear rod journal (36 mm bolt)

    Remove oil pan

    Inspect and reinstall pump (16 ft - lb or 192 in/lb)

    Install sprocket with chain (align spine) 18 ft - lb or 216 in/lb)

    Use 3m Super weather-stripping and gasket adhesive to hold new gasket in place.
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...adhesive-1.jpg
    Mount the gasket before the adhesive sets. Move it around into position
    Takes about 15 minutes to dry

    I made a gasket protector from a plastic surgical pan to protect the leading edge of the gasket and oil pan.
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...tprotector.jpg
    Gasket protector held in place with zip strips
    Leave gasket protector in place until after the oil pump mounting.

    Check main bearings 42-45 ft/lb

    Check rod bearings 38-41 ft/lb

    Other thoughts

    Take care not to damage new gasket when sliding oil pan back into position.

    Engine lift on sale at Harbor Freight $50

    I used air conditioner compressor mounting bracket to lift the engine while tightening the chain on the engine lift.

    I am extremely safety minded so I never trust one device to hold up anything over 50 lbs.

    Used a wooden block on the AC compressor mounting bracket when jacking engine

    Place wooden blocks between the frame and engine mounts
    Last edited by shogun; 03-23-2021 at 09:48 AM.

  2. #2
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    May 2004
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    Default

    wow, thanks for that. I have to do this in the future too.

  3. #3
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    Apr 2006
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    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    If you can get it in the air dropping the front crossmember/suspension a bit is easier.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  4. #4
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    Default

    Yeah I read about the crossmember procedure but not real fond on poping ball joints and tie rod ends unless I have too. When I change the gasket on my 535i I will try the crossmember procedure and submit a writeup on that too.

  5. #5
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    May 2004
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    Japan
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    Default

    Joe, did you already change the gasket on your 535i?

  6. #6
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    Default Oh yes quite a while ago

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Joe, did you already change the gasket on your 535i?
    Yes i replaced the gasket some time back. Is a matter of fact we just replaced the whole engine about 2 weeks ago now. Had a lot of problems trying to replace the head and ended up stripping the head bolt holes in the block. Man was that frustrating. Found a 90 m30 with ~60,000 miles on it and used it for the replacement. All together it took my son and I 4 days including drilling out two of the exhaust studs that had broken off. Used helicoils.

    Did you have a suggestion when replacing the pan gasket?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Japan
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    Just wanted to know if you opted for the crossmember procedure and which one you finally found easier.
    Crossmember can sometimes stick and we once had a real problem when changing the upper oil pan on an E32 750 M70 engine, we could not get that thing to pop out.
    I found this in webarchive>M30 Oil Pump removal and rebuilding

    http://web.archive.org/web/200704020.../e34a/id5.html



    Pump removal...


    I used this technique by myself a couple of times on the street in order to expose and remove oil pump of m30 in e34:

    1 - Set the engine at TDC of cylinder #1
    2 - Dismount the exhaust by removing the hangers at the resonator and the muffler.
    3 - Drain the oil.
    4 - Disengage connectors for these sensors - oil pressure, idle control valve, coolant level.
    5 - Dismount coolant expansion tank and push away to the left.
    6 - Remove the plate that supported coolant expansion tank.
    7 - Remove top nuts from engine mounts.
    8 - Raise the car onto jackstands supporting at front mounting points.
    9 - Disconnect exhaust at transmission.
    10 - Remove the bolts that mount oil pan to transmission. Regular 8mm socket will do.
    11 - Remove 10mm bolts along the perimeter of oil pan.
    12 - Disengage the connector for oil level sender.
    13 - Disengage steering pump from its bracket and push away to the left.
    14 - Remove steering pump bracket.
    15 - Remove bottom nuts from engine mounts. KEEP the mounts in place.
    16 - Use the jack under front cross member to raise the car.
    17 - Remove jack stands, placing one to support the engine directly under the engine mounting BANK for the bracket of air conditioning compressor.
    18 - The jack stand should be extended about a foot and a half for sufficient room.
    19 - SLOWLY drop the car, observing placement of compressor bracket and coolant expansion tank. The engine should not move too much to the side as the car is lowered. Drop only much enough for the engine to stop moving with respect to the car. The jack must be under cross member supporting the car. Lift just a bit to make sure that the car's body does not recline on the engine BUT is fully supported by the jack.
    20 - With enough extension of jack stand the engine rises with respect to the car providing enough room to remove oil pan through minor maneuvering.
    21 - Withraw the pan.
    22 - Slowly raise the car using the jack at cross member. Watch for engagement of engine mounts with engine stands.
    23 - Remove jack stand, place both jack stands at front mounting points, and drop the car on them.
    24 - Undo the nut that holds oil pump sprocket, and slowly pull the sprocket off the rotor shaft.
    25 - Undo 3 bolts that secure oil pump to the engine, finalizing removal of the sprocket off the rotor shaft.
    Last edited by shogun; 09-16-2012 at 02:10 AM.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Stuck with the non-crossmember procedure. It helps to have the gasket protector. But either way it is a pain in the butt

  9. #9
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    Still can use this thread from 2011, today someone with an E34 535 asked me how to replace the M30 oil pan gasket, so I gave him this link. Thanks, Joe

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    65

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    Thanks for this very informative post.

    Today I was surprised when I found out, that most of these 10mm bolts holding the oil pan on the engine block were in fact loosen quite a bit. This way I could trace back a lower oil leak to its source. And even though the car is not used offroad or racing.
    My advice is to definitively check and tighten these bolts, especially those on the forward part of the pan. Quite possibly, leaks might often be associated with part of the engine IMO.

    Best wishes
    JAzz
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1989 E34 535i
    M30B35 six cylinder, single overhead camshaft, 3.43 L, multi-point fuel injection

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