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Thread: Rust treatment for those north climent E34s.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Windy City
    Posts
    606

    Default Rust treatment for those north climent E34s.

    Just wondering if anyone had a preventive rust treatment done, especially under the doors where E34s have their problems. I recently pulled the bottom door moldings off to check out the condition and it didn't look good. So I purchased POR15 kit and all four new M-tech door moldings. I like to have the bottom of the doors treated before the rust gets out of control...
    RICK
    BMW 1995 525i (Alpine White)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Evanston, IL
    Posts
    443

    Default I did the POR-15 treatment 4 years ago

    But now I have too bite the bullet and get the door bottoms properly done which means sandblasting down to bare metal and then doing proper primer and paint. POR-15 works as a good stop gap but not as a final fix. At least like me you have an easy color to match! Mine is black. I will end up doing the hood as well since it has so many pits.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lexington, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,561

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick L View Post
    Just wondering if anyone had a preventive rust treatment done, especially under the doors where E34s have their problems. I recently pulled the bottom door moldings off to check out the condition and it didn't look good. So I purchased POR15 kit and all four new M-tech door moldings. I like to have the bottom of the doors treated before the rust gets out of control...
    No preventive treatment. However, I got an estimate for fixing my drivers door properly $625.00 The shop also would spray a rust inhibitor/preventor in the other doors. This is a restoration shop, not a insurance /dent shop/
    Thanks,

    1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    577

    Default

    I paid about $650 to have a shop sand and repaint the bottom thirds of all my doors and even still the rust came back after two years. Definitely going to use a different shop next time. I think the key is how the INSIDE bottom of the doors is treated. The door with the least rust (driver's door) is the one I dumped a bunch of rust converter into right after it was repainted.


    Quote Originally Posted by Russell View Post
    No preventive treatment. However, I got an estimate for fixing my drivers door properly $625.00 The shop also would spray a rust inhibitor/preventor in the other doors. This is a restoration shop, not a insurance /dent shop/

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,894

    Default

    Overhaulin TV show show how pro takes care of the rust... although extreme... is the proper way to take care of rust... It all begins with media blasting. I suppose if you get a Harbor Freight blaster and a good big compressor, you can do similar job.

    Vacuum all that media... filter it and reuse it... perhap running shop vac while you are blasting will recapture them.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    879

    Default

    I did this myself with por15 a couple of years ago and it is holding up extremely well except for one door which was already too far gone.


    Even this one is still holding on - the rust has barely spread through the por15 at all.
    I am very impressed it looks no worse than it did before and has suffered two winters here and will go for another one.

    Whatever you do don't get the oil treatment that stuff is disgusting and gets everywhere.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Windy City
    Posts
    606

    Default

    Wow! That's some nasty rust you got there! My car is no where near as bad; just slight under the the bottom M-tech moldings. I don't need to repaint. Looks like these bottom moldings hold and collect water and create rust... I'll be tackling this project this weekend. I'll post some photos.


    Quote Originally Posted by tim eh? View Post
    I did this myself with por15 a couple of years ago and it is holding up extremely well except for one door which was already too far gone.


    Even this one is still holding on - the rust has barely spread through the por15 at all.
    I am very impressed it looks no worse than it did before and has suffered two winters here and will go for another one.

    Whatever you do don't get the oil treatment that stuff is disgusting and gets everywhere.
    RICK
    BMW 1995 525i (Alpine White)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    4,243

    Default

    Periodic(or permanent) removal of those rust breeding moldings to clean out the grit that holds moisture.
    Maybe have a look at the moldings to see if there is a way to incorporate some drainage????
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    577

    Default

    Even without the lower trim pieces, the bottom edges of the doors rust faster than the rest of the car.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    Periodic(or permanent) removal of those rust breeding moldings to clean out the grit that holds moisture.
    Maybe have a look at the moldings to see if there is a way to incorporate some drainage????

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Windy City
    Posts
    606

    Default

    Permanent removal? Uh, I can't imagine my car without the bottom M-tech moldings... Maybe drill small holes on each corners and one in the middle?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    Periodic(or permanent) removal of those rust breeding moldings to clean out the grit that holds moisture.
    Maybe have a look at the moldings to see if there is a way to incorporate some drainage????
    RICK
    BMW 1995 525i (Alpine White)

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