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Thread: Need a DIY article for crankcase vent/oil separator replacement on a 2000 e39 528i

  1. #1
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    Default Need a DIY article for crankcase vent/oil separator replacement on a 2000 e39 528i

    Anyone know of a writeup for this procedure? Looks like are real pain
    Last edited by Kibokojoe; 11-11-2010 at 07:25 AM.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    If you live in a cold climate, the condensate that accumulates inside the seperator can freeze the valve shut or open causing the oil to: A. Either be sucked up into the valves, pumping it out through the exhaust in massive quanities, or B. Overpressurize the crankcase causing the valve cover to blow the gasket and pour oil all over the exhaust manifold. Either way, it's a mess, a huge mess. One of the remedies is a new designed insulated valve and dipstick return drain that is large enough to drain the milky substance back into the crankcase so it can have a chance to burn off. Short trips during the winter months only aggravate the situation. I'm almost a believer that the valve should be changed as a preventive maintenance issue because of the potential damage it can do. I've experienced both types of failures on an E39 and an E60. The cold weather kit is reasonable pricewise, until you add the dipstick, for some strange reason they want over $250 just for the modified dipstick tube. One BMW tech told me that using a wiper blade metal insert can be used to clear the muck from the drain section on the dipstick tube. It's about a 5 hour job, replacing the valve. Then there's clean up and plug changes. If the car suffered the latter type failure, then be prepared to take it out on a desolate road for about 30 minutes of hard driving to clear the oil from the exhaust. It will look like an extreme mosquito fogger. One thing is for sure, you won't have any tailgaters....Keep an eye on the oil fill cap, excessive condensation or a heavy coating of something that resembles a chocolate milkshake is a sign the valve is failing.
    Hope this helps,
    Jr

  4. #4
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    Exactly what I was looking for. Will tackle this Saturday.

  5. #5
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    So far only have oil leaking from cracked pipes.

  6. #6
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    On my daughters Z3, it sucked so much oil in through the intake that it caused hydrolock. I thought it was the starter motor and wasted time replacing that first.

    The new starter motor, after numerous tries, did turn the engine over, after a "pop" sound. Freaked me out. I got real lucky, did not bend or break anything, but it did run like that extreme mosquito fogger. That's how I finally figured out what happened. After I replace the Oil Separator, it took over half hour of hard running to clear up all that smoke, but it did go away finally.

    Simple, but painstaking job. Take your time.

    A Bimmer Nut for sure: '04 530im (current daily driver), '97 m3, '98 323is, '99 Z3, '01 740iL, '06 330cicm zhp, '02 R1150R, '69 r60, Owner/Operator of www.Bimmer.info and www.BimmerNut.com
    And I still maintain: '90 535im (sold to daughters best friend, one of my favorite bimmers), '92 525im (daughters other best friend now drives this one).

  7. #7
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    Purchased the winterized replacement kit from Bavauto. Will install tomorrow along with replacing the gasket on the oil filter mount and the valve cover gasket. Should take care of all the oil leaks. Sounds like the CCV is a bad design

  8. #8
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    Terrible design for cold climate short trip driving. I hear that BMW's new 6cyls have the CCV built into the valve cover. I have not seen one, but I also heard they have problems of their own. I have no details of such problems, but it's got to be better than this design cause it's in the engine and would get warmer faster. Condensation in the engine is simply a problem for all engines, but exacerbated by BMW's complex exterior design in our engines, and the lack of running that baby hot on short trips in cold climates.

    A habit I've gotten into is, I plan my oil changes right before it gets cold, before winter, to refresh the oil with new oil that does not have moisture buildup. Not sure it helps, but I feel better mentally.

    A Bimmer Nut for sure: '04 530im (current daily driver), '97 m3, '98 323is, '99 Z3, '01 740iL, '06 330cicm zhp, '02 R1150R, '69 r60, Owner/Operator of www.Bimmer.info and www.BimmerNut.com
    And I still maintain: '90 535im (sold to daughters best friend, one of my favorite bimmers), '92 525im (daughters other best friend now drives this one).

  9. #9
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    Holy cow.....started on this project and disassembled down to where I could see the electrical box with all of the wires coming out of it. I started chasing down wires and when I found one that snakes over the radiator/engine and it appears I would have to remove the radiator to get the wire out I said forget it. What a pain in the butt. What were the engineers thinking when they built this engine. I was afraid to go any further, everything seems to be brittle. Called my sister in law to give her the bad news. If it were my car I would do it and would replace everything I broke going in and out but it is my sister in laws. Think I will stick with my e34

  10. #10
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    Geez! What engines does have that CCV that has cold climate issues? Any in E34?

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